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Rave About Your Rack Please do not post retail SPAM.

Author

Advice for rack additions

widewetandslippery

18-Mar-2012
5:08:36 PM

Yarndi,goon, slab of tinnies, thick skin and a tent peg mallet; oh and those rp things in the non popular large sizes.

Wendy

18-Mar-2012
6:26:13 PM

I expect the double ropes will be the most helpful new thing then. a bog standard rack will go a long way on most routes at araps or the gramps, double up on common sizes of nuts and cams, get some more draws and grab a rp. micro cam and big cam or 2. Happy as larry.


Nova

18-Mar-2012
7:12:52 PM

OK sounds good, got BD size #0 #3 and #4 cams from Steve today as well as a #4 and #5 RP (no 0,1,2 or 3 left!) and a full set of DMM Walnuts. Also got some more slings quick draws and krabs. Cant wait for my foot to heal so i can get back too it!


Macciza

18-Mar-2012
9:02:06 PM

Advice for rack addition?

Make sure it adds up to LESS than it really is . . .
You won't feel as guilty for having so much gear, "I don't have 30 cams, it's more like 20, . . .
It's easier to convince yourself you need more, " I've only really got 15 so I can buy 10 more (and then you'll have 50, well 40) . . .
Your more likely to end up with some of your mates at the ned of the day, " Nah mate only got my 12 cams here, did you drop one . . .

Seriously, get the one thing that you probably don't need and would not actually pay for, then accidentally buy it; because inevitably you are going to need the one thing that you don't actually have, so plan ahead and be prepared . . .


wallwombat

18-Mar-2012
10:50:15 PM

Why don't you call yourself something that doesn't sound like a paranoids pin number?

We are all friends here.

rightarmbad

18-Mar-2012
11:16:12 PM

I imagine his name is Ben Fish.
And we now probably know his secret password for most things.


Nova

18-Mar-2012
11:45:32 PM

On 18/03/2012 rightarmbad wrote:
>I imagine his name is Ben Fish.
>And we now probably know his secret password for most things.

Yes and no :P Ben Fisher to be specific :D

EvDog

19-Mar-2012
1:08:23 PM

I got 2 omega pacific tri cams and they are rad, admittedly your only ever going to put them somewhere you could have put regular gear, but that is precisely the point. The two sizes of link cam I carry do indeed fit into most normal gear placements meaning I can back up 2/3’s of my rack with just 2 pieces of gear instead of having doubles/triples of all the nut, hex and cam sizes I use most frequently. They are easy to place and require less guessing at sizes for those new to cams. Totally recommend them, great bit of kit.

bones

19-Mar-2012
1:14:01 PM

On 19/03/2012 EvDog wrote:
>I got 2 omega pacific tri cams and they are rad....They are easy to place and require
>less guessing at sizes for those new to cams. Totally recommend them, great
>bit of kit.

Can anyone else comment on this? I've heard they are difficult to place correctly, and had stories of them walking a long way.....

Olbert

19-Mar-2012
1:27:12 PM

On 19/03/2012 EvDog wrote:
>I got 2 omega pacific tri cams and they are rad, admittedly your only ever
>going to put them somewhere you could have put regular gear, but that is
>precisely the point. The two sizes of link cam I carry do indeed fit into
>most normal gear placements meaning I can back up 2/3’s of my rack with
>just 2 pieces of gear instead of having doubles/triples of all the nut,
>hex and cam sizes I use most frequently. They are easy to place and require
>less guessing at sizes for those new to cams. Totally recommend them, great
>bit of kit.

No idea about the tricams but on the link cams:

I dont like them. They seem flimsy and do not inspire confidence. On my five month trip to the States and Canada (read shitloads of trad) I placed our only link cam < 10 times.

gfdonc

19-Mar-2012
2:43:29 PM

I like mine, but I agree the larger number of moving parts is sometimes a concern.

To mitigate this:
1. I don't own or use the smallest size
2. I avoid placing them in horizontals or where there would be additional loading.

I only leave them behind when I'm fairly confident about being able to have and place the right sizes and to drop some weight.

anthonycuskelly

19-Mar-2012
4:52:15 PM

Nice additions, that'll get you up most things to the high teens at Araps (I can't comment past that point).


skink

19-Mar-2012
6:45:34 PM

On 18/03/2012 83nf15h wrote:
>OK sounds good, got BD size #0 #3 and #4 cams from Steve today as well
>as a #4 and #5 RP (no 0,1,2 or 3 left!) and a full set of DMM Walnuts.
>Also got some more slings quick draws and krabs. Cant wait for my foot
>to heal so i can get back too it!

You really ought to have a microcam or two, or is the #0 in the above list the green C3? If so, the red C3 (#1) would be good to have also.


Nova

19-Mar-2012
9:50:25 PM

>You really ought to have a microcam or two, or is the #0 in the above
>list the green C3? If so, the red C3 (#1) would be good to have also.

Yeah it is the green C3, I also found someone that had the RP 0,1,2 and 3 so i now have the full set.

When talking to Steve he was saying he is not sure that they will be getting any more RP's so im glad i get them when i did!

I have mentioned to the girlfriend that the micro cams may be a good gift idea so i will see how that goes :P I dont think the bank account can take any more gear for the month! Guess that comes with buying a house at 19 :/


skink

20-Mar-2012
6:09:07 PM

On 19/03/2012 83nf15h wrote:
>When talking to Steve he was saying he is not sure that they will be getting
>any more RP's so im glad i get them when i did!

DMM make 'em now - http://dmmclimbing.com/products/brass-imps/

Tho doesn't look like they do the zero


Nova

21-Mar-2012
12:54:53 AM

Was looking around at random climbing sites today and found this fall factor tool. Another tool may be mentioned on the site and I'm guessing allot of people here don't need it but thought it may still be of interest to some:

http://www.myoan.net/climbart/climbforcecal.html

Wendy

21-Mar-2012
9:38:27 AM

On 19/03/2012 Olbert wrote:

>
>No idea about the tricams but on the link cams:
>
>I dont like them. They seem flimsy and do not inspire confidence. On
>my five month trip to the States and Canada (read shitloads of trad) I
>placed our only link cam < 10 times.

I love my link cams. I bought one a few years ago to see how i liked it, closely followed by the rest of the set, then I got excited and got doubles. I carry them up almost everything. Place them heaps. Have even fallen on them. Don't place them as Neil did when he exploded his and they are fine. Extending them can be a good idea as they can walk into deep cracks otherwise.


IdratherbeclimbingM9

21-Mar-2012
9:59:55 AM

On 19/03/2012 83nf15h wrote:
>I also found someone that had the RP 0,1,2 and 3 so i now have the full set.

If you want to use your small RPs in any place where they are seriously needed, then you actually need doubles (or more), of the small sizes (particularly 0,1,&2) ...
This is because they are generally not good for falls of significance due being more like bodyweight-only placements.
If ever I am free climbing and have a need to place 'one', I back it up with more (sometimes equalised), to give some peace of mind when leading above same...

On 21/03/2012 Wendy wrote:
>On 19/03/2012 Olbert wrote:
>
>>
>>No idea about the tricams but on the link cams:
>>
>>I dont like them. They seem flimsy and do not inspire confidence. On
>>my five month trip to the States and Canada (read shitloads of trad)
>I
>>placed our only link cam < 10 times.
>
>I love my link cams. I bought one a few years ago to see how i liked
>it, closely followed by the rest of the set, then I got excited and got
>doubles. I carry them up almost everything. Place them heaps. Have even
>fallen on them. Don't place them as Neil did when he exploded his and they
>are fine. Extending them can be a good idea as they can walk into deep
>cracks otherwise.

I tend to agree with Wendy and like the link cams particularly in the red and gold sizes. I have also fallen on the red one and it held well. The smaller sizes don't inspire a lot of confidence when I read about others breaking them.
I don't think they 'walk' any more than other slcd's, and a medium length (or longer), sling on slcd's certainly helps prevent any of them doing the walk-trick.

Wendy

21-Mar-2012
10:22:13 AM

yeah, but they can walk in a lot further because they go so small!

There are 39 messages in this topic.