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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

 Page 1 of 2. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 23
Area Location Sub Location Crag Links
VIC Grampians Northern Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre (General) [ Grampians Guide | Images ] 

Mt Stapylton
Scotty A
6:46:49 PM

Desprite to get a way from it all and hit the Grampians tomorrow. Asses Ears is out so plan B is Mt Stapylton. Any issues with access here or is it all good to go?
8:10:39 PM
The only real issue is getting on routes before the instruction groups lace the place up, really depends on what grades and areas you want to go to. Summerday valley cops a flogging alot of weekdays. But to answer your question Stapylton is business as usual.
9:09:25 PM
The first bolt on Iron In The Soul 21 is currently missing. Should be back in shortly.
The carrot bolts were being replaced and there was a technical error with one of the replacements (I stuff up again).
9:38:48 AM
We were wondering what the drilling was on Saturday. It's a great route that deserves good bolts and more traffic - much appreciated! IMO the anchor was not ideal - any work on that?

Hopefully you also added the missing bolt to Decadent Bolting!?
10:18:27 AM
I'll update the SCV forum when work is completed.
I doubt that Richard would agree to an extra bolt in Decadent Bolting but I could try to get a request to him.
Actually, the carrots on IITS were pretty good and took some effort to get out. Pretty surprising for hand-drilling in such soft rock.

10:26:07 AM
Did it without the first bolt a few weeks back, on Wills recomendation saw the hole and was wondering what the go was.... was a little exciting think I used a crappy micro cam and some horizontal small wires....

Thought it was full value and quite a rare style of route for the grampians, had to crimp quite hard!!

11:03:43 AM
The first bolt was still in then. The empty hole is part of redevelopment. The RPs in soft rock were a silly idea from another time - and hand-drilling contributed to poor decision making.
7:34:47 PM
Iron In The Soul has the missing bolt replaced.
Could people not walk directly up from the walking track to Epsilon Plus and other climbs left of it (including IITS) as the hillside above the track is steep and sandy and erodes easily.
Please approach these climbs from well to the left, traversing in across slabby ledges from Flat Rock. This would be nasty in damp conditions but you won't be doing these climbs in damp conditions so that shouldn't be a problem.
10:20:36 PM
There is now a rap anchor at the top of first pitch of Molar Buttress. Rap is 23 metres. This is for (R-to-L)
Molar Buttress pitch 1 (obviously) 12
Toothless Tigers 12 - arete and wall just right of Molar Buttress
Herbal Sim 20 - the overhang just right of Toothless Tigers. Originally graded 17, I upped it to 21 in my guide but it's not that hard. Probably 18 or 19 technically but you'll take a nasty thump if you blow the crux move.
Disco Dilemma 22 Diagonal line just right of Herbal Sim. First pitch (22) up diagonal is sport (has rap-anchor) but second pitch (18), back left and up to ledge is trad.

10:57:34 PM
>Disco Dilemma 22 Diagonal line just right of Herbal Sim. First pitch (22)
>up diagonal is sport (has rap-anchor) but second pitch (18), back left
>and up to ledge is trad.

Is this line 2-3m right of Molar B. start?

Any info on 2 lines of bolts up south face on big rock in front of Germinal? Or 2 bolts in chasm left of Empty Pockets?
12:54:32 PM
Yes, Disco Dilemma is the line a few metres right of Molar Buttress. Herbal Sim 20 is the line through the overhang ebtween the two.
Lines on the block in front of Germinal are Wooden Heart 18, 4 FH, one medium-large wire (was just too good - couldn't justify placing a bolt there) and Synthetic Spine 14 or 15 2 FH plus some trad gear
2 bolts in the chasm would be Synchronised Tractor Maintenance 20. Has a second pitch of 18 with one FH and trad gear to Empty Pockets rap chains.

12:58:43 PM
I did Wooden Heart on saturday. I certainly didn't feel the need to place any trad gear. I also thought the
grades on the Synthetic Spine and Wooden Heart were about the same (17ish??)
3:45:12 PM
On 6/12/2006 nmonteith wrote:
>I did Wooden Heart on saturday. I certainly didn't feel the need to place
>any trad gear.
The moves to the top bolt are very easy but I'm the nervous type.
>I also thought the
>grades on the Synthetic Spine and Wooden Heart were about the same (17ish??)
Nothing would surprise me about my route grading.

3:54:27 PM
Synthetic Spine is harder than 15 for sure. The last mantle move is pretty desperate for newbies.
10:19:22 PM
I just love those big flat holds. The first ascent was done on sight with no fixed gear (I think that's my first virgin summit) but I was climbing fairly well at the time (many years ago) so it didn't seem right to spoil the climb by leaving it poorly protected. I also refrained from building a cairn.

8:36:34 AM
Thought WH (17/18) a bit harder than SS(16/17). Thinner at start and better top moves through the little roof thing near last bolt.

On a different note, a couple of the bolts on Spinoza are looking pretty rusty. And, one of the stiffest 22s I've ever done! Huge moves.

9:37:21 AM
I'll fix up Spinoza when redoing the rap anchors for that area. Should never have used non-stainless. Blame Simey for the 22 grade. Originally 23. If you want a huge move try the top pitch of Imbecile - that's the thin line around the arete from the top pitch of Mania. 23 if you have the reach or power - it was hard enough yarding on the old aid carrot .
9:45:48 AM
Any chance of installing an anchor where the climbing finishes on spinoza ? 15m or so... Bit of a nightmare going to the top of the butress. Thats all.

12:04:46 PM
those slopey/mantley holds at the top definitely didn't feel 15!!
12:31:26 PM
Probably why it was originally graded 14 ;)

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