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The greatest sandbags in Victoria

simey

8-Oct-2009
8:32:39 AM

On 7/10/2009 stugang wrote:
>Why not deal with the diversity?

I think I might deal with the diversity by visiting the States and doing a guidebook over there that only uses Australian grades.

dalai

8-Oct-2009
9:19:07 AM

On 7/10/2009 howzithanging? wrote:
>yeah WTF is with the french bouldering grades, a 7c in climbing is easier
>than a 7c in bouldering....... work that out

Because they only share the same numerical style. The notation to denote the difference is in fact 7c for climbs and 7C for bouldering...

simey

8-Oct-2009
9:33:34 AM

I would have thought they'd use lower case for the wee little boulders, not the other way around. Either way, it's a dogs breakfast.

dalai

8-Oct-2009
9:57:42 AM

To make it more interesting, they grade the traverses often a route grade. So an 7C up problem is naturally harder than a 7c traverse...

Its no more a dogs breakfast than here where we use a separate grade for routes and boulders, the only difference in Australia we use a different notation for the different grading structures.

Olbert

8-Oct-2009
10:38:13 AM

do you really think we should be giving corrasponding grades to both boulders and routes? Bouldering is almost a completely different sport, doing a '25' boulder problem would be radically differenent from doing a 25 route. It would just confuse things more!

prb

8-Oct-2009
10:51:09 AM

All I can say is I only know of one climb on the planet whose grade has tripled over the last 20 years -
Sunny Gully. Thus, it had to be Victoria's greatest sandbag for quite a while.

What's three times harder than 5.10a? 5.30c?

Olbert

8-Oct-2009
10:59:38 AM

On 8/10/2009 prb wrote:
>All I can say is I only know of one climb on the planet whose grade has
>tripled over the last 20 years -
>Sunny Gully. Thus, it had to be Victoria's greatest sandbag for quite
>a while.
>
>What's three times harder than 5.10a? 5.30c?
nope
a 15.30c


IdratherbeclimbingM9

8-Oct-2009
11:32:26 AM

... or 5.30c^{+^-⁺} (... 15.30c^{+^-⁺} ~> as the case may be...)
Heh, heh, heh.


gordoste

8-Oct-2009
11:59:04 AM

actually i don't think any grading scale is linear.
32 vs 16 is definitely not the same as 16 vs 8.

One Day Hero

8-Oct-2009
12:55:40 PM

On 7/10/2009 nmonteith wrote:
>Get your facts straight mate - the word 'classic' isn't in my route description
>- nor did I give it three stars. It's had 14 ascents on thecrag.com and
>no-one else seems to think its 23. Thanks for the feedback though...
>
You asked about which of your routes had suss grades, I onsighted your '25' without even breaking a sweat so I thought you might like to know that it's squishy as. No one else has mentioned it being soft because they're all desperate to prove how good they are by ticking off the easiest big numbers they can find!

One Day Hero

8-Oct-2009
1:01:39 PM

On 8/10/2009 Olbert wrote:
>do you really think we should be giving corrasponding grades to both boulders
>and routes? Bouldering is almost a completely different sport, doing a
>'25' boulder problem would be radically differenent from doing a 25 route.
> It would just confuse things more!

Absolutely! Bouldering is almost completely different to sport.


nmonteith

8-Oct-2009
2:02:05 PM

On 8/10/2009 One Day Hero wrote:
>You asked about which of your routes had suss grades,

I actually asked that question 5 years ago when this topic was created but whatever... :-)

>I onsighted your
>'25' without even breaking a sweat so I thought you might like to know
>that it's squishy as. No one else has mentioned it being soft because they're
>all desperate to prove how good they are by ticking off the easiest big
>numbers they can find!

Probably! I think most consider it a tad soft as the crux is over quickly - but i don't think its 23. IMHO It's much harder than any 23 sport route at VD land, Spurt, Gallery, Muline. I wonder if you actually did the route correctly by finishing direct up the reachy headwall at the last bolt rather than bailing right into the juggy finish of the 22 next to it? That single move is probably 24 in its own right, but everyone seems to McDougal right and avoids it.


pmonks

8-Oct-2009
2:48:47 PM

On 8/10/2009 prb wrote:
>What's three times harder than 5.10a? 5.30c?

Any 5.9 in Yosemite.

Fish Boy

8-Oct-2009
3:17:03 PM

Beowolf, ha, what about Caligula?

dalai

8-Oct-2009
4:04:44 PM

On 8/10/2009 pmonks wrote:
>On 8/10/2009 prb wrote:
>>What's three times harder than 5.10a? 5.30c?
>
>Any 5.9 in Yosemite.

Amen!

kieranl

8-Oct-2009
5:27:42 PM

On 8/10/2009 dalai wrote:
>On 8/10/2009 pmonks wrote:
>>On 8/10/2009 prb wrote:
>>>What's three times harder than 5.10a? 5.30c?
>>
>>Any 5.9 in Yosemite.
>
>Amen!
If it's any wider than a finger-crack.

james

9-Oct-2009
1:03:12 PM

On 7/10/2009 nmonteith wrote:
>I'm with you Patto...
>
>Some US guides use 5.10+, some use 5.10c/d. Confusing! Why isn't there
>a 5.9a?

some areas (in Canada at least) used to use 5.10+ or 5.10- to grade trad routes & then 5.10c/d for sport routes. It doesn't seem so common now unless the guidebook is old, or unless its an alpine route which tend to change lots &/or have lots of little possible variations & route finding challenges.


Chuck Norris

9-Oct-2009
8:21:32 PM

On 9/10/2009 james wrote:
>On 7/10/2009 nmonteith wrote:
>>I'm with you Patto...
>>
>>Some US guides use 5.10+, some use 5.10c/d. Confusing! Why isn't there
>>a 5.9a?
>
>some areas (in Canada at least) used to use 5.10+ or 5.10- to grade trad
>routes & then 5.10c/d for sport routes. It doesn't seem so common now
>unless the guidebook is old, or unless its an alpine route which tend to
>change lots &/or have lots of little possible variations & route finding
>challenges.

I always found the 5.10+ or minus thing to be sufficiently vague to almost be accurate. Anything more
granular is just bean counting. If you care about the difference between a c or a d or a 25 or a 26 then
you deserve to get sandbagged. You want logic and simplicity in grading then round all oz grades to
the nearest 5 and add a hard or easy in the description as well as a likelihood of death in the
description....hey guess what thats pretty much french grading.

james

10-Oct-2009
10:18:11 AM

On 9/10/2009 stugang wrote:
>I always found the 5.10+ or minus thing to be sufficiently vague to almost
>be accurate.

yeah agreed


Macciza

10-Oct-2009
10:38:23 AM

Hmmm... The greatest sandbag in Victoria . . . .
I'd go with Shai Hulud at Upper Spurt . . .
Quite a bag of sand, but definitely worth a shot if you're ever in the area . . .

There are 127 messages in this topic.