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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

Area Location Sub Location Crag Links
All NSW (General) (General) (General)  

Boomerang Beach
10:51:20 AM
Its south of Forster NSW near Booti Booti NP. North headland has 6 bolted routes some with hangers, some with carrots, all glue in. The routes look good, I lwas fishing. Anyone climbed there?

Duang Daunk
3:46:08 PM
On 20/07/2017 widewetandslippery wrote:
>Its south of Forster NSW near Booti Booti NP. North headland has 6 bolted
>routes some with hangers, some with carrots, all glue in. The routes look good,
>I lwas fishing.
>Anyone climbed there?

You should have been surfing instead bro, as it's one of the better breaks up that way.
Prove me wrong with a list of what you caught?
8:51:29 PM
the lake had more waves than the beach. flat as. Fed people with bream and garfish. the routes looked ok
9:55:48 PM
Yes. The bolts are all good and the routes are ok - be scary today in the big swell.

Routes start at about 13 on the right and go up about one grade as you go left.

There are more new routes established this year over the backside in the zawn. They require a rap in and some work to access. I can give you details of the first ascensionist if you want details.
6:46:18 PM
by zawn you mean the zawn between Elizabeth and Boomerang? Thanks

9:41:34 PM
Are there any other established routes on that stretch of coastline between Seal Rocks and Forster?
8:31:49 AM
Pictures please! Is it on TheCrag?

9:17:28 AM
On 23/07/2017 pedro.c wrote:
>Are there any other established routes on that stretch of coastline between Seal Rocks and Forster?

Not strictly on the coast but quite near to it, Bulahdelah has plenty of established routes, though be mindful of access issues depending which part of it you intend going to...

On 23/07/2017 widewetandslippery wrote:
>by zawn you mean the zawn between Elizabeth and Boomerang? Thanks

Probably here?
3219'55.7"S 15232'57.3"E
-32.332128, 152.549243

6:48:41 AM
Re Bulahdelah: only the Beehive area through to the Cave is open ( the northern sector) to climbing, though walking to that area through the south section is fine. Don't climb in the southern part, Forestry are in the middle of discussions with the land council right now.
8:45:52 AM
On 24/07/2017 mikllaw wrote:
>Pictures please! Is it on TheCrag?

Not on the crag. Nice, solid 25?m slabs on a volcanic looking featured rock. 100m up off the beach, lots of room for new routes.

It was dusk on the last day at high tide and couldn't get around the headland. Was up there packraft exploring/fishing on Wallis Lake. Paddled south of Booti Booti and there was some good rock there as well.
Never went as far as the zawn. May look for a low swell and wind window to go back
1:14:37 PM
The new routes established are directly the other side of the current slab routes on slightly overhanging conglomerate (belayer wear a helmet too). These routes face North and are hard to access. i will try and get the first ascensionist to put some photos and details on the crag.

There looks to be some potential for seacliff routes between Elizabeth Beach and Bulls Paddock (the top end of 7 mile beach). Access would be difficult from the ocean but there is a walking track between these two beaches so bush bashing and rapping in from the top could be an option.

Between Boomerang and Seal Rocks there is no climbing or cliffs as far as I know. The area is very sandy and there is no real outcropping of any sorts until the volcanic stuff at Bulahdelah. Cape Hawke further north to Forster may be the next best area to explore - I know there is an old quarry there so I assume the rock is solid.
6:23:18 PM
I went to Boomerang Beach this weekend and had a play on the slab and one of the climbs on the other side. I wrote down descriptions and took some photos. I plan to put this info on but it would be great to get any other information about the climbs around here. Someone has obviously put some time into bolting them.

baz74 are you able to send me details of the first ascensionist so that I can get in contact before I put anything on

10:48:08 AM
I helped develop the crag with a friend back in 2012. I will get the info up on thecrag soon.

An overview of the climbing is as follows:


A lovely 20m low angle slab wrapping along the north end of Boomerang beach.

1 or 2? existing routes retrobloted as the old hardware would not have sustained a fall. These are the first 2 routes and offer very nice slab climbing around grade 19 / 17.

3 more routes were added using 316 110mm glue in carrots, grades around 15 / 14 / 13.

1:16:33 PM

* This crag is a sea cliff. Access is strictly under small swell conditions. Even on a medium swell day around 3 foot waves can make it treacherous for access.

* The rock is loose, and the rock is sharp. It's good adventure climbing, but it's just as rough on your rope as it is your skin.

* Wear helmets. The belay's are generally tucked out of the way of the climb, but there is loose conglomerate rock.

* Routes are 15-30m, starting from a belay ledge. Multipitch climbing skills are essential for this style of climbing.

* Communication while climbing will be limited as the longer climbs start off through gently overhanging terrain and finish up the long slab.

* The longer routes top out, and are best cleaned by a 2nd who also tops.

* Lowering off is best avoided, with options such as abseiling and bringing up the 2nd climber advised where possible.


From the Slabs walk up and over the headland, decent can be made rapping 30m in from the north for the northern routes (rope can get snagged and requires a 4m exposed grade 14 scramble to free). Or from the southern end scrambling down to the warm up wall, and a roped scramble to the belay ledge (10m above sea level).


There's a small wall on the southern side of the Zawn where you get a view of the main wall & get used to the funky rock with some shorter climbs. The 3 routes here are graded 14 / 18 / 22

1:52:03 PM


Scramble in from the warm up wall. You will have to solo down the slab leaning into the zawn, and traverse across to the 'crows nest' belay ledge, clipping 1 bolt before you commit to the traverse over the slot (WARNING this slot will turn small waves into big waves with the hint of a sizeable swell, if it's wet wait and watch for 5-10mins to see what the waves are doing).


The 2 routes here are short and tough as nails (24 & 26), they take on the small roof and headwall 5m up from the belay.


From the crows nest, keep traversing up and across for about 10m to reach the SSP, a large belay ledge about 15m up.

The 4 routes here offer long pocketed climbing to the top, as well as some shorter super steep climbs on huge scoops.

Perfect adventure grades at around 19-21.



30m rap from the north end. Be careful walking down the steep grassy hill, abseil to ground, then continue to abseil down into the zawn area. This is where the rope is likely to get stuck when pulling, so a short scramble may be required to retrieve.

It's rap in climb out, there is no other way to walk out unless the seas are flat.

There are 4 climbs here all graded 20, they hold ok in small swells starting at roughly 10m above sea level.

2:38:24 PM
Thanks Adrian, that is awesome info. I agree with all of the information that you have put there. Let me know when it is up on and I will add some topo photos that I took when I was down there (there is no easy way to share them here).

1:01:57 PM
Route data added to the crag -
5:52:20 PM
Thanks, I have now updated with the topos I have and some further descriptions. Feel free to correct anything that I have got wrong.

There are 18 messages in this topic.


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