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General Climbing Discussion

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Punks - glue hold. 26-Jun-2014 At 10:26:37 PM Dave J

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Hi Gerhard,
I did punks around the same time as you (94) but never tried it before the glue hold was installed. I always imagined trying to climb the route without the glue but, having spent a bit of time on it, its hard to imagine how this would be possible (or pleasant). Perhaps the climb would go without the hold but it is hard to imagine it ever being a great route after that...What is already a bouldery crux would become so extreme that the rest of the route would become irrelevant (which would be a shame).

As I understand it the glue was put there after the hold that was there crumbled away (which was possibly a chipped hold to replace an original bit rock that snapped in the first place... before Wolfgang ever tried it). Certainly by the time you took the glue off there wouldn't be much left. If you took away the glue you would have to do it assuming there was going to be nothing usable underneath.

If someone were able to climb the crux sequence without using the glue hold then I completely agree it would be the right thing to remove the glue (even if it turned the route into a one move wonder) but, until then, I feel the glue is probably best left where it is...there will be nothing underneath it but a mess.

Its unfortunate that the glue was put on top of the hold rather than nearby so now you would have to erase the current route to even see if there were an alternative (and the gluing up of the next hold was just a bizarre act).