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New rope-eating rap on LWF/Siren

gfdonc

26-Oct-2016
5:06:52 PM

Hi,
Just thought I'd post this up as (a) a warning and (b) perhaps to gain more info.

I did Hot Flap on Sunday - someone pointed out to me it was one of the few 2/3 star routes under 22 I hadn't done - and enjoyed it.
However, while on the 3rd belay (largest ledge) two parties rapped down a new set of rings 2m to my left that I didn't know about and I assume are new.
Both parties got their rope stuck in a flake about 15m above the ledge. Both times they required my assistance - one I was able to free by pulling from my end of the ledge, the other one I climbed up there when following the next pitch and extricated it (and it was really stuck).
So .. any further input? Would it be possible to move the top station further right to avoid the issue? I'd have to say on a sample of 2 occurrences the chance of getting a rope stuck is high.
regards

Jayford4321

26-Oct-2016
8:29:31 PM

On 26/10/2016 gfdonc wrote:
>Hi,
>Just thought I'd post this up as (a) a warning and (b) perhaps to gain
>more info.
>
>I did Hot Flap on Sunday - someone pointed out to me it was one of the
>few 2/3 star routes under 22 I hadn't done - and enjoyed it.
>However, while on the 3rd belay (largest ledge) two parties rapped down
>a new set of rings 2m to my left that I didn't know about and I assume
>are new.
>Both parties got their rope stuck in a flake about 15m above the ledge.
> Both times they required my assistance - one I was able to free by pulling
>from my end of the ledge, the other one I climbed up there when following
>the next pitch and extricated it (and it was really stuck).
>So .. any further input? Would it be possible to move the top station
>further right to avoid the issue? I'd have to say on a sample of 2 occurrences
>the chance of getting a rope stuck is high.
>regards
>
Alright!
The ultimate absqueal sandbag formalized by boltz. Odius will B stoked!

gtempest

30-Oct-2016
8:22:09 AM

Interesting. I used this rap system a couple of months ago and on both occasions our ropes got stuck on the ledge / flake you are talking about. Had to solo up 15m to free them and then solo down again. No big deal if you have a few grades up your sleeve but could be a major pain in the arse if you don't. Saw another party from the ground having the same troubles.

simey

30-Oct-2016
11:22:01 PM

Sounds like a dumb and unnecessary rap when you have super fast walk down Pharos Gully.

jrc

31-Oct-2016
8:35:33 AM

Indeed. The prospect of Standing on the 3 rd belay of siren/HF while folks are wandering around setting up a rap directly above with piles of stones sticks dead lizards and random other debris is quite alarming.

I can see the logic in a couple of rap rings maybe at that belay especially if a large party gets into trouble or hit by a storm. But if they are all on top the safest way off is via the track down the gully behind not abseiling down and across one of the highest traffic multiple pitch areas at arapiles - with a rope snagging flake to boot!

gfdonc

31-Oct-2016
9:34:56 AM

On 30/10/2016 simey wrote:
>Sounds like a dumb and unnecessary rap when you have super fast walk down
>Pharos Gully.

Yep 100%. Even with a recovering sprained ankle that was the better option.

ajfclark

11-Jan-2017
12:58:54 PM

This probably makes more sense here:

On 10/01/2017 ajfclark wrote:
>I did yesterday just to see what it's like.
>
>Unless @egosan's ropes have shrunk a fair bit, the first abseil is a bit
>long perhaps? My 82kg + the rack barely got level with the bolts on stretch
>on a pair of 50m 7.9mm ropes. Threading the ropes at the top with the knot
>on the right they pulled fine for us, but I could see a lot of potential
>for things to go wrong. There's loads of bushes, loose rock, blocks, etc.
>
>Speaking on things going wrong, there was a bit of an epic when he assumed
>he could get to the ground from there and ended up on a 10cm wide ledge
>15m off the deck...
>
>After getting him to the ground on a single 7.9mm rope, I rapped to the
>bolted belay on Hot Flap, way, way left (facing the cliff), pulled again,
>and then to the ground with still not oodles of rope left.
>
>So 3 raps vs a quick walk down Pharos Gully. Even without the extra stuffing
>around, I think the walk is faster. With 60m ropes things might improve,
>but I'm still not sure you'll get to the ground from the Siren/Hot Flap
>anchor.

@egosan has since measured his ropes. They are 48.6m.

There are 7 messages in this topic.