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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

 Page 7 of 7. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40 | 41 to 60 | 61 to 80 | 81 to 100 | 101 to 120 | 121 to 138
Area Location Sub Location Crag Links
All NSW (General) (General) (General)  

new nowra guide badly produced
10:47:09 AM
International Violence Against Women Survey: the Australian Component

A total of 6,677 women aged between 18 and 69 years participated in the telephone survey between December 2002 and June 2003, and provided information about their experiences of both physical and sexual violence. Women who participated were asked to recount their experiences of violence (including threats of violence) by current and former male partners, other males known to them including family members, acquaintances and friends, and their experiences of violence by strangers. They were also asked to recall instances of childhood violence and abuse.

Experiences across women's lifetimes (IVAWS)

Over half of the women surveyed (57%) had experienced at least one incident of physical or sexual violence over their lifetime.
More than a third of women (34%) had experienced this violence from a former or current partner, although violence from a former partner was more common, and more likely to result in women being injured and feeling that their lives were in danger.
12% of women reported experiencing sexual violence by an intimate partner (current or former) over their lifetimes, including instances of attempted (3%) and completed (6%) forced intercourse (i.e. rape).
Women who had experienced sexual violence by their intimate partners were also likely to have been physically abused by them (73%).
18% of women reported being sexually abused before the age of 16: almost 2% of women identified parents (fathers in all but two cases) as the perpetrators, while a further 16% identified someone other than a parent. The results suggest that the risk of sexual violence in adulthood doubles for women who experience child abuse.
27% of women reported sexual violence by non-intimates such as other close family members, relatives, friends, colleagues and strangers (although a number of women reported violence from both intimate partners and others). 7% of these women reported attempted forced intercourse and 4 percent reported forced intercourse over their lifetime.
Only 1% of the women surveyed identified having been raped by a stranger.

Just thought I'd mention that when women turn up to the crag they may want to feel welcomed, and not be reminded of the inequitable and violent society that they still have to negotiate every day. We do want women to be a part of this sport don't we? Same goes for Aborigines. Thanks Rod, I for one think you've done a great thing. Language is very important and has a much deeper effect than many realize.

For anyone who doesn't understand what I'm talking about: Imagine you are relocated to the Ivory Coast and all the route names are variants of "ugly cracker's head on a spike". You'd probably take up soccer. Anyways I would.

11:08:43 AM
Phew! Heavy, but yep, that is my point.

Perhaps the following might have been an appropriate intro to the history section of the guide,

Lyrics to Dayz Of Wayback :

What we gonna do right here is go back...

Now this is some shit that's from the Dayz of Wayback,
When FAs in Nowra first started to jack.
When the ladies wouldn't give you no respect if you wasn't leadin routes,
So few ladies in my neighborhood got climbing boots.
They always loved that shit. They want a FA that's clippin' wid ease.
But nowadays those FAs are workin' down at Mickey D's.
But in the Dayz of Wayback
I couldn't be laid back,
Because I needed first ascents and I made that.
I get the drill from my belayer that he lend me and
Start drillin' muthaf---as, just like BP.
Anything it took to get a first ascent.

(with apologies to Arabian Prince, DJ Yella, Dr. Dre, Eazy-E, Ice Cube, and MC Ren)

On 6/06/2011 rodw wrote:
>In the end its done and the the world is still turning....

Yep, amen to that.

11:31:29 AM
Talk about a mountain out of a molehill!

I hate to break it to you guys, but most of us here near Nowra just read the names and then do this thing called CLIMB. All this political correctness history lesson garbage is totally irrelevant and a little over the top.
4:42:17 PM
Well after all that... Is it worth buying the new guide if you have the old one? My understanding is there are no significant new areas? And New Nowra is not included. But a couple of hundred new routes in there?

Sounds like its not worth it. I'm happy to look at the new photos is someone else's guide.

5:26:05 PM
On 6/06/2011 dhunchak wrote:
>International Violence Against Women Survey: the Australian Component

How is this even remotely connected to the naming of a few climbs!!!!!

6:17:57 PM
The indignation at the censoring of the route names is almost as laughable as the hypocrisy. Aint no sunshine - was made cos stuart didn't rock with the cool guys. Now a slab of puerile jokes need to be captured for eternity cos the cool guys want to remember how cool they were when they buy a guide for a bunch of routes they can't get off the ground on anymore.

Funny thing is the guys in the 90's tried it on with those route names. Someone finally has taken them on. Not sure whether the people that are upset are upset at the censoring or the fact it has taken so long to happen, and at a time when they are comical shells of their former selves.
11:35:51 PM
Sonic, hangdog, I think you just demonstrated that you really don't get it. And whoever it was that I have forgotten that said we should be able to take jokes against women etc. Dave demonstrated remarkably that he does get it. As does Mike (you can come and develop that crag of routes dissing the mainstream to Mike). The point is that these names occur in a world that is not free and unbiassed. They occur against a back drop of continuing abuse, oppression, intimidation and stereotying of certain groups and that these names are predominantly targeting those groups. They are not targeting white, middle class, heterosexual males for example. In a world where all all was realatively equal, things might be different. I know everyone likes to poo poo this as just getting carried away and being PC, but it is actually a matter of respect, acknowledgement and equitable treatment of everybody so that everybody will be happy to take a few jokes when they come their way. In the meanwhile, there's a position from where you can make these jokes, and some where you have to be really careful about it. I can make the odd woman joke because it's pretty obvious where I'm coming from. I spent a month working with 2 gay guys who constantly made gay jokes. It's also clear where they are coming from. The sad reality is, that many Australians will still make sexist, racist and homophobic jokes and actually believe the ideas behind them. Thus like it or not, it is reality that comments and jokes like these have will reinforce exisitng problems and steroetypes and ostracise people. That many of you haven't noticed the names or found a problem with them probably reflects that these are not issues for you (as most of you that I know also happen to be white middle class males). People notice and are sensitive to things that are relevant to them.
7:28:48 AM
I just remembered another crag that had all the names changed recently. No one wailed about history and consultation when new names were invented for the routes at Boganville. Of course, I nearly forgot, that was related to a principle. We can all be a little inconsistant in our stances ...
9:17:49 AM
Hey Reply,
Ha ha - but of course you're not going to get old and weak are you! We all know your comments are now on the record and therefore may come back to bite you once the inevitable takes hold - in the meantime though 'grow up, not old'!

9:58:18 AM
On 6/06/2011 Wendy wrote:
>Sonic, hangdog, I think you just demonstrated that you really don't get

Wendy, I think your'e just demonstrating that given an inch you'll take a mile. I understand your arguement. What we disagree on is that I think this is a poor place to air it.

11:58:16 AM
On 6/06/2011 Wendy wrote:
>Sonic, hangdog, I think you just demonstrated that you really don't get
You are right I don,t get the connection between a few dodgy climb names and the rant that followed.
Again I think you are reading too much into it.

However its ok ,for example, for gay guys to make jokes about gays. But nobody else. So its not about the joke its all about who delivers it. So the gay guy makes a gay joke but the straight cant repeat it. Same with religious, race based or whatever. You know i find that the people like you (as you have made assumptions about me) are some of the most narrow minded people i have ever met with a kind of elitist attitude. Oh you cant stereotype and target group of people but you are happy to lump all white middle class males together as one.
It must be fun to be at party with you and the other guy dhunchak. It must be a hoot as you swap politically correct jokes and banter with each other. Did you hear the one about? Oh sorry cant tell that i,m not gay black or jewish. Any gays in the room? Oh great can you tell the one about the Gay Parrot......
You know i hope you find your crag and name all the routes as some kind of elitist word play. Maybe they will be funny.
Oh by the way have you been watching" Angry Boys "on the TV. Oh thats right i bet you dont have one. You Tube it. You will love it.

1:03:55 PM
Route names by Commitee?
Found this at
1:20:15 PM
Aw c'mon hangdog, I'm not so bad at a party. Just this weekend I told my mates about 'ugly cracker's head on a spike' and they thought it was hilarious. They're all black though so I guess perspective was a factor. Actually I had an idea that may allow us to move past this - let's all get together and develop a new crag called bigotry buttress. All the route names can be as offensive as you like, but must be directed at your own demographic. Save a few single digit lines for me as I've got a few ideas: nutbush toe stomper, hot dog in a hallway, child of divorce so I drives a porsche, and carrot sucking broccoli muncher. Also I'm Canadian so something along the lines of 'what's red and white and blew all over it?'. I look forward to reading your anti-whatever it is you are route names, and also sharing a rope. Cheers.


1:31:14 PM
Found this.

Up in heaven God was talking to an angel about this beautiful country he was creating. He described this place to the angel.

"It will have lakes, tall mountains, as well as big trees covering the land. The air will be crisp and fresh , the water will always be clean, and the people will be the most friendly you will ever meet."

"I will call it Canada and the people living inside; Canadians."

"But God." the angel questioned, "don't you think you are being too nice to these Canadians?"

"Nope!" replied God, "Just wait 'till you see their neighbors!"
Mr Milk
5:02:43 PM
I'm curious...

Considering all this moral outrage: was 'Black Parasite' renamed?

11:07:44 AM
Mention of Nowra on another thread reminded me that I had a good read of this guide last week. To give Rod Young his due, he does state in the intro that he is not trying to rename routes, just clean them up for *his* book, and that the real names are available on-line on ACA, TheCrag and so on. Seems fair enough.

And the book also sports a picture of widewetandslippery, looking like he paid a visit to Star Shots.
12:45:09 PM
Thats funny/ disturbing if you mean this:

Starshots Glamour Photography - Studio Photographers | Photography ...Starshots Glamour Photography are Australia s leading photography studio network with professional photographers specialising in family & pregnancy ... - Cached - Similar

I had to google it yet you know what it is. wtf? Btw I thought Rods portrait was quite good.

PS. I'm not pregnant.

2:37:06 PM
There's a Starshots a block away from my work, I pass it every day, that's how I knew, honest. Maybe Rod has been moonlighting there, or opened a Wollongong branch. Anyone can look good with soft focus and backlighting. ;-)

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There are 138 messages in this topic.


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