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VIC Arapiles The Pharos (General) Front Wall [ Arapiles Guide | Arapiles Images ]

Author

Traverse line above Trinity Wall?

gfdonc

7-Nov-2008
10:13:42 AM

I tried Trinity Wall last weekend. We did pitch 1 of Oceanoid then I made my way up to the horizontal 'shelf' that is my normal step-over route for Oceanoid and kept going .. this disappears around the corner in an exciting position but isn't the line that Trinity Wall takes, which is lower down.
I got most of the way to Aftermath before realising I wasn't on the right line, so reversed it, climbed down a couple of metres, then headed right again. This route matches the photo in the new guide.

The higher line is well chalked, but not marked on the guide, anyone know what this is? It runs above Trinity Wall but below Close to the Edge.

simey

7-Nov-2008
10:16:59 AM

This line has been climbed before other parties. In the new guide we used part of this traverse (but going R to L) as a more independant finish for Atlantis.

gfdonc

7-Nov-2008
12:34:30 PM

Curious - what was it originally written up as?
How hard is it to get all the way into Aftermath (where Trinity Wall comes up)?

simey

7-Nov-2008
3:16:34 PM

It was never written up. I just recall a conversation with someone who got off route and ended up on that line. When Glenn and I did the topo to that part of the world we knew that weakness existed and decided it would be a better way for Atlantis to go. The following weekend I got Matt Rawlinson to lead Atlantis (23) and follow that traverse from R to L before finishing as for The Bradford Lads. I didn't climb the route (I just belayed) but Matt said the climbing wasn't as difficult as the start of Atlantis (Matt fell off the start of Atlantis). I think he said the grade at the traverse was around 21/22?

Eduardo Slabofvic

7-Nov-2008
3:47:32 PM

I must get around to writing a guide book one day, that way not only can I decide what grade something
is, I can also decide where it goes without actually climbing it.

IdratherbeclimbingM9

7-Nov-2008
3:50:49 PM

Nothing to stop you submitting climbs written up any way you want them to go now?

... ~> Just don't put a title heading on them like 'historical section only'.

Heh, heh, heh.

gfdonc

7-Nov-2008
4:02:31 PM

Hmm .. more rewriting of the history books perhaps?

A query: Jim Thomas was listed on the FA of Trinity Wall in earlier guides but the current guidebook has a different team. With respect: was this an editorial oversight or a purposeful correction?

I can't check now, but I think both the prior Select guide and the Carrigan guide has him listed, making me doubt someone has come forward with information 20+ years later.

I did climb a bit with Jim in the 80's. We managed to get my car bogged on the way to the Far Northern Group, back in the days when it used to rain ...

Chuck Norris

7-Nov-2008
4:08:33 PM

Chris shepherd and Jim Thomas are listed as the FA party in the KC guide.

simey

7-Nov-2008
4:38:41 PM

On 7/11/2008 Eduardo Slabofvic wrote:
>I must get around to writing a guide book one day, that way not only can I decide what grade something is, I can also decide where it goes without actually climbing it.

Eduardo, you should team up with Hero and M9 to produce a guidebook. I reckon it would be a winner.

IdratherbeclimbingM9

7-Nov-2008
4:44:18 PM

I wouldn't buy it if it did not have a history section in it.
... Besides, I heard the market was already saturated, so I'm gonna open a cafe in Nati instead.

Eduardo Slabofvic

7-Nov-2008
7:09:18 PM

On 7/11/2008 simey wrote:
> I reckon it would be a winner.

I'll get you to come in and advise me on all the variant finishes.

kieranl

7-Nov-2008
10:09:34 PM

Richard Curtis and I did some of that traverse line back in the early eighties. We were going to do Close to the Edge but Richard cut out right a bit too low. I can't remember how far across we went before going up into Close To The Edge. I don't think we were the first party to do that either - there may have been chalk on it but I can't remember too much about being too busy trying to avoid the big swing into space.

hero

7-Nov-2008
11:37:09 PM

Simey, you should stick to self-aggrandizement, sarcasm is not your forte.

simey

8-Nov-2008
11:02:42 AM

On 7/11/2008 IdratherbeclimbingM9 wrote:
>I wouldn't buy it if it did not have a history section in it.
>... Besides, I heard the market was already saturated...

The market saturated? Not a chance. The punters are crying out for a guidebook to Hero and Eduardo's additional 1000 routes that didn't make the latest guide. It is sure to sell... I know at least two people who will buy it.

WM

8-Nov-2008
4:07:57 PM

Immaculate timing Simey - I just finished entering all hero's (and friends) Araps routes into ACA (which was nowhere near 1000 by the way).

however ACA does now cover over 1000 Araps routes. Only ~1500 to go.

simey

8-Nov-2008
5:26:53 PM

On 8/11/2008 WM wrote:
>Immaculate timing Simey - I just finished entering all hero's (and friends)
>Araps routes into ACA...

Top job. I hope your keyboard didn't get worn out from having to punch in all those stars (for each route).

Eduardo Slabofvic

8-Nov-2008
5:41:30 PM

On 25/09/2008 gtempest wrote:
>On 25/09/2008 Eduardo Slabofvic wrote:
>>> ...... and it's Araps, where even the bad routes are pretty good.
>
>Which pretty much says it all.

There are 17 messages in this topic.