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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

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Author
The official stoked thread!

IdratherbeclimbingM9
2-Dec-2009
3:22:26 PM
I am stoked that jacq is stoked on climbing, and that bl@ke has the support for his passion both from family and also cyberfriends.

The recent comments on this thread that some would prefer to be buried have a good thread to be lost in, due no hint in the title, and plenty of posts to sift through...
~> As an aside, I am stoked to continue to see the evolution of the mouse who started it!


Re the thread hijack, this is my last comment to tidy up a loose end.
On 1/12/2009 Wendy wrote:
>Soloing does seem pointless with a rope and gear. It is meant to be about
>freedom and lack of encumbrance isn't it? So what does one gain out of
>soloing when one carries everything that one would do when leading it?

This is one answer amongst many, contained on lots of threads on Chopckstone, regarding a multifaceted subgenre of a pointless but good fun activity we call climbing.
;-)






D.Lodge
3-Dec-2009
10:21:56 AM
Stoked that i climbed another new route at the Youies yesterday. Grade 21 but have no name as yet, it went first shot. Also started work on the seam to its left which will go and maybe on natural gear, but will have too be a "headpoint" as the gear is all crap:)
olbert
4-Dec-2009
6:06:46 PM
Stoked that its finally the weekend after my first week at work!

Not so stoked that I was roped into coming to a 21st instead of going to the Monkey Face:( Not so stoked that I finally found out how full time work actually is:(

Stoked that they are paying my incompetant ass!

wallwombat
6-Dec-2009
1:45:40 PM
Blake, I hope your solo went well, if you have already done it. Low angled granite slabs are a pretty good option to solo, if you are going to solo anything - most of the time if you do come off, you just end up losing skin rather than your life. They are about the only things I will solo.

On 1/12/2009 bl@ke wrote:
>NOW can everyone not tell me what to do and what not to do, Pleeeaaaassseee.

Just one little word of advice. This is an internet climbing forum with lots of opinionated people. If you don't want people to tell you what to do, don't tell them what you are planning on doing. It's got nothing to do with age. I'm 41 and people on this forum still try to tell me what to do too.

In fact, you have inspired me. In a couple of weeks I'm going to walk up to Booroomba and.............................................. ; )

Cheers and best of luck.
hero
6-Dec-2009
2:20:54 PM
Perhaps a reiteration of the first law of frisbees is in order.

"Never precede any action by a statement more predicative than watch this."

rodw
6-Dec-2009
7:54:10 PM
Stoked that I didnt get the leech in todays ridge walk/crag hunt.

BoulderBaby
6-Dec-2009
10:42:29 PM
On 6/12/2009 rodw wrote:
>Stocked that I didnt get the leech in todays ridge walk/crag bunt.


Aww, I'm stocked too.

rodw
7-Dec-2009
8:00:02 AM
Spelling fixed...beer and typing dont mix

IdratherbeclimbingM9
7-Dec-2009
11:57:23 AM
On 6/12/2009 wallwombat wrote:
>I'm 41 and people on this forum still try to tell me what to do too.

... but that's because you need telling.
Heh, heh, heh.

>In fact, you have inspired me. In a couple of weeks I'm going to walk
>up to Booroomba and.............................................. ; )
>
>Cheers and best of luck.
~> to you too!
(Beware. The Booroombas Slabs are steep and slick compared to say, 'The Bleeding Nun', at Buffalo...).
bl@ke
7-Dec-2009
6:49:59 PM
I havnt gone out and soloed it yet.... Its few and far betwwen for me climbing wise.

And good luck WW

wallwombat
7-Dec-2009
8:14:15 PM
On 7/12/2009 IdratherbeclimbingM9 wrote:

>(Beware. The Booroombas Slabs are steep and slick compared to say, 'The
>Bleeding Nun', at Buffalo...).

Not the thing I was thinking of soloing, although I do believe you managed to fall off it.

he he he

IdratherbeclimbingM9
8-Dec-2009
11:28:46 AM
On 7/12/2009 wallwombat wrote:
>Not the thing I was thinking of soloing, although I do believe you managed to fall off it.
>
>he he he

Not so. I fell off the 17 near it. We looked at the iffy weather and my partner (that you lined up), agreed it was probably best to traverse into the easier line to the left (my guess as to your chosen solo route).
Falls are OK when on a rope, and it is now on my unfinished projects list.
It was a good day.

I wouldn't mind doing solo on the line you have your eye on. I have heard of others doing similar, so I guess it is the trade solo route there.

MonkeyBoy
13-Dec-2009
7:08:23 PM
Totally stoked I lead my first trad climb today - Have done a few with a top rope safety but this was the real deal. Crack of Dawn at barrenjoey up a well protectable crack and then onto a face where the protection gets a bit more sparce but the climbing is easy. Grade 15.

SWEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEET !


gordoste
13-Dec-2009
8:31:35 PM
nice! that's one of the first crags i ever went to, and i have good memories of sitting on top looking at the peninsula,... beautiful spot!

wallwombat
13-Dec-2009
8:37:54 PM
Do they still chrrge $87 to park there?

MonkeyBoy
14-Dec-2009
11:48:46 AM
On 13/12/2009 wallwombat wrote:
>Do they still chrrge $87 to park there?

Yes, yes they do.

IdratherbeclimbingM9
14-Dec-2009
12:19:42 PM
On 13/12/2009 MonkeyBoy wrote:
>Totally stoked I lead my first trad climb today - Have done a few with
>a top rope safety but this was the real deal. Crack of Dawn at barrenjoey
>up a well protectable crack and then onto a face where the protection gets
>a bit more sparce but the climbing is easy. Grade 15.
>
>SWEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEET !
>
>

I am well stoked for you MB, as this climb holds special memories for me as well.

Mates of mine put that route up, and a week or so later I did a repeat ascent, with the first ascentionist belaying me. *
It used to be less well protectable, as in those days it went up before slcds were available/common, and most early ascents of it were just on nuts and hexes.
I distinctly remember having a large hex finagled into the flared horizontal portion of the crack where it dog-legs. I did not get much pro of substance above it but thought that big piece was ŻOK, until half way through doing the unprotected direct topout on the slab (above right, ... to the highest point), above of where the original line topped out.
~> This may have been the first time I was ever truly concerned for my safety while lead climbing, as I did not trust that piece to hold a fall of that magnitude, and reckoned I was looking at a grounder if I fell, if indeed this did not happen anyway due the length of the runout I was experiencing above it.
~> The absolute euphoric feeling I had on successfully climbing through the physical and mental commitment I set myself there (and getting away with it); I strongly suspect, has been the embryonic hook that has kept me climbing ever since...

>this was the real deal. Crack of Dawn at barrenjoey

For at least two of us!!

[Post edit; I know that B. Goddard as first ascentionist, was extremely chuffed with the line as well !].




(* Did not cost to park there then, in fact 4wd's used to park up near the headland at the end of the sand.)


wallwombat
14-Dec-2009
12:30:54 PM
On 14/12/2009 IdratherbeclimbingM9 wrote:

>(* Did not cost to park there then, in fact 4wd's used to park up near
>the headland at the end of the sand.)


I didn't know they had automobiles back then. Cool.

MonkeyBoy
14-Dec-2009
12:56:41 PM
>>
>
>I am well stoked for you MB, as this climb holds special memories for
>me as well.
>
>Mates of mine put that route up, and a week or so later I did a repeat
>ascent, with the first ascentionist belaying me. *
>It used to be less well protectable, as in those days it went up before
>slcds were available/common, and most early ascents of it were just on
>nuts and hexes.
>I distinctly remember having a large hex finagled into the flared horizontal
>portion of the crack where it dog-legs. I did not get much pro of substance
>above it but thought that big piece was ŻOK, until half way through doing the
>unprotected direct topout on the slab (above right, ... to the highest point), above
>of where the original line topped out.

>~> This may have been the first time I was ever truly concerned for my
>safety while lead climbing, as I did not trust that piece to hold a fall
>of that magnitude, and reckoned I was looking at a grounder if I fell,
>if indeed this did not happen anyway due the length of the runout I was
>experiencing above it.
>~> The absolute euphoric feeling I had on successfully climbing through
>the physical and mental commitment I set myself there (and getting away
>with it); I strongly suspect, has been the embryonic hook that has kept
>me climbing ever since...
>
>>this was the real deal. Crack of Dawn at barrenjoey
>
>For at least two of us!!


Nice one M9. I can totally see how the top half of this climb would be really hard to protect once the crack peters out and if SLCD's were not the norm.

I was really glad with the climb, zipped up the first section on the crack using SLCD's, Hexes and a couple of nuts and then the top half did get the pulse racing somewhat especially the last mantle to the ring bolts - Exactly as you describe - worried about being above the pro ( i was no where near as run out as you were) and then elated when safely topped out.

It is such an amazing view to top out to as well and the weather was perfect, all in all a great day
Duncan
14-Dec-2009
2:05:16 PM
I think Barrenjoey is a pretty underrated crag.

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