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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

Area Location Sub Location Crag Links
VIC Grampians Northern Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre Taipan Wall [ Taipan Images ] 

Author
5 star bin dive, taipan wall
Kp
21-Jun-2015
1:24:50 PM
Does anyone know of the location of this new route from Alex megos ? Is it the enter the dragon / mortal combat project?

Snappy
22-Jun-2015
8:58:57 AM
On 21/06/2015 Kp wrote:
>Does anyone know of the location of this new route from Alex megos ? Is
>it the enter the dragon / mortal combat project?

Only report I could find was:

"Further south in the Grampians, Alex managed the first ascent of the long-time project between Mr Joshua and Venom (which went by many working titles including the Enter the Dragon project),"

From here: http://www.verticallifemag.com.au/2015/05/news-mega-megos/
Lee C
22-Jun-2015
9:15:34 AM
The Enter the Dragon project was done and kept the name. 5 star bin-dive is next to Feather Boa and gets a prize for worst route name on the wall! I suggest a rename by consensus!

Snappy
22-Jun-2015
10:07:45 AM
On 22/06/2015 Lee C wrote:
>The Enter the Dragon project was done and kept the name. 5 star bin-dive
>is next to Feather Boa and gets a prize for worst route name on the wall!
>I suggest a rename by consensus!

Who got the FA on Enter the Dragon? theCrag has it listed as Alex Megos (possibly added by someone with the same info as above).

I thought Orange Desire had the worst name on the cliff? :P


Edit: Random internet search got me to Alex Megos wiki page of all places: https://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Alexander_Megos

Lists both Enter the Dragon and 5 Star Bin Dive as FAs.
Dave J
22-Jun-2015
8:57:44 PM
The line I bolt just left of feather boa...or malcom's old dyno project?

shit name either way.
Kp
22-Jun-2015
9:02:15 PM
Dave I believe it starts up FB then veers right at roof let

phil_nev
23-Jun-2015
5:16:39 PM
Wasn't that Jai's project?
(removed)
24-Jun-2015
8:41:36 AM
On 22/06/2015 Dave J wrote:
>shit name either way.
+1

On 22/06/2015 Lee C wrote:
>I suggest a rename by consensus!
+1

Name suggestions anyone ?
maxdacat
24-Jun-2015
9:03:48 AM
On 22/06/2015 Lee C wrote:
>The Enter the Dragon project was done and kept the name. 5 star bin-dive
>is next to Feather Boa and gets a prize for worst route name on the wall!
>I suggest a rename by consensus!

Yeah the actual term is "Dumpster Diving" although it's more of a yank thing. I've never heard anyone talk about bin-diving.

ajfclark
24-Jun-2015
9:14:34 AM
On 24/06/2015 FatBoy wrote:
>Name suggestions anyone ?

Ursinii, scientific name for the Meadow Viper which can be found in Germany.
(removed)
24-Jun-2015
9:26:43 AM
On 24/06/2015 ajfclark wrote:
>On 24/06/2015 FatBoy wrote:
>>Name suggestions anyone ?
>
>Ursinii, scientific name for the Meadow Viper which can be found in Germany.

Nice

Snacks
24-Jun-2015
4:40:14 PM
What about 'Mülleimertauchen' - supposedly german for dumpster diving. haha
lacto
24-Jun-2015
6:12:34 PM
>Nice

Nice is in France
Dave J
24-Jun-2015
7:25:04 PM
On 22/06/2015 Kp wrote:
>Dave I believe it starts up FB then veers right at roof let

Thanks Kp. Further right (starting up scud buster???) there's a line of pretty big holds that goes almost al the way to the 7th pillar ledge and the stops with just 2 horrible mono moves to the ledge....wonder if it was that one or something in between???

On 24/06/2015 ajfclark wrote:
>Ursinii, scientific name for the Meadow Viper which can be found in Germany.

I like Ursinii
rossco
24-Jun-2015
8:16:12 PM
This is the description that Alex gave me of the route: 'The first pitch (till the first anchor) was a fairly new bolted line by Jai Critchley. It shares the start with "Feather Boa" and branches off to the right just before the overhang, where it continues for another approx. 10m to a first lower off (two bolts with biners). He decided to put the anchor there as the next bit of the wall till the big ledge (where Feather Boa ends) seemed really blank. My extension to that route climbs till that ledge. So it adds another 7m of hard climbing on thin crimps and pockets and a final jump to the ledge where it ends. The first pitch is about 28/29 and my extension makes it 34.'
Dave J
24-Jun-2015
11:34:25 PM
On 24/06/2015 rossco wrote:
>This is the description that Alex gave me of the route: 'The first pitch
>(till the first anchor) was a fairly new bolted line by Jai Critchley.
>It shares the start with "Feather Boa" and branches off to the right just
>before the overhang, where it continues for another approx. 10m to a first
>lower off (two bolts with biners). He decided to put the anchor there as
>the next bit of the wall till the big ledge (where Feather Boa ends) seemed
>really blank. My extension to that route climbs till that ledge. So it
>adds another 7m of hard climbing on thin crimps and pockets and a final
>jump to the ledge where it ends. The first pitch is about 28/29 and my
>extension makes it 34.'

thanks rosco, that does sound like the one I imagined it might be.
stugang
25-Jun-2015
12:02:36 AM
On 24/06/2015 Dave J wrote:
>On 24/06/2015 rossco wrote:
>>This is the description that Alex gave me of the route: 'The first pitch
>>(till the first anchor) was a fairly new bolted line by Jai Critchley.
>>It shares the start with "Feather Boa" and branches off to the right
>just
>>before the overhang, where it continues for another approx. 10m to a
>first
>>lower off (two bolts with biners). He decided to put the anchor there
>as
>>the next bit of the wall till the big ledge (where Feather Boa ends)
>seemed
>>really blank. My extension to that route climbs till that ledge. So it
>>adds another 7m of hard climbing on thin crimps and pockets and a final
>>jump to the ledge where it ends. The first pitch is about 28/29 and my
>>extension makes it 34.'
>
>thanks rosco, that does sound like the one I imagined it might be.

Perfect name then I think you'll agree.

There are 17 messages in this topic.

 

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