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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

 Page 2 of 2. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 30
Area Location Sub Location Crag Links
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Author
USA road trip itinerary ideas

The good Dr
12-Jan-2010
1:03:36 PM
There are a lot of suggestions, and quick trips here and there to some great destinations. From my own experience it is better to spend a few weeks (minimum) at one place. This helps you:

1. Get used to the intricacies of the rock and the routes
2. Better knowledge of the classics
3. More climbing and less traveling days
4. More chances to meet other climbers who may be able to point you in the direction of the types of climbs you want, or make good suggestions, or sandbag you for fun.

I have done each type of trip many times and always get the most out of the trip when I stay somewhere for a while. When I scoot around I usually feel disappointed that I didn't spend more time in one place.

Other places to consider on your list:

1. Devils Tower (Wyoming) - one of the best crags I have ever been to
2. Enchanted Tower (New Mexico)
3. Hueco Tanks (Texas)
4. Lake Louise (Alberta, Canadia)

ampedandwired
12-Jan-2010
2:59:53 PM
I did a 3 month US trip, same area (in/out of LA), same time of year (mar-may) quite a few years back. I didn't have a car so bummed rides with climbers when I could and hitched/public transport when I couldn't - a car would give you more flexibility for sure. As a result I spent lengthy periods at each spot as opposed to hopping round a lot, which, as the Dr prescribes, I think is a good thing.

Here's where I went:

1. J-Tree (easy day from LA, I caught buses then hitched into the campsite in a day) - nice scene there and really cool landscape
2. Red Rocks - I found the sport climbing a bit meh, but the long trad routes in the canyons are awesome
3. Bishop (buttermilks, owens river gorge) - the sport climbing in the gorge is great, and the bouldering is good too if that's your thing
4. Yosemite - had around 6 weeks here from apr to may. Was cold and even snowed early on, but the bonus is no crowds. By the end of the stay it was just starting to get busy. Tuolumne was still closed due to snow.

I was pretty happy with this itinerary. If I had more time I would have gone to Indian Creek / Zion as well. There's so much stuff in that part of the world that it really does depend on what sort of stuff you want to climb - pick a destination or two that are "must haves" (for me it was Yosemite) and work your itinerary around that.

Lake Louise (and Canada crags in general) are likely to be still pretty cold/snowy that time of year (maybe some late season ice climbing though?).

pmonks
12-Jan-2010
3:28:10 PM
On 12/01/2010 widewetandslippery wrote:
>I think J-Tree is overrated.

Sounds like you didn't take enough hallucinogenics!

Eduardo Slabofvic
12-Jan-2010
3:44:09 PM
On 12/01/2010 pmonks wrote:
>On 12/01/2010 widewetandslippery wrote:
>>I think J-Tree is overrated.
>
>Sounds like you didn't take enough hallucinogenics!

Hmmmmmm; very handsome Dr Smith.

SteveC
12-Jan-2010
7:44:14 PM
Canada. Go to Squamish. May/June is not too early, in fact it never rains there at all.
dfinnecy
13-Jan-2010
8:52:18 AM
Squamish is a real nice place. Hopefully the snow will melt out and you will be able to get
up to Tuolumne.

If you want to check out an obscurity and break up the drive from Squamish/Smith
Rock/Index down to Yosemite schedule in a stop at Castle Crags. Cosmic Wall is an
easy classic with fantastic views of Mt Shasta:

http://mountainproject.com/v/california/shasta_cascade/castle_crags/106053028

If you like a slog you could also go up Shasta but you would need an axe and crampons.
jdb
13-Jan-2010
8:59:31 AM
Sounds like you'll be missing for the 'Autumn Offensive', Yonnie...we'll miss you
james
13-Jan-2010
12:49:40 PM
On 12/01/2010 The good Dr wrote:
>Other places to consider on your list:
>4. Lake Louise (Alberta, Canadia)

seriously!? the Lake is a fun crag & probably the best short crag in the area, but its not a destination crag in itself. combined with some idosyncratic Rockies alpine choss, the Bugaboos, & Squamish its worthwhile. But if you've climbed in the Gramps or Araps don't drive 10hrs just to climb at the Lake...
james
13-Jan-2010
12:56:24 PM
& yeah.. spring is early to be at the Lake. We got lucky last June & there were a few days warm enough to climb at the Lake but there was snow at the base still. March you can find some ice still, but only if its shady - most sunny low-altitude ice will be rotten by then. Lots of good ski touring & snow/ice mountaineering options in the Canadian Rockies in April/May.

Skaha (near Penticton, BC) is usually nice in April/May/June for cragging.
Yonnie
13-Jan-2010
4:16:16 PM
I'll miss you guys too! : (

 Page 2 of 2. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 30
There are 30 messages in this topic.

 

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