Rock Climbing at Kyneton Quarry, Victoria, Australia

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Kyneton Quarry
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						Quick Stats
Climbs	*******	**	*	Hardest	Longest	Rock	Access
3	0	0	0	24	12m	Basalt	2 Min

Welcome to the choss pile! It's unclear exactly why anyone would bother with this little area when the quality granite of Black Hill is so close by. There are only three routes. Two are bolted, while the third (the grade 19), is a trad line with more loose rock than stable. To access the quarry head out of Kyneton on Pipers Creek road for about 1.1km, then turn down Baynton road for another 2.8km until you find a gate on your right just before a small rise in the road. (See: approach map).

From your initial view of the quarry (pictured right), you'll find the very over graded 24 "Black Anarchy" (more like 20/21) taking the blackish arête on the left with fixed chain links bolted to the rock every few feet up to double bolts with chains to lower off (pictured below). The chossy grade 19 "Russian Roulette" heads up to the tree in the middle of the cliff. The thin face climbing of "Copperhead Road", past four carrot bolts is the grade 22 on the right of the wall, which begins at the graffiti.

Above: Kent leading "Black Anarchy", the grade 24 (more like 20/21) bolted arête climb. See the gallery page for the full sequence. Beware this route contains a fractured, TV sized, semi-detached block just below and right of the chains, which you'll need to haul on. There's a couple of reachy moves, and it gets pumpy quick, but its actually rather fun, at least as the second.

Above Left: Ben investigating the chossy 10m grade 19 trad line "Russian Roulette" - the name says it all. Above Middle: Kent bouldering on the 12m grade 22, thin face climbing on the right of the cliff called "Copperhead Road". Above Right: Close up of "Copperhead Road".

Climbs At The Kyneton Quarry

Name	Height	Grade	Stars
Black Anarchy	10	24
Russian Roulette	10	19
Copperhead Road	12	22

Further Reading:
Northwest Victoria, A Rockclimbers Guide - A climbing guide book, edited by Chris Watson, Bill Andrews and Michael Hampton and available from local climbing shops, or the VCC.