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Chockstone Forum - Find Climbers

Find Climbers In Your Area

Author
Viccos off to Nowra 3rd - 12th Oct

..::- Chris -::..
24-Sep-2003
10:55:06 AM
There's a crag I know,
Where you don't get woken up in the morning by clinging of hex's,
Where bashing you knuckles against a rock trying to get gear out is non existent,
Where you don't need a second,
Where you can lead 10-15 routes in a day,
Where your pack is around 15 kg lighter than normal,
and the walk in, is non existent,
A place where shinning ring bolts can be seen as far as the eye can see,
A place where you can clip 3 bolts from the one stance (no not Van Diemans land)
A place where dogging a climb and working it, is a part of the culture,
A place where you can climb a 5m route and still call it a climb,
Thats right folks
NOWRA !!! ; P

There is a clan of us going up from the 3rd Oct (arrive sometime around 3am 4th (yeah i know but we never learn...) we do have room for 1 - 2 others, to share fuel and company for the very enjoyable 9hr drive up, Or alternatively if there are people who want to make their own way up and just want someone to show them the around the area, do some climbing, hang out, etc etc.... We have around 7ish people going up climbing various grades.

Anyways if anyone is interested (must have own gear) leave me a post.
Cheers
Chris : )
Dalai
24-Sep-2003
11:05:50 AM
I'm jealous!! For anyone who hasn't been there, take up Chris's offer. You won't be disappointed.

Cheers Martin

..::- Chris -::..
24-Sep-2003
12:53:46 PM
Martin,
Cheers mate, be good to have you along for the trip, seen you in a few video's. We do need someone who can climb as hard as you, apart from solving all the crux moves for us, it's always good to have someone who can put the draws up and brush the holds, on thoses climbs where cliping and placing the draws makes the route twice as hard !!!! ... hehehe ; P

Anyways mate there's plenty of room if you can get the time off work.
Cheers
Chris.
Dalai
24-Sep-2003
1:10:27 PM
Chris,
thanks for the offer - if only I could just pack and go. But unfortunately/fortunately I am now part of mainstream society (spent enough years avoiding resposibility) and won't be able to come along. Don't know about being a draw monkey anymore, but having gained weight since my climbing days I would make a suitable belay slave...
Enjoy your trip.
bmblydad
24-Sep-2003
8:15:10 PM
We are arriving 29th Sept leaving on the 4th Oct, will miss you by a day, but thanks for the tips earlier

Malcolm

Hawkman
25-Sep-2003
9:58:56 AM
be prepared for hot weather. its been roasting up here lately and nowra has been very spoogy.

have fun though

might even see you down there one day

steve
Steve M
25-Sep-2003
10:30:10 AM
You might want to replace that 15kg of trad gear with 15kg of chalk. You victorians will be sweating up a storm in the NSW sun and humidity.

..::- Chris -::..
25-Sep-2003
10:42:58 AM
Malcom, you going home on the sat ?? surely not, fit one more sat night in mate, it's such a long drive.... anyways have fun and stay safe...

Steve: Might see you up there, I'll be the one swearing as i yank on the draw on something thats about 10 grades to hard for me.....

Steve m: Yeah it will be good to get some sun, Once we get into Albury we can take our thermal gear off, turn the AC on, remove the snow chains from the cars and I get changed into my Sydney cloths (board shorts and thongs (flip flops to non aussie's) hehehehe...

Yeah I'm look forward to sport climbing, I've been training really hard for it (actually my tendon is starting to hurt today, went a bit silly last night, not looking forward to the heat, looking forward to all you can eat at the ex-servicemens club and do catch up with the guy who owns the animal park, his a cool dude.....

Hawkman
25-Sep-2003
12:00:43 PM
so what is on your tick list

..::- Chris -::..
25-Sep-2003
12:24:25 PM
Some that I'm close too and need to finish.
Trigger Nigger
Wham Bam thankyou
Enter Sandman *if i can be bothered, fun but allot of crap getting to it, cleaning it)
Inflatey Katie

I'll do all the usual classics at Thompsons Point (Esp betty blue area)

and if I'm feeling super strong can't remember what it's called, the climb
thats on the cover of the new guide....
I've looked at it a few times, climb Looks good, just don't like the idea of
Batman starts, but the moves look great although it's around that manky
cave, where mossie's and other creatures live.....and i defenitly wouldn't be
onsighting it, so it would mean hanging out at that cave for a day or two
Don't know anyone thats done it, I suppose the holds and
photo are my inspiration... do you know anyone thats been on it ??

Actually my tendon is really starting to hurt , so maybe spending the week at hospital rocks..... DOH !!! small sharp, underclings are "ALL BAD"
Dalai
25-Sep-2003
12:40:13 PM
Climb in question Evil E - The hood. Got the FA belay tick plus been on it. Really good climb.
White Trash or Top One Thommo are better climbs for the same grade in the grease cave.
Hard Candy at PC is stellar.

Hawkman
25-Sep-2003
12:55:57 PM
i heard someone say they thought evil E maybe a soft touch. could well be wrong though.

theres are a fair few new routes around the place at nowra since the last guide. some good some not so good. a couple of 27's at betty blue area which a meant to be pretty good to. one awaits a second ascent.


..::- Chris -::..
25-Sep-2003
1:12:43 PM
Dalai:
Not sure if i've got the pump required for Top One Tommo (acutally positive i don't) though from what i've heard none of the moves are all that difficult, just pump pump pump, although HB told me (a long time ago) he onsighted it and also found a no hands rest...cleaning is a problem too if i'm not to tick it in one day, don't trust leaving my draws up, not even on that....

Steve: Soft touch, now thats what i like to hear !!! Is there a PDF with an update you can just add to the guide book ??? (haven't looked, but assume you'd have an idea off the top of your head..)
The climb you mentioned is in BB area, well if it's down near still life, it's probably a Stone roses style, type climb (thin face) which doesn't suite my 95kg butt, however if it's up in the speed boat w@nkers area might be more my style....

Also my girlfriend is going up, she's been seconding outdoors for a while and is getting stronger by the minute, is there a really well bolted first lead (under 15??) the lower the grade the better and the closer the bolts the better...

Hawkman
25-Sep-2003
2:28:52 PM
there is a bit of info on rebolting.com go to the database on the main page not the forum. there is a lot more stuff that is not there though. the ones at bb area are

2nd pitch of tickled pink. has the unfortunate joy of having to do tickled pink (hardest 25 in the world)

the other is just around the corner fro still life and is probably like SR so, as you say, not your style.

as for good beginner leads.

anything on the walkdown walls is well bolted and low grades. there is a 11 (lucifer)there with bolts all the way and a 15 to the right of it that gets slabby. anything at hospital rocks is also a good start and there are a couple of new routes there too on a separate block.

send me an email if you want more details

id like to get down there next week as there is some unfinished buisness and the weather is getting increasingly bad at nowra

steve

Joe
26-Sep-2003
8:20:54 PM
I don't think Evil E is soft touch. The continuation to Tickled Pink looks nails...

There are 15 messages in this topic.

 

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