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Chockstone Forum - Gear Lust / Lost & Found

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Author
Prusik knot idea
TimP
24-Jan-2020
11:11:59 AM
I've been thinking a lot about Prusik loops and how to make them less cumbersome. Haven't tried any of the new sewn ones, anyone use them?
Ideally a loop without a join would be cool ó yet to solve how to weave the sheath though!
Came up with this that seems easier to handle to make a 3-wrap Prusik, any thoughts?
Forms two loops with 3 fishermans type knots



mistergribble
24-Jan-2020
1:15:39 PM
Have you ever used a Bachmann knot ?
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bachmann_knot
They're a lot easier to move up and down a rope that a trad prussik, otherwise Mister Petzl can sell you any number of his renown aluminium devices

IdratherbeclimbingM9
24-Jan-2020
2:00:17 PM
On 24-Jan-2020 TimP wrote:
>I've been thinking a lot about Prusik loops and how to make them less cumbersome.
Thinner cord!
Heh, heh, heh.

>Haven't tried any of the new sewn ones, anyone use them?
Yep, theyíre called slings!... and actually work in some prusik-style knots using more wraps, however I have found them fiddly to use, so regard them as ascension devices of last resort.

>Ideally a loop without a join would be cool ó yet to solve how to weave
>the sheath though!
>Came up with this that seems easier to handle to make a 3-wrap Prusik,
>any thoughts?
>Forms two loops with 3 fishermans type knots
>
Looks like a cool knot! ... Though to what end use do you envisage itís purpose?
Any time I have ever required a captive (tied off) loop like that, itís usually been a much smaller diameter, ie just big enough to take the krab (or mallion), in personalised ascension systems to eliminate slack and enhance efficiency of movement.

If itís simply to replace a conventional prusik loop then I regard it as overkill, though may have merit in self rescuing scenarios as an extension device?

Like MrG, I updated to the wondrous newfangled aluminium devices as first choice items!
TimP
24-Jan-2020
3:18:17 PM
Never tried the Bachmann MrG, it looks interesting, will give it a go.

M9 I'm thinking mainly abseil backup with the 3-wrap Prusik. We also used them in crevasse rescue on the NZ alpine course I just did (escaping belay and the faller ascending). We were lucky to have a supper experienced guide but he was pretty old-school!

Watching people (and myself) fumble with the standard tied loop Prusik ó trying to lay it up smooth and fast with gloves on prompted this idea. The big loop coming out of the knot parallel seems to make it easier to get the 3 wraps laid in order and keeps the knot in the right spot.

This loop knot is possibly too complicated to visually check, really just a thought experiment and yes, outdone by the beautifully engineered new devices.

Speaking of newfangled devices on the course I saw a Tibloc being used as progress capture in a hauling system: rotating over the rope as it passed through an oval crab at the anchor. I hadn't seen that before, pretty neat.
PeterW
24-Jan-2020
3:24:16 PM
On 24-Jan-2020 TimP wrote:
>Speaking of newfangled devices on the course I saw a Tibloc being used
>as progress capture in a hauling system:

Perhaps we could try it with my Tiblocs when we get together next?

IdratherbeclimbingM9
27-Jan-2020
6:09:54 PM
On 24-Jan-2020 mistergribble wrote:
>Have you ever used a Bachmann knot ?
>https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bachmann_knot
>They're a lot easier to move up and down a rope that a trad prussik, otherwise
>Mister Petzl can sell you any number of his renown aluminium devices

Adding to MrG's post...
There are lots of similar; plus variations on the themes that aren't listed in the link below!

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_friction_hitch_knots


On 24-Jan-2020 TimP wrote:
>Never tried the Bachmann MrG, it looks interesting, will give it a go.
>
>M9 I'm thinking mainly abseil backup with the 3-wrap Prusik.

Variation on the Bachmann theme that I use for that purpose, is to not include the krab inside the friction loops, ie simply hold a finger in the loop and spin the krab around the standing part of the rope then clip the krab back into the loop where your finger is.

Both have pro's and con's with basically the krab being able to loosen tension easily after the friction hitch load is released (good for ascending!), though for abseiling I like the fast spin-it-around-the-rope method, because the abseil brake hand holds the loops loosely stopping ropeburn but not inhibiting it locking-on if let go!

(snip)
>Speaking of newfangled devices on the course I saw a Tibloc being used
>as progress capture in a hauling system: rotating over the rope as it passed
>through an oval crab at the anchor. I hadn't seen that before, pretty neat.

I know they have also been used as running 'belays' in solo climbing... not that I'd recommend this due to possible rope sheath damage in a significant fall.
kieranl
27-Jan-2020
6:55:24 PM
I use manufactured Sterling prusiks and they're so much easier to tie and untie. Life's too short to muck around with double fisherman knots.

There are 7 messages in this topic.

 

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