Chockstone Forum

      Sponsored By
      ROCK
   HARDWARE

Chockstone Photography

Australian Landscape Prints

Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

Topic Date User

Hardest Australian Trad Onsight 28-Jul-2004 At 11:21:19 PM onsight

Message

Re defining “onsight”
On 28/07/2004 gfdonc wrote:
> I like the 'bottom up, no weighting
>pro' definition.

I agree, I think down-climbing is fine (it’s just not allowed in comps), and so is coming back another day. “No beta” is the main point. Chalks fine, fact of life really. (IMO)

Re Austs hardest:
Ben is a Welshman, so that might be stretching the definition of “Australian” a little bit… (if that’s what the question was).

On 28/07/2004 nmonteith wrote:
>Contra is a semi-sport route - with the crux protected by bolts.
Anyway, Ben did do this onsight - I do believe. I was talking w him about it last month and he said it was one of his best leads ever. He said placing a crucial cam is “blind” when onsight, and because he couldn’t get it in he was looking at ground-fall from 10-12 metres. He had little choice but to go on. Not something you’d expect on a sport route.

On 28/07/2004 HEX wrote:
> all I know is that it's called Cobwebs and it's about USA 5.12d ---
>go for it !" > Dude then climbs smoothly, confidently, all the way to the top, bearly
>stopping to place the occasional runner...

Is that Steve McClure you’re referring to?

> De Gualles Nose(Carrigan,Moorhead,1983), might be 'only' 23, but the
>height/exposure...

Yes, that’s a really good point. If that the one Dave Jones and Gordon Poultney repeated then I think they said it was run-out to buggery too. It's way up on my list of "impressive" (FA and the repeat).

HB surely must be a contender (not sure what route though). Monksy? Dave Jones? Pat is doing really great stuff...