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General Climbing Discussion

 Page 7 of 9. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40 | 41 to 60 | 61 to 80 | 81 to 100 | 101 to 120 | 121 to 140 | 141 to 160 | 161 to 180
10:08:39 AM
OK, onsight has the info, route developers are bitter he has it. Route developers could put info on ACA site for prosterity and open source info. OR LEARN TO KEEP A SECRET A SECRET.

I'll still buy the guide. Guide geek. Like books. HATE electronic devices at the crag. Like dreaming of climbing reading a guide book when having a quiet sit evacuating. Last bluies guide and last Araps guide are two of the best guides I've used/seen. Kudos to all.

"Bottom feeders" the Urban dictionary describes such as:

Somebody who pays for hookers, and then fails to have sex with them.
"Justin is a bottom feeder because paid for two prostitutes but ending up masterbating."

10:20:49 AM
I found some new boulders last time I was in Sydney. I am willing to give the info to Chris Webb-Parsons and Dave Pearson, for their new Sydney Bouldering Guide but only if they buy me a new toothbrush.

I presently only have one and I'm sick of getting sandstone grit stuck between my teeth.

he he he crunch crunch crunch

4:49:59 PM
This is a climbing discussion wombat...keep it on topic :)

5:00:53 PM
On 14/05/2010 rodw wrote:
>This is a climbing discussion wombat...keep it on topic :)

I'll be climbing routes again soon, mate.

With my crook shoulder, your routes are about the only things I'll be able to get up, without jeopardising the healing process ; )

6:17:35 PM
Stick to your boulder problems...they are probably higher.

9:00:42 PM
On 14/05/2010 wallwombat wrote:
>but only if they buy me a new toothbrush.
>I presently only have one and I'm sick of getting sandstone grit stuck
>between my teeth.
>he he he crunch crunch crunch

Some toothbrushes have been in interesting locations. Are you sure you want one that badly?
Hehx etc

9:31:11 PM
On 14/05/2010 IdratherbeclimbingM9 wrote:
>Some toothbrushes have been in interesting locations. Are you sure you
>want one that badly?
>Hehx etc

Now I know where I have seen you before, M9.

You dirty, dirty old man.

he he x 1000 000

9:46:22 PM
Where is the beard?
... also can't hear the clank of hexes...
~> Nah. You wouldn't know me from Adam!
HehX some
One Day Hero
1:08:35 PM
On 13/05/2010 Linze wrote:
>chockstone's own angry marxist..... call em what you want, but there are
>a bunch of climbers (myself included) that consume the surplus generated
>by the efforts of seems the 'bottom' feeders are in fact acting
>like a ruling elite or 'upper class'.
Nah, I don't read enough to be any sort of -ist. Surplus eh? So....they're going out and doing some work so they can climb the route, then doing more work so I can climb the route? And the system, set up for bottom feeders, forces bolters to bolt or they....or what? Won't be allowed to climb?

It's not that I don't appreciate all the work that's been done by people over the years but...(watch out, here comes the marxist bit).....I reckon it was cool that the 70's and 80's guys were using masses of time and bugger all money to prep routes. Sounds like most were marginally employed, and bolting with hand drills and carrots doesn't cost shit all. Now, with all the bolt police insisting that routes be done with expensive stainless gear, it seems you're not allowed to put up routes unless you have a good job and lots of disposable income. Shame!

The other thing I might get off my chest is the whole thing where the official history of climbing is about first ascents. First ascents of bolt routes are really boring.......rap, inspect, bolt, chip, glue, find belayer, dog, whinge about conditions, spit dummy, find another belayer, become obsessive, lose girlfriend, chip a bit more, finally tick the thing, spray, look for next obsession, yawn!

People bumbling around on established routes, working the whole thing out, f---ing up, having epics, doing it on the cheap, not jaded yet, still seeing the beauty in it all, are the real climbers. If only I could know now what I knew back then!
One Day Hero
1:22:15 PM
On 13/05/2010 AndyRicho wrote:
>This is getting a bit off topic, but i just had to throw my 2 cents worth
>in and defend Robbie's name here. I'm a good friend of Rob's and can tell
>you he is one of the nicest guys around! The comment from that interview
>is probably a bit out of context, and i think from memory i even read that
>article and thought that it wasn't written, worded very well. The comment
>was about someone wanting to steal a project that you have put your vision
>hard work and money into and can't even give you the respect of at least
>letting you have a good crack at doing it first. It wasn't about those
>out there that just enjoy to climb but don't want to bolt

Yeah, sorry, I shouldn't have mentioned Robbie's name. I'm sure he's a good bloke.....however, that article was stirring shit in a huge way, and I reckon it was deliberate. I can relate to that, I write heaps of stuff on here knowing that quite a few people will think I'm a fcukwit!

Rocky Poontang
3:18:14 PM
Got it in one... One day fcukwit.
3:24:17 PM
First post - abusive too... Looks like a newly created account just to attack another chockstone member.

I'd recommend a self edited post or expect a very short stay and have this account locked Rocky.
3:28:54 PM
Gee Rocky, you've set an incredibly high standard with your first post.

It remains to be seen whether you can reproduce that level of insight, wit and constructive irony in all your contributions herafter.

3:29:51 PM
ODH is pretty thick skinned.

You don't have to make up some cowardly anonymous persona to call him a fcukwit.
One DAy Hero
4:24:45 PM
On 17/05/2010 Rocky Poontang wrote:
>Got it in one... One day fcukwit.

Ouch, hope it's not buffalo granite!
4:50:51 PM
"I write heaps of stuff on here knowing that quite a few people will think I'm a fcukwit!"

Mate I know you area fcukwit !!!! ha ha

5:14:10 PM
On 17/05/2010 One DAy Hero wrote:
>Ouch, hope it's not buffalo granite!


Not to worry, as evanbb reckons there is no difference between Buffalo granite and Booroomba granite.
I reckon it is probably Bungonia limestone, as I know that is the principle ingredient in cement, and we all know what a teaspoon of that will do for you...
Heh, heh, heh.
~> I am impressed with your restraint ODH.
DJ Biggs
8:26:15 PM
I took part in bolting routes recently, on holiday in thailand, got a couple of first ascents on the day of departure it was great, didn't have to contribute any money, just time and effort, which was a privilege. Nothing more. I left my rope at part of the kitty for the developing crew and left it at that. The chief organizer offered me F.A.s for time put in, and we agreed no one's names will appear in the guide book.

Was a nice way of doing it. I think that he would happily provide topos it to the competing Thai guide makers to prevent bitching like this.

There was only one thing that pissed people who were doing the "work" off, a guy funnily by the name of Martin, was cragging having shots for F.A.s bitching about bolt placements without contributing. That was the only sore point.

Relevance to this issue? Not much only that bullshyte secret crag, fiscally driven bolting is a poor alternative.

It sounds like Onsight has asked guys to contribute without any incentive for themselves...and with ?2700 routes to catalouge there never will be. Hope their routes are labeled IRA style on the aca website.

Can't wait to visit, BV.

3:32:22 PM
I know about the principle ingredient in cement. In the literal sense. I think its just as relevant that I bang on about tricalcium silicate polymorphism as this thread direction... Except that I'd really enjoy banging on about tricaclium silicate.
7:19:45 AM
tricalcium silicate polymorphism sounds interesting, tell us more.

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There are 180 messages in this topic.


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