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General Climbing Discussion

Topic Date User

Look at what you're clipping 6-May-2013 At 3:46:37 PM SydneyBattler

Message

Was on a university trip to Thompson's Point on the weekend and in a vain attempt at pushing grades jumped on a 28 in little Grease Cave. I forget the name of the climb and theCrag.com is not working for me at the moment, but it climbed through a short roof onto a short cruxy head wall.

I belayed my partner on the climb first, he got to the lip, messed around with some moves and came down. I then did the same but upon clipping the fixed biner that was on the lip I noticed that the gate's spring mechanism was broken and the gate was not closing properly.

I replaced it with a club biner and after a few attempts on the crux came down. I inspected the damaged biner and noticed that if the biner was hanging normally (with the gate's pivot on the bottom) the spring could actually catch in the hinge and spring the gate open, rather than closed. A less than ideal set up.

I must admit that I had already clipped the fixed biner and was falling on it repeatedly whilst attempting the crux moves. I only stopped to inspect the gear while I was resting. My partner did not even notice the defect.

So, take home message here seems to be, have a look at what you clip before you clip it. Don't blindly trust gear, even if you're going for that glorious and brave on sight attempt.