Chockstone Forum

      Sponsored By
      ROCK
   HARDWARE

Chockstone Photography

Australian Landscape Prints

Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

Area	Location	Sub Location	Crag	Links
VIC Grampians	Northern	Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre	Epsilson Wall	[ Grampians Guide \| Images ]

Author

Project at Stapylton

kieranl

29-Oct-2009
10:41:01 PM

Anyone know the details of the seam on the far right of the overhanging wall on the Let X=X terrace. Apparently it's now been equipped, tried and tagged. Just curious. I tried to point a few people at it over the last 15 years or so. Good to see someone has taken up the challenge. I always wondered if the last couple of metres was feasible but could never be bothered rapping it to check as it was obviously out of my league.


nmonteith

29-Oct-2009
10:47:21 PM

I think this is an a-team project. Philnev, alrob or grosey will be able to say more...


phil_nev

30-Oct-2009
9:11:22 AM

On 29/10/2009 kieranl wrote:
>Anyone know the details of the seam on the far right of the overhanging
>wall on the Let X=X terrace. Apparently it's now been equipped, tried and
>tagged. Just curious. I tried to point a few people at it over the last
>15 years or so. Good to see someone has taken up the challenge. I always
>wondered if the last couple of metres was feasible but could never be bothered
>rapping it to check as it was obviously out of my league.

Hi Kieran, you are correct, it has been equipped and is ready to be sent (Still a closed Project though :). I spied the line whilst up there doing your routes and came back and bolted it a couple of months later.
Its about 23 ish to the halfway break, then its turns it on pretty quickly, two very hard boulder problems in a row to the top! It will certainly go, how hard though i'm not sure, perhaps 30+.
Chers,
Phil

kieranl

30-Oct-2009
9:16:20 AM

Hi phil, good to hear that it's being worked on. As I thought, it's miles out of my league. I've noted it in the ACA guide as a closed project.

kieranl

9-Dec-2010
11:10:29 AM

Does anyone know anything about the route that's been bolted directly up from the initial traverse of Walking And Falling on Epsilon Walls? I know Will Monks top-roped it some time ago.

kieranl

9-Dec-2010
12:24:28 PM

I think I've got Steve's email somewhere. I'll have to prod him for a write-up.

MichaelOR

9-Dec-2010
10:31:46 PM

Yeah, Steve botled and ticked it a little while back. 24 is the go.
Climbs well too.

kieranl

9-Dec-2010
10:50:03 PM

Thanks Mike.
Steve has got back to me and description is now on ACA - Riding and Climbing 24 sport.

kieranl

9-Dec-2010
11:03:44 PM

And here's a preview of a new cliff that will hopefully be public soon (as soon as it stops raining long enough). This route is grade 18 sport and yes it is as steep as it looks and as good as it looks.

crm114

9-Dec-2010
11:26:29 PM

Any broad hints on where the new area is..? Looks pretty interesting.


nmonteith

10-Dec-2010
12:17:57 AM

Looks awesome Kieran,

10-Dec-2010
1:18:01 AM

it looks like a slab!!

kieranl

10-Dec-2010
6:42:01 PM

On 9/12/2010 crm114 wrote:
>Any broad hints on where the new area is..? Looks pretty interesting.
Grampians


phil_nev

13-Apr-2011
3:26:25 PM

On 9/12/2010 kieranl wrote:
>

>And here's a preview of a new cliff that will hopefully be public soon
>(as soon as it stops raining long enough). This route is grade 18 sport
>and yes it is as steep as it looks and as good as it looks.

When do we find out about this place??


nmonteith

13-Apr-2011
3:46:32 PM

I guess after the roads to the cliff get re-opened!

pharmamatt

13-Apr-2011
6:27:40 PM

On 10/12/2010 kieranl wrote:
>On 9/12/2010 crm114 wrote:
>>Any broad hints on where the new area is..? Looks pretty interesting.
>Grampians

Style/grades?

kieranl

13-Apr-2011
10:12:21 PM

I was hoping to have finished a couple of other things and opened it up for Easter but the road closures have got in the way.
The wall pictured is the best single bit of the crag and is all sport. Currently has 4 excellent sport routes grade 17-20 (one at each grade), 20-25 metres long, plus another warm-up route at 16 and a couple of harder lines that have worked on top-rope and will probably prove too hard for me and I expect to be open sport projects when the area reopens.
There's quite a lot of other rock in the area but it's scattered, currently 3 easy trad routes and 1 sport.
I'm a bit embarassed about keeping it closed for so long.
Ethos is good gear. If the gear is poor, place a bolt; if it's mostly bolts make it all bolts.
Location : Not a million miles from Buandik, 30 minute walk.
** post-edit ** Sorry KP some of the climbs have obligatory slab moves

kieranl

13-Apr-2011
10:22:39 PM

And to drag this thread back onto topic, how's that seam at Stapylton going?


alrob

14-Apr-2011
8:39:18 AM

It shall be seeing some action over Easter I expect ;)


phil_nev

26-May-2011
12:26:21 PM

On 13/04/2011 kieranl wrote:
>And to drag this thread back onto topic, how's that seam at Stapylton going?

I have tried it Kieran but its pretty hard. It has 3 distinct sections
1. Grade 23/24 start, bouldery moves on good holds to the massive jug at half height
2. V7/8 Boulder problem to shallow rail and tough bolt clip
3. V9/10 Boulder problem with huge deadpoint/dyno to finish

I did quite a few of the moves in the hard section, but there was a couple of spots where I could barely hold my weight onto the wall. :(

An early guess for me would be 31++

There are 22 messages in this topic.