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What's the scariest lead that you've ever done? 19-Mar-2012 At 7:32:05 PM Olbert

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Mine was when I lead Janicepts. It upped my crack climbing by about three grades and upped my trad leading by a couple of grades. I had never weighted gear before - asides from bomber anchors - let alone fallen!

So I started out climbing and things were going ok - I was placing good gear (by my judgement). Except I was getting more pumped and more scared (my whole trad mindset up till now had been I'm not scared because I'm not going to fall, not I'm not scared because my gear will hold). In my mind I kept telling myself that I would be alright and to just keep going - you have to keep in mind I had never actually tested my own gear placements before.

By the time I got to the small alcove at about two-thirds height I was horrendously pumped and scared shitless. The "your gonna die" dialogue was now running through my head. As I hadn't placed anything for a metre or so I decided to place another piece - it took me a good minute or two to get the placement right - all the while I was sweating.

Even once I got it in, my fear had not dissipated - I was so scared I was nauseous. There was no chance of me doing the crimpy end to the route so I made the decision to rest on the rope. It was the most heart stopping moment of my life!

Fortunately the piece held and I did not die. However I was fcuking knackered, mentally and physically. I spent the next half an hour feeling like I was going to throw up, just from the fear.

I, however, did not lower to the ground - at the time nobody else in my group was confident enough to get my gear back - I waited till I felt I could go on and then proceeded to aid my way to the finish.

Not only was it a great feeling to finish the route and retrieve my gear but I learnt a shitload from the experience and very glad I had it.