Contributed By: Will Monks
|Le Souef Plateau, Mt Buffalo
[ Back |
The Word: Only if you're out
Sun/shade: Morning sun.
Wet weather options: No.
Style & Length of Climbs: 15-20m. Some routes have bolts but
bring a rack.
Park at what is obviously the carpark for the
Cathedral. Walk away from the Cathedral, up the signposted path, for about
10mins until you reach the ridgeline. A decapitated sign indicates "Quiet
Place" to the left, go right here along the main trail, 50m further the
trail to the Sentinel breaks off R. Go down here, trending L (SE) at the
Sentinel (taking a moment to suss the great line) for another 40m to where
another sign points to the Castle (the guidebook map is quite misleading
here). Follow this trail through more dense bush, down into a nice glade
and around to the Castle. For this route, rack up when you have to start
boulder hopping, as itís extensive and difficult.
* Rising Fast (Banglaís Sport Route) 20m 14
Nothing better than a good route to usher in the new year, the new decade,
the new century, and the whole bloody millennium too! The start seems like
a lot of effort after all the bloody rockhopping! In the end, itís not as
bad as it seems, so just clip the bolt get on with it, a rest awaits soon
after. A tricky and rather bold move then gains the obvious plate, so
sling it and then laugh at how pathetic it is as a gear placement. Easily
past the plate (though not so easy to avoid dislodging your sling), to a
slightly insecure stance to clip the other bolt. From here the climbing is
lovely slabbing, with enough holds to keep you happy. Belay off a big
sling and a BB. Now, getting off is equal crux! Donít jump across the big
gap, rather head L (SE), step easily onto the next boulder, then turn R
and make a very committing large step (or small jump for shorties) across
the void back onto the thin rib. Head L and sidle down next to the tree,
then out L and down and around back under the scary step across. Carry on
down to the ramp just beside the start of the route.
The Word: A one route wonder.
The Crag Classic: West Face of The Sentinel (**
Sun/shade: WFotS would get sun all day.
Wet weather options: Sit under the overhang on the south
Rock type: Granite
Available Grades; Best Grades: 20
Halfway up the walk to the Castle you'll pass this
rather impressive balanced boulder. I really just wanted to put this photo
Access: Park at The Cathedral car park
and walk E (away from the cathedral), following the path up the hill. The
boulder is on the ridge.
Descent(s): Throw an end down to be
attached to a tree then rap off the other side. There's apparently a
"horn" of rock on top which is fairly dubious to rap off.
Buffalo, A Rockclimbers Guide - A climbing guide book, edited by
Jeremy Boreham and David Breeton and available from local
climbing shops, or the VCC.
Climbing Page - Details on The Castle &
| Guide | Gallery |
Tech Tips | Articles |
Reviews | Dictionary |
Forum | Links |
About | Search
Please read the full disclaimer before using any information contained on these pages.
All text, images and video on this site are copyright. Unauthorised use is strictly prohibited.