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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

 Page 2 of 2. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 23
Area Location Sub Location Crag Links
VIC Grampians Northern Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre (General) [ Grampians Guide | Images ] 

Mt Stapylton
12:37:17 PM
Finally checked out the length of the new rap from Trident area. With my 65m static both ends are about 2m off the ground and reach the ground with rope stretch.
So a 70m rope will be fine on this rap. A 60m climbing rope might make it on stretch but I would be cautious, tie figure-8s on each rope end and check the situation before going over the overhang 8m off the ground (there are bolts on the ledge to the right here if you don't think you'll make it).
And why do I have a 65m static? It was going to be a 60m but that left only 5m on the reel so they threw that in.
12:55:34 PM
I've finally done a couple of old routes that I've been meaning to do for years, Asterisk and Sternold.
Asterisk is an old aid route just right of Germinal freed by Tempest/Lindorff in 77. I first tried it about 16 years ago with Bert Levy and got a bit spooked but Bert might be part of the answer there. Has some good moves and protection is good even though the old bolts are terrible.
*Asterisk 30m 20
Good climbing with generally good protection despite the old bolts. The initial cracks would be a good warm-up approach for Land of Enchantment. Originally two pitches but better done as one. Belay in the chasm a just right of Germinal at an old initial "A". 1. 18m Easily up to the wide flake crack and go easily up to the top of this (rotten rock, very good protection from large cams - make sure to place plenty as ballast for the second). Step left and up to a seam past two poor bolts to a narrow ledge (LOE belay is to left) then up into a sentry-box. Fairly sensational out of the sentry-box into the final crack. Phillip Seccombe, Ian Speedie 17.7.66. FA Glenn Tempest, Kevin Lindorff 1977.

1:53:34 PM
>And why do I have a 65m static? It was going to be a 60m but that left only 5m on the reel so they threw that in.

Last time I did my homework* on buying an Edelrid static rope the 'fine print' read words to the effect of brand new ropes shrink (about 1% ??) at first usage.
(*This info is a couple of years old now).
What I bought was for a specific purpose and I ordered extra to cover this contingency.
~> always better to have too much, rather than too little rope.
Would be an interesting exercise to go back and measure it now to see if/how much it has shrunk ...

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There are 23 messages in this topic.


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