General Climbing Discussion

Author	The official stoked thread!
ambyeok 15-Sep-2009 8:29:50 PM	Sarah, check out Cranky Babies wall when summer hits, its a great place to hide from the sun with short non-pumpy routes (and a stones throw from agent orange)
Duncan 15-Sep-2009 9:58:12 PM	Is Agent Orange kind of on it's own, with chains at the top? If so, I thought it was pretty hard for 15. How has no one suggested Lamplighter? Mind you, anything at Araps with a star is likely to be cracking.
ambyeok 15-Sep-2009 10:06:11 PM	On 15/09/2009 Duncan wrote: >Is Agent Orange kind of on it's own, with chains at the top? If so, I >thought it was pretty hard for 15. How has no one suggested Lamplighter? > Mind you, anything at Araps with a star is likely to be cracking. Agent Orange... yeah, I thought the same, its a bit balancy when you move back left. But Sarah will be cranking come summer.
Paz 16-Sep-2009 10:17:57 AM	surface to air and aggamenon(?) are good suggestions, beautiful possibilities is more balancy than strength driven, with really good wires when needed....
dr box 16-Sep-2009 10:37:17 AM	is stoked because i'm off to the pines for the next 3ish weeks!
Wendy 16-Sep-2009 4:28:37 PM	On 16/09/2009 Paz wrote: >surface to air and aggamenon(?) are good suggestions, beautiful possibilities >is more balancy than strength driven, with really good wires when needed.... Given Sarah's falling off the top of D Minor on 2nd, she could kill herself trying to lead Surface to Air. But it would be a good thing to 2nd to develop the aforementioned upper body strength.
Duncan 16-Sep-2009 5:30:59 PM	What's the route that used to be 15 just left of Surface to Air? That's one big rest - I think it gets 13 in the new guide? Use the old guide and call it a 15 tick.
Sarah Gara 16-Sep-2009 5:53:06 PM	On 16/09/2009 Wendy wrote: >Given Sarah's falling off the top of D Minor on 2nd, she could kill herself >trying to lead Surface to Air. yeah defo don't want to do that! Thanks guys - I have been looking at arachnus so think i may do that one.. but gonna go with the flow... I went to hang at the community centre bars after the cinema last night and could only do like (sorry sol) 10 seconds... lasat week I could do 30 - think I overdid it a bit on D minor - my arms and back are a bit sore so gonna take it easy this weekend - although reckon I'lll second sol on sunday on necrophiliac. Thanks for advice re onsights - i don't suppose it matters too much. I'll have a look at the routes you've all suggested when I get home. and I'll let you know what I eventually decided to fall off! x
D.Lodge 16-Sep-2009 8:05:52 PM	Stoked i got back to the youies for some bouldering did 5 classsic problems this morning, and no, no slabs or pebble pinching at all. Steepish with holds woohoo
Sarah Gara 17-Sep-2009 8:03:14 PM	24hrs til the weekend whoop whoop x
Desk Monkey 17-Sep-2009 8:40:35 PM	On 17/09/2009 Sarah Gara wrote: >24hrs til the weekend whoop whoop x I'll 2nd that, with bells on.
dalai 17-Sep-2009 9:20:19 PM	On 16/09/2009 D.Lodge wrote: >Stoked i got back to the youies for some bouldering did 5 classsic problems >this morning, and no, no slabs or pebble pinching at all. Steepish with >holds woohoo Nice! Which area?
Paz 17-Sep-2009 11:14:40 PM	On 16/09/2009 Wendy wrote: >Given Sarah's falling off the top of D Minor on 2nd, she could kill herself >trying to lead Surface to Air. But it would be a good thing to 2nd to >develop the aforementioned upper body strength. aH, you're quite right....i was thinking of the 13 to the left
JimboV10 18-Sep-2009 7:47:54 AM	On 17/09/2009 dalai wrote: >On 16/09/2009 D.Lodge wrote: >>Stoked i got back to the youies for some bouldering did 5 classsic problems >>this morning, and no, no slabs or pebble pinching at all. Steepish with >>holds woohoo > >Nice! Which area? None! There is nothing good in the Youies!! * Goes and packs the car for a weekend bouldering in the Grampians *
dalai 18-Sep-2009 9:17:39 AM	On 18/09/2009 JimboV10 wrote: >None! There is nothing good in the Youies!! I disagree... There are quite a few good little areas in the park - and with as much rock that exists you can be selective and climb on the better lines. Stoked though you have a great weekend planned.
JimboV10 18-Sep-2009 10:17:40 AM	On 18/09/2009 dalai wrote: >On 18/09/2009 JimboV10 wrote: >>None! There is nothing good in the Youies!! > >I disagree... There are quite a few good little areas in the park - and >with as much rock that exists you can be selective and climb on the better >lines. > >Stoked though you have a great weekend planned. Want to show me some choice lines?
wallwombat 18-Sep-2009 10:33:05 AM	Smoked that I caught the Laughing Clowns Live at The Basement last night on ABC. It was unreal. I wish I'd been at the gig. Ed Kuepper looks pretty old but the rest of the band look like they the only rocking they should be doing is in a chair. Crickey! It sent me diving through all my old vinyl until I remembered I don't own a record player anymore. Will have to buy some of their CDs. I realise that 95% of people on Chockstone have absolutely no idea who I am talking about. Still stoked but.
dalai 18-Sep-2009 11:15:28 AM	JimboV10 , best to ask D.Lodge who has with Goshen have spent a good deal of time out there bouldering... I've personally spent a fair amount of time on the hill around Lust Buttress developed originally by Jon the Pom (a few photos are posted in the gallery). Either side of the now closed road just before the old Saddle Carpark was the first area in the You Yangs developed and has lines up to V9... The boulders below the NW outcrop are quite good too.
D.Lodge 18-Sep-2009 11:26:24 AM	Yeah dalai, the saddle carpark area has some great lines there. That is where is was on wednesday (i thought it was just me and goshen who knew about this lol) but have done some great stuff out at NW outcrop as well. Will have to check out the area near lust buttress now as well. I love exploring.
JimboV10 18-Sep-2009 11:28:06 AM	On 18/09/2009 D.Lodge wrote: >Yeah dalai, the saddle carpark area has some great lines there. That is >where is was on wednesday (i thought it was just me and goshen who knew >about this lol) but have done some great stuff out at NW outcrop as well. >Will have to check out the area near lust buttress now as well. I love >exploring. Well if Dalai has given it the nod Rich, I'm up for a mission...

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