Im not renowned for my gear spotting ability, bit in the bit where she says "I really need some gear here" or whatever isnt her right hand up to mid fingers in a long crack? Ahh, armchair leading, the purest of all sporting pursuits. Anyway, im curious from you guys who have done the thing.
Well, I havent done the climb either but Im guessing that since she traversed out so far that any gear in that slot would have caused much rope drag. It also would have had to be quite multi-directional if it was gonna both hold a fall and not get pulled out when she moved above it.
On 14/10/2010 ambyeok wrote:
>to mid fingers in a long crack? Ahh, armchair leading, the purest of all
>sporting pursuits. Anyway, im curious from you guys who have done the thing.
When I led it I stuck a wire up high then a #4 cam near the start of the traverse.
I went across the traverse then back and pulled the cam out. On the distorted wide angle you can't really tell, but that bit of gear she has clipped is (or should have been) at least 2m above the traverse line so for the crux move you're really toproped.
After the traverse you can get a couple of wires in, there's an old pin there then a smallish cam in a horizontal as you start to move up. So plenty of options if she'd bothered, but they're not practical options on one rope! In other words she would have been avoiding placing anything due to potential rope drag.
yeah that is a great vid. there is some gear near where she says i need some gear but you need doubles to use it. A friend of mine took the fall going up to get to the crack again. Unfortunately he hit is ankle on one of the butt cheeks below which ended our climbing trip early.
Black Diamond sponsored Chuck Fryberger's climing film, Core. As part of the deal, we asked Chuck to put together a behind the scenes "making of" video. What we got was this: a hilarious look behind the curtain at the kooks and quirks that get involved with climbing films.
On 14/10/2010 ajfclark wrote:
>This is a little odd:
>Diamond sponsored Chuck Fryberger's climing film, Core. As part of the
>deal, we asked Chuck to put together a behind the scenes "making of" video.
>What we got was this: a hilarious look behind the curtain at the kooks
>and quirks that get involved with climbing films.
This one doesnt make the cut of "Best Climbing Video's"
On 14/10/2010 Olbert wrote:
>On 14/10/2010 ajfclark wrote:
>>I agree that this video wasn't one of the best but I did laugh a little.
>>On a different note, what do the videos own?
>Pedantic punctuation people
Yeah, so how IS the editing going on your thesis due next week, Ollie? ;)