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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

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Author
The official stoked thread!

gordoste
2-Jun-2009
1:21:15 PM
On 1/06/2009 bl@ke wrote:
>On 31/05/2009 gordoste wrote:
>>stoked that i top-roped Staircase (sandbag 21) clean today at The Rock.
>>Now I guess
>>we need to replace the tiny lumps of rust that used to be the bolts.
>
>
>its a good line isnt it. i tried it a while ago but couldnt do it, did
>you get the whole side pull thing happening with the top-rope?

I didn't get too many sidepulls, I find that it's mostly about getting your feet high. I came really close to falling off because I couldn't remember the sequence I was using when I was trying it last year, and therefore I had to improvise with some horrible holds including an upside-down pinch. I'm even more stoked because it's been at least 9 months since I jumped on it and I did it first go :)

evanbb
2-Jun-2009
1:35:59 PM
Stoked to be returning to my secret adventure bouldering crag this weekend, which is approximately here

Did that map work BTW?
Photos here


And to make it 2xUltra, I'll be trout fishing for the first time ever (done a lot of rock fishing previously, for pelagics mostly), followed by a spit roast Sunday night. Not sure what cut to cook yet, maybe a pork leg? Any ideas?


IdratherbeclimbingM9
2-Jun-2009
2:17:01 PM
Yes the map link worked OK.

Your shot of the cliff out behind Black Perry Mtn near Talbingo brings back memories.
I led a route there up into the 'what seems like a cave from the highway' ~ located about up it's west face back in 1972. That route finishes at the topmost portion of its bowels. We then traversed off a rising diagonal line to top out. Spent one of the coldest nights of my life bivvied on top ...
Also climbed Black Perry (amongst all the goat sh!t on any belay spot to be found!), as well as 'explored' Cave Creek for caves ... This is one of the creeks one crosses from the Snowy Mtns Hwy while bushwhacking to get there.
Someone may re-discover these adventures again one day.
My kodak instamatic photos don't do it justice. Do you mind if I download your shot?

evanbb
2-Jun-2009
2:24:38 PM
On 2/06/2009 IdratherbeclimbingM9 wrote:
>My kodak instamatic photos don't do it justice. Do you mind if I download
>your shot?

No, go for it. It's a Public Gallery for just that reason. Wondered what that lump of rock was. It blew my mind from the road, and I stopped and looked longingly across the Valley more than once. Looks like an epic adventure.

IdratherbeclimbingM9
2-Jun-2009
2:42:20 PM
Thanks evanbb.
It is certainly an adventure. More so if you like climbing on choss!
... though Black Perry is completely different rock to the 'cave cliff'. ~> By comparison it is hard/compact and very run-out for pro!

>It blew my mind from the road, and I stopped and looked longingly across the Valley more than once.

It still has that effect on me. Whenever I travel past it I always stop to refresh the memories, though my new found m/cycle partners don't understand the attraction!
There is a better view of it from an old road cutting (now bypassed), near the present 'lookout' which is badly overgrown.

If you ever want to explore in there, I recommend following the ridge-lines and spurs. It is outrageously steep country, and following the creek involves blerrie cold water or densely overgrown banks!
rod
2-Jun-2009
6:02:53 PM
bouldering location shot 2 is nice, looks idyllic evanbb.
bl@ke
2-Jun-2009
6:45:22 PM
im stoked that i got 6 draws and 8 nuts in the mail yesterday plus a free petzl dvd with some wicked aid climbing and stuff on it Thanks steve!
hipster
9-Jun-2009
6:34:39 PM
Got an original 1967 hard-cover of the classic "The Hard Years" by Joe Brown from the wife for my 40th...fricken stoked!!!
It's going straight to the pool room :-)
J.C.
9-Jun-2009
7:45:44 PM
shocked that ado is 40?! you dont look a day older than 16 mate ;)


IdratherbeclimbingM9
10-Jun-2009
4:28:44 PM
I'm stoked that I got to spend another couple of nights in my portaledge over the recent long weekend. Stoked that the fly on it kept the sleet off me too!
Stoked that I got a chance to renew some friendships on that w/end also.
Also stoked that I just got to read (as a premiere edition!), a 'short story' that unexpectedly arrived in my PM box.
It is a good day.
☺☺☺
bl@ke
10-Jun-2009
5:00:40 PM
Im stoked that im going to melb this weekend so im gonna check out some gear at bogong, hope i dont drool all over it.

bl@ke
10-Jun-2009
5:12:32 PM
sounds fun also m9 what do you think about the womb-with-a-view by mountain tools as a porta-hamock ? ;)

IdratherbeclimbingM9
10-Jun-2009
6:04:37 PM
On 10/06/2009 bl@ke wrote:
>sounds fun also m9 what do you think about the womb-with-a-view* by mountain tools as a porta-hamock ? ;)

(*Link provided for others if required).

They would be good for the price. I seriously looked at similar back in the day ...
I ended up making a poor mans version of one and found they are not without their limitations. Certainly better than a normal two-suspension-point hammock but their achillies heel is the cross brace that keeps you off the wall. Unlike an earlier brand/model (can't recall the name at the moment and possibly no longer available), that integrated it above the shoulders to save getting squished by your own bodyweight, if it pivots then part of you rests against the wall. OK in fair weather, but a heat-sap in cold, and water-wick in wet conditions ...
Would be easy enough to improvise a 'fly' for it in my opinion.
If you are not going to do much walling it would meet the need, but then again almost anything is better than spending a night in etts!
bl@ke
10-Jun-2009
6:17:15 PM
Awsome they look pretty good i reckon might get one if i like this aid business. I might get a couple of aiders next and have a bit of a muck around with them, any preferences for aiders? iv been looking at the metolius ladder style ones ever since i saw the two aider method on you tube.
sorry for all these beginer type questions.

IdratherbeclimbingM9
10-Jun-2009
6:27:25 PM
>sorry for all these beginer type questions

~> Probably better Q's in their own threads.

>aiders?

They all work.
Before spending the $'s, I'd make some out of slings girthed together, or tie some out of an appropriate length of webbing. Do a short route at somewhere local (Mt Pilot ?).

Better yet I have extras that you can borrow if we do a day there some time ...

You can even try my home-made 'hammock-seat with a view' !

You may decide the aid-game is not for you, so no point spending money on specialised items when it could go into other items on your growing rack ...
bl@ke
10-Jun-2009
6:43:46 PM
On 10/06/2009 IdratherbeclimbingM9 wrote:
>>sorry for all these beginer type questions
>
>~> Probably better Q's in their own threads.
>
Yes i guess they would be better in there own thread i just thought its not very usfull for anyone else to look at.

>I'd make some out of slings girthed together,

O dang! why didnt i think of that! it seems realy obvious now hehe

>or tie some out of an appropriate length of webbing. Do a short route at
>somewhere local (Mt Pilot ?).
>
>Better yet I have extras that you can borrow if we do a day there some
>time ...
yes it would be realy cool to have a bit of an aid day out. so whenever you feel like it ill be happy to go for a bit of a climb.
>
>You can even try my home-made 'hammock-seat with a view'

could do a multi day ascent of the 25 m aid climb at mt pilot, now that would be some very slow climbing! hehe




bones
12-Jun-2009
12:10:10 PM
I'm stoked that my previously injured shoulder survived a light bouldering session last night. Winter craggin beckons.....

Also stoked that winter turns annoying rain into lovely, lovely snow.
bl@ke
13-Jun-2009
10:08:28 PM
Im stocked having returned from my shopping trip to melbourne with a set of rps, 2 fader quickdraws, 3 wc rocks and the new araps guide book :) All very nice. my rack is starting to take shape.

contactgav
13-Jun-2009
10:31:24 PM
stoked i worked out the sequence for a new project. just got to link it now.

stoked to find the excitement of climbing again after a 2 year lay off!

Sabu
13-Jun-2009
10:32:29 PM
Nice dude, lots of wires is the way to go!

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