On 9/06/2011 simey wrote:
>On 9/06/2011 useful wrote:
>>you miss the point. It's like Chopper Read coming out and actually fessing
>up to looking and behaving like Ned Flanders in real life.
>And what was worse was the fact that when climbing together and conversation
>turned to Chockstone, Damo actually expressed concern about hurting people's
>The modus operandi for ODH is to simply express an opinion and turn the
>volume up to 10 for a bit of entertainment value - which works fine for
>most folk who can handle a bit of robust internet debate, but Damo was
>concerned about a few folk who might have taken his comments a bit too
>personally and lost confidence as a result.
>I wasn't impressed with all this nicey-nice talk and told him off.
Don't worry simey I'll continue to be a prick even when the other's aren't.
Yep ODH is a fraud......next he'll be taking his Vegemite buddies to Wingello for the book of Australia greatest climbs....its like Santa Claus has died all over again....thank god we still have the Easter bunny.
ODH is the 5yr old on the knoll. You all saw him wearing that baby bandicoot buggerer hat. Thats what he does. Buggers bandicoots and wanders up stream to boast about it at the Tuggeranong Mall. None of you have seen his chipped overbolted routes with names painted at the base in the ACT either.
It's not that amazing that the gear held. There is a lot of rope out to absorb the fall, the cam is orientated for the fall and being placed in granite means there is less chance of it slipping. You still wouldn't want to rely on it as the only piece between you and the deck though (which it isn't).
On 15/06/2011 ajfclark wrote:
>On 15/06/2011 pecheur wrote:
>>Yeah I'm pretty surprised one lobe held him too.
>It's hard to see in the video because it's not quite clear enough, but
>I think all three lobes are in contact with the rock:
>It's also a 000 so it's only rated to 4kN.
Argh, people that change posts whilst I'm replying :P
With a better look it does appear that that second lobe is at least partially wedged, that makes a lot more sense. I was thinking if it was just one lobe, even if the third lobe as touching the rock, the cam would just twist so there would be no camming forcing applied by the third (or second) lobe. With the second one being in, it can't do that, though the torque is being completely carried by the horizontal shaft of the head, cool.
On 2/07/2011 DangerLaef wrote:
>Chis Turner climbs "The Fear" on Sydney's North Head, 1992.
>Grade 17, considered scarier than climbs twice it's grade, at a time when
>their were no climbs twice it's grade.
A great reminder that Robin Hood is not the only place for men in tights.