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Le Souef Plateau, Mt Buffalo
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Climbs *** ** * Hardest Longest Rock Access
51 0 2 9 23 50m Granite Variable
Contributed By: Will Monks

The Castle   Push For The Summit

The Word: Only if you're out of ideas.
Sun/shade: Morning sun.
Wet weather options: No.
Style & Length of Climbs: 15-20m. Some routes have bolts but bring a rack.
Grades: 14-24

Park at what is obviously the carpark for the Cathedral. Walk away from the Cathedral, up the signposted path, for about 10mins until you reach the ridgeline. A decapitated sign indicates "Quiet Place" to the left, go right here along the main trail, 50m further the trail to the Sentinel breaks off R. Go down here, trending L (SE) at the Sentinel (taking a moment to suss the great line) for another 40m to where another sign points to the Castle (the guidebook map is quite misleading here). Follow this trail through more dense bush, down into a nice glade and around to the Castle. For this route, rack up when you have to start boulder hopping, as itís extensive and difficult.

* Rising Fast (Banglaís Sport Route) 20m 14
Nothing better than a good route to usher in the new year, the new decade, the new century, and the whole bloody millennium too! The start seems like a lot of effort after all the bloody rockhopping! In the end, itís not as bad as it seems, so just clip the bolt get on with it, a rest awaits soon after. A tricky and rather bold move then gains the obvious plate, so sling it and then laugh at how pathetic it is as a gear placement. Easily past the plate (though not so easy to avoid dislodging your sling), to a slightly insecure stance to clip the other bolt. From here the climbing is lovely slabbing, with enough holds to keep you happy. Belay off a big sling and a BB. Now, getting off is equal crux! Donít jump across the big gap, rather head L (SE), step easily onto the next boulder, then turn R and make a very committing large step (or small jump for shorties) across the void back onto the thin rib. Head L and sidle down next to the tree, then out L and down and around back under the scary step across. Carry on down to the ramp just beside the start of the route.

The Sentinel   Push For The Summit

The Word: A one route wonder.
The Crag Classic: West Face of The Sentinel (** 20)
Sun/shade: WFotS would get sun all day.
Wet weather options: Sit under the overhang on the south side.
Rock type: Granite
Available Grades; Best Grades: 20

Halfway up the walk to the Castle you'll pass this rather impressive balanced boulder. I really just wanted to put this photo up.

Access: Park at The Cathedral car park and walk E (away from the cathedral), following the path up the hill. The boulder is on the ridge.

Descent(s): Throw an end down to be attached to a tree then rap off the other side. There's apparently a "horn" of rock on top which is fairly dubious to rap off.

Further Reading:
Mt Buffalo, A Rockclimbers Guide - A climbing guide book, edited by Jeremy Boreham and David Breeton and available from local climbing shops, or the VCC.
Wills Climbing Page - Details on The Castle & The Sentinel.

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