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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

Area Location Sub Location Crag Links
VIC Melbourne (General) (General) (General) [ Melbourne Guide ] 

Author
New FH on Scipio Africanus

Miguel75
5-Feb-2015
9:33:13 PM
I was out at WG today doing my thing, and noticed a new fixed hanger down low on SA...

From memory it wasn't there when it was first bolted, anyone know when it went in? Was it installed around the same time as the new 16 next door, Thanos?

JimmyS
6-Feb-2015
6:17:34 PM
Howdy,

I believe that may be Dick's route he put up last weekend, Thanos. Goes at 23 apparently.

Cheers

Miguel75
6-Feb-2015
7:34:53 PM
Thanks Jimmy, I mistakenly put the height, as listed on the Crag, instead of the grade;) It looks pretty fun.

Can you ask Dick if he installed the new FH on Scipio Africanus?

D.Lodge
7-Feb-2015
11:47:48 AM
Hi Miguel
Yes I put that in at the same time as I did Thanos. It was a great almost sport route that needed the extra bolt to make it so. The trad start remains if you go to the right of the big block, but if you start up the steps on the left it protects the mantle onto the ledge and also the clip of the first ring.
Thanos is 23 and is a fun little boulders route up to a delicate traverse across the slab to the lower off rings. Enjoy.
dalai
7-Feb-2015
3:14:06 PM
Where are these two routes in relation to the others at the cliff? I'm having a hard time trying to picture where they are...

Miguel75
7-Feb-2015
6:47:45 PM
Dalai, Scipio Africanus starts as for Marcus Schaevola and moves left around the arÍte then basically straight up the slab to the ledge, with double ring belay, at the top of MS. Thanos tackles the face on the RHS between Ben Hur and Scipio Africanus. SA is great fun and the new BR will make the first few moves much, much less committing. Thanos looks fun though I've yet to jump on it.

IdratherbeclimbingM9
7-Feb-2015
8:14:05 PM
On 7/02/2015 Miguel75 wrote:
>Dalai, Scipio Africanus starts as for Marcus Schaevola and moves left around the arÍte then basically straight up the slab to the ledge, with double ring belay, at the top of MS. Thanos tackles the face on the RHS between Ben Hur and Scipio Africanus.
>SA is great fun and the new BR will make the first few moves much, much less committing.
>Thanos looks fun though I've yet to jump on it.

... and this is a good thing?

Miguel75
7-Feb-2015
9:20:38 PM
On 7/02/2015 IdratherbeclimbingM9 wrote:
>On 7/02/2015 Miguel75 wrote:
...SNIP...
>>SA is great fun and the new BR will make the first few moves much,
>much less committing.
>>Thanos looks fun though I've yet to jump on it.
>
>... and this is a good thing?

To answer your question M9, I shall quote from a source of great wisdom; Kung Fun Panda;

Shifu: Master! I have... it's very bad bolting news!
Oogway: Ah, Shifu. There are just bolts. There is no good bolt or bad bolt.
Shifu: Master, your vision. Your vision was right! A new bolt was added to an existing climb.
[pause]
Oogway: That IS bad news.

And so the circle continues;)

EDIT - From what I understand, and someone please correct me if I'm wrong, Glen Tempest bolted this, though not sure if he has the FA, and I reckon if there was to be a bolt down low he would have placed one. The trad gear is sufficient to protect the move and I reckon if people want to climb it a different way they're able to do so by stick clipping the first bolt. They may risk a small pendulum if they climb straight up the arÍte but that's their choice...

Thanos looks fun, good work on that Dick, though I'm not a fan of the new bolt on SA. I know Redex needs a new hanger on the first bolt as that's still just a bolt plate bolted to a wall...
jimbobtrad
9-Feb-2015
6:14:06 PM
Very interesting.
Was looking at bolting " Thanos " about 6 months ago but obviously didn't.
Is that big dodgy flake that actually moves still there or has it been removed?


D.Lodge
10-Feb-2015
4:34:49 PM
It's all good jimbob, went over it with my trusty hammer and tapped at everything withing reach, it has had 2 ascents as well as all my playing on it beforehand. Took a big flake off up high before bolting, but is all solid now.
Jayford4321
10-Feb-2015
6:17:21 PM
On 10/02/2015 D.Lodge wrote:
>It's all good jimbob, went over it with my trusty hammer and tapped at
>everything withing reach, it has had 2 ascents as well as all my playing
>on it beforehand. Took a big flake off up high before bolting, but is all
>solid now.

So how will U feel when the uneccessary bolt is removed from Scipio ?

There are 11 messages in this topic.

 

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