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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

 Page 2 of 3. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40 | 41 to 46
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Author
What are most common grip types at Gramps/Araps?
jacksonclimbs
8-Jul-2017
10:24:40 AM
I've done some Yoga in the past, but I think climbing specific stretching and core workout is a much better use of time.

Hang-boarding is totally unnecessary to get you into the early 20s, I agree. Getting from low 20s to high 20s though, only climbing weekends, I think is more of a challenge. Doable without hangs, probably, but most weekend warriors that I have met at least, who climb in the high 20s, early 30s, do some kind of hang-boarding.
One Day Hero
8-Jul-2017
1:28:27 PM
On 8/07/2017 Wendy wrote:
> What 22s do you need fingerboard training for?

All the vertical crimpy ones at nowra and the blueys, which you can't do.
widewetandslippery
8-Jul-2017
1:51:56 PM
Graeme Hill 16s
Wendy
10-Jul-2017
6:35:47 AM
On 8/07/2017 One Day Hero wrote:
>On 8/07/2017 Wendy wrote:
>> What 22s do you need fingerboard training for?
>
>All the vertical crimpy ones at nowra and the blueys, which you can't
>do

Piffle, I onsighted them all in about 1994 (strangely enough never having even looked at a finger board, did they exist then?) so now I have retired on my laurels with my fingers still mostly intact :)
Wendy
10-Jul-2017
6:38:06 AM
On 8/07/2017 jacksonclimbs wrote:
>I've done some Yoga in the past, but I think climbing specific stretching
>and core workout is a much better use of time.
>
>Hang-boarding is totally unnecessary to get you into the early 20s, I
>agree. Getting from low 20s to high 20s though, only climbing weekends,
>I think is more of a challenge. Doable without hangs, probably, but most
>weekend warriors that I have met at least, who climb in the high 20s, early
>30s, do some kind of hang-boarding.

I have 2 theories about part time hard climbers. One is they were born mutants. The other is they were born obsessed. Both help!
kieranl
10-Jul-2017
11:11:15 AM
On 10/07/2017 Wendy wrote:
>On 8/07/2017 jacksonclimbs wrote:
>>I've done some Yoga in the past, but I think climbing specific stretching
>>and core workout is a much better use of time.
>>
>>Hang-boarding is totally unnecessary to get you into the early 20s, I
>>agree. Getting from low 20s to high 20s though, only climbing weekends,
>>I think is more of a challenge. Doable without hangs, probably, but most
>>weekend warriors that I have met at least, who climb in the high 20s,
>early
>>30s, do some kind of hang-boarding.
>
>I have 2 theories about part time hard climbers. One is they were born
>mutants. The other is they were born obsessed. Both help!

The third is that they are Kevin Lindorff
One Day Hero
10-Jul-2017
11:49:23 AM
I'm not convinced that Jackson exists. He's a pretty well fleshed out character (much better than the usual clueless bumblies who spring from Stugang's warped brain), but something seems a bit off.

shortman
10-Jul-2017
1:23:43 PM
On 10/07/2017 One Day Hero wrote:
>I'm not convinced that Jackson exists. He's a pretty well fleshed out character
>(much better than the usual clueless bumblies who spring from Stugang's
>warped brain), but something seems a bit off.

Yep.

IdratherbeclimbingM9
10-Jul-2017
3:07:23 PM
On 10/07/2017 shortman wrote;
>Yep.

Nah.

gnaguts
10-Jul-2017
3:22:19 PM
On 10/07/2017 Wendy wrote:
>On 8/07/2017 One Day Hero wrote:
>>On 8/07/2017 Wendy wrote:
>>> What 22s do you need fingerboard training for?
>>
>>All the vertical crimpy ones at nowra and the blueys, which you can't
>>do
>
>Piffle, I onsighted them all in about 1994 (strangely enough never having
>even looked at a finger board, did they exist then?) so now I have retired
>on my laurels with my fingers still mostly intact :)

Yeh, but wot grips didU use, an witch 1 is Ur favrite?
One Day Hero
10-Jul-2017
3:29:14 PM
Yeah, look, I know some climbers who think and talk like that. Could be legit, could be a character, hard to tell.

Anyway, I probably agree with Wendy and Stugang about climbing training more than I disagree.

If you want to be a competent all round climber, you have to get out on rock a lot. This 'totally real, not made up dude from Texas' hasn't expressed any interest in being a good climber though. He just wants to get strong and attach the biggest number possible to himself, with minimal time on rock. Obviously I don't have much interest in that approach to climbing, but it's a free country.

I assume the approach will be to find an overbolted, overgraded no-star classic, engage in a multi-weekend siege, and recreate all facets of the route on the home hangboard for after-work simulation (yay, what fun). You don't really need technique for that shit. Just rote learn all thirty moves of the route, develop sufficient strength and power-endurance in the fingers, consume enough empowering climbing memes to keep the boredom suppressed, and a shaking, wobbling, 'glorious send' will happen eventually.

That's what most climbers seem to want, and the hangboard delivers results.
jacksonclimbs
10-Jul-2017
5:05:30 PM
Pretty sure I'm not a character, in the sense that I'm not a recreation of someone's imagination. I'm not Texan either, I'm a Queenslander that lived in Texas for a few years, although that might be worse. I'm sure someone will bump into me eventually, might be a bit disappointing for everyone though, as I might not be able to live up to this caricature of me that's being created.

As for my approach to climbing, as you say, it's a free country - to each, their own.

Also, while I'm here, is there a way to filter for soft routes on thecrag?

ajfclark
10-Jul-2017
5:17:38 PM
On 10/07/2017 jacksonclimbs wrote:
>Also, while I'm here, is there a way to filter for soft routes on thecrag?

Search by FA Joseph Goding.

;-)
One Day Hero
10-Jul-2017
5:21:39 PM
>On 10/07/2017 jacksonclimbs wrote:
>>Also, while I'm here, is there a way to filter for soft routes on thecrag?

a) go back to Queensland, climb anything with bolts

b) search by Neil Monteith (originally from Queensland, but bolted everywhere)
Olbert
10-Jul-2017
8:13:04 PM
I for one, welcome our new Texan friend. He's much more interesting and engaging than the rest of you regular jaded lot. Jackson, I believe you exist.

By any chance, have you so loved the world that you sent your only begotten son to save it from sin? If so, once you're done in the Gramps, I think we could really get something going.

Olbert
10-Jul-2017
8:20:13 PM
On 10/07/2017 jacksonclimbs wrote:
>Also, while I'm here, is there a way to filter for soft routes on thecrag?

Try Nowra on a crisp windy day in the middle of winter - everything between 20 and 30 with stars is an absolute classic and overgraded. Turn up at any other time of year and you'll wish you hadn't.
One Day Hero
10-Jul-2017
9:11:34 PM
I was probably being overly negative there. Sorry Jackson, I'll try to be more agnostic about your existance.

Really though, stu and wendy are peddling crap for someone who wants to redpoint sport routes. Wendy drops 6 grades when it comes to pulling on mingers. Meanwhile, back when stu was climbing hard via 'body tension and hip flexibility', he forgets to mention that he was probably 15kg lighter than he is now, and bouldering desperate V10s in the hole........but nah, finger strength didn't come into it!
Wendy
11-Jul-2017
6:39:00 AM
On 10/07/2017 One Day Hero wrote:
>I was probably being overly negative there. Sorry Jackson, I'll try to
>be more agnostic about your existance.
>
>Really though, stu and wendy are peddling crap for someone who wants to
>redpoint sport routes. Wendy drops 6 grades when it comes to pulling on
>mingers. Meanwhile, back when stu was climbing hard via 'body tension and
>hip flexibility', he forgets to mention that he was probably 15kg lighter
>than he is now, and bouldering desperate V10s in the hole........but nah,
>finger strength didn't come into it!

I just don't pull on mingers cause my middle aged fingers don't like it anymore. Strangely enough, it was my forte in my 20s. You just had the misfortune to meet me after I had moved on to trenches.

Anyway, he was asking about araps, not hard sport routes (which you exagerate about, i still have a swag of 25ish ones in relatively recent history, i'm not dropping into the teens! That would however be what happens if you make me climb slabs). Araps is technical, challenging to read, involves a variety of techniques, has climbs of all sorts of styles, endurance is kinda useful and if you can place gear well, that might help too. Not to mention that I have no idea how people climb anything when they can't jam, that really does make everything easier.

and my argument is not about people focusing on that one soft tick, it is about actually becoming a better climber. Which i like to encourage people to do rather than focus on one soft tick. If I was going for a soft tick, I'd go for an overhanging jug fest which still won't need fingerboard training. Unless i was super tall any skinny, in which case, the vertical face would probably be easier still.
MichaelOR
11-Jul-2017
11:06:35 AM
Well Kevin has been known to dangle obsessively from a hangboard prior to his move to Nati. Probably doesn't need to now, although the hangboard might make a comeback since the café was purchased!
PeterW
11-Jul-2017
12:44:52 PM
That's a scary thought since Kevin would have been top of my list of people with strong fingers back in the day. The idea of him training them as well is mind boggling!

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There are 46 messages in this topic.

 

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