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Crag & Route Beta

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VIC Grampians The Black Range Black Ian's Rocks (General) [ Black Ian's Guide | Images ]

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A Few Stray bolts

alrob

12-Jul-2004
1:22:49 PM

there was a bit of confusion about where the route "Down By Law" actually went. the guide says "take 4 draws.....into scoop.....and finish up slab" here is a pick of the route and some stray bolts

the green circle is the bolt i clipped. the lower red circle is one of the flat swinging ring bolts, and the higher red circle is a ring bolt on the slab. the rig bolt high up, as well as the ring bolt i have last clipped in the photo, along with the lower carrot, all look as though they were placed by the same person, as the glue around the bolts and the bolts themselves are the same. it just looked as though heading up and across the th higher ringbolt was extremely difficult. can anyone shed some light on this?

nmonteith

12-Jul-2004
2:04:10 PM

The right lower old style ring was a project i think - from the Karrigan 80's era. The green circle is the correct last bolt for Down By Law. Ramon Francis has been bolting new things in that area recently. Perhaps the bolt up and left is one of his.

Robin

15-Jul-2004
6:09:55 PM

The bolts that were on Down By The Law were classic nominations for Neils 'worst bolt' competition. The first hammer in carrot wobbled under hand pressure, the fixed hangers were attached by carrots and one of the hangers was worn. I replaced these about 4 years ago with the rings and machine bolt. I re-used the same holes, used hilti glue and load tested all placements.

The ring bolt to the left replaced a hanger that was held in by an over driven carrot, which had been bent almost into an S shape to hold the hanger on. I replaced it at the time not knowing what the climb was. Checking the 'Black Guide' I suspect it is 'The Hanging Slab - 20', which is a variant finish to Legal Aid.

nmonteith

16-Jul-2004
8:57:13 AM

Thanks for that info Robin! I have added it to the SCV Database... any more routes that you have rebolted
recently?

Joe

19-Jul-2004
3:08:42 PM

I think the only bolts Ramon has placed there are on his route Peaceful Resolution a couple of years ago. Probably 26 and few ascents...

duglash

10-Aug-2004
8:16:14 PM

Where's this route Joe? (Peaceful R)

jmgh

11-Aug-2004
3:52:13 PM

while we're off the subject....left of subpoena is a 23, left again is a line of bolts scott camps put in years ago.has it been done?

nmonteith

11-Aug-2004
3:58:48 PM

Apparently it is still un-climbed.

There are 8 messages in this topic.