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Chockstone Photography
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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

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Author
The official stoked thread!
BA
15-Sep-2009
5:37:27 PM
On 15/09/2009 gordoste wrote:
It sounds like you'd
>be fine on Panzer's first pitch which has one balancy move but the third
>pitch is long, ever so slightly overhanging and quite exposed. I would
>not recommend leading that pitch.

I dunno how many times I've done Panzer but I've only ever done the third pitch once (and I led it).

>I'm surprised no-one's suggested Megalomaniac, it's a really nice grade
>14 crack and as the guidebook points out, you don't even have to jam! And
>it takes great gear.

I concur, but if you can jam it makes it seem a bit easier.

ambyeok
15-Sep-2009
8:26:25 PM
On 15/09/2009 noclimberboys wrote:
>On 15/09/2009 widewetandslippery wrote:
>>you lot are great, who else could go for stoked to arseholing so seemingly.
>>
>Oh I know, it was abit harsh yeah? Didn't mean to sound attacking, just
>not so good on the internet communication thing.. but it's out there now,
>waiting for amybeok to reply.

Ha ha, dont worry noclimberboys, im pretty sure slippery was talking about me. Ok, yeah, you got me, 18 is actually pretty much my onsight limit... no I dont think thats any great accomplishment, scan back through my posts and you definately wont find any big noting.

As for the onsight starts at 18, thats my personal feeling, for me I felt that was the grade where I had to really apply some technique and training. Below that I wasnt going to attempt anything that I might fall off. Its pretty much my own subjective opinion and seeing as I was in an opinionated mood I slung it out there. Personally im gonna continue to try real hard not to fall off anything below 18 as its an injury prone occupation (wild assumptions about grade = steepness). So call me half troll half wanker and we pretty much hit the nail.

"You cant onsight everything"? That means dont worry about the onsights... "Onsight starts at 18"? means dont worry about the onsights. The message here is dont worry about the onsights. As has already been said seconding is great learning. You cant onsight everything because climbing is a partnership. Subjective opinions notwithstanding, hell yeah, onsight grade 8 great, onsight grade 38 great, its all about pushing your limit right?

ambyeok
15-Sep-2009
8:29:50 PM
Sarah, check out Cranky Babies wall when summer hits, its a great place to hide from the sun with short non-pumpy routes (and a stones throw from agent orange)
Duncan
15-Sep-2009
9:58:12 PM
Is Agent Orange kind of on it's own, with chains at the top? If so, I thought it was pretty hard for 15. How has no one suggested Lamplighter? Mind you, anything at Araps with a star is likely to be cracking.

ambyeok
15-Sep-2009
10:06:11 PM
On 15/09/2009 Duncan wrote:
>Is Agent Orange kind of on it's own, with chains at the top? If so, I
>thought it was pretty hard for 15. How has no one suggested Lamplighter?
> Mind you, anything at Araps with a star is likely to be cracking.

Agent Orange... yeah, I thought the same, its a bit balancy when you move back left. But Sarah will be cranking come summer.
Paz
16-Sep-2009
10:17:57 AM
surface to air and aggamenon(?) are good suggestions, beautiful possibilities is more balancy than strength driven, with really good wires when needed....

dr box
16-Sep-2009
10:37:17 AM
is stoked because i'm off to the pines for the next 3ish weeks!
Wendy
16-Sep-2009
4:28:37 PM
On 16/09/2009 Paz wrote:
>surface to air and aggamenon(?) are good suggestions, beautiful possibilities
>is more balancy than strength driven, with really good wires when needed....

Given Sarah's falling off the top of D Minor on 2nd, she could kill herself trying to lead Surface to Air. But it would be a good thing to 2nd to develop the aforementioned upper body strength.
Duncan
16-Sep-2009
5:30:59 PM
What's the route that used to be 15 just left of Surface to Air? That's one big rest - I think it gets 13 in the new guide? Use the old guide and call it a 15 tick.

Sarah Gara
16-Sep-2009
5:53:06 PM
On 16/09/2009 Wendy wrote:

>Given Sarah's falling off the top of D Minor on 2nd, she could kill herself
>trying to lead Surface to Air.

yeah defo don't want to do that!

Thanks guys - I have been looking at arachnus so think i may do that one.. but gonna go with the flow... I went to hang at the community centre bars after the cinema last night and could only do like (sorry sol) 10 seconds... lasat week I could do 30 - think I overdid it a bit on D minor - my arms and back are a bit sore so gonna take it easy this weekend - although reckon I'lll second sol on sunday on necrophiliac.

Thanks for advice re onsights - i don't suppose it matters too much.

I'll have a look at the routes you've all suggested when I get home. and I'll let you know what I eventually decided to fall off! x

D.Lodge
16-Sep-2009
8:05:52 PM
Stoked i got back to the youies for some bouldering did 5 classsic problems this morning, and no, no slabs or pebble pinching at all. Steepish with holds woohoo

Sarah Gara
17-Sep-2009
8:03:14 PM
24hrs til the weekend whoop whoop x

Desk Monkey
17-Sep-2009
8:40:35 PM
On 17/09/2009 Sarah Gara wrote:
>24hrs til the weekend whoop whoop x

I'll 2nd that, with bells on.
dalai
17-Sep-2009
9:20:19 PM
On 16/09/2009 D.Lodge wrote:
>Stoked i got back to the youies for some bouldering did 5 classsic problems
>this morning, and no, no slabs or pebble pinching at all. Steepish with
>holds woohoo

Nice! Which area?
Paz
17-Sep-2009
11:14:40 PM
On 16/09/2009 Wendy wrote:
>Given Sarah's falling off the top of D Minor on 2nd, she could kill herself
>trying to lead Surface to Air. But it would be a good thing to 2nd to
>develop the aforementioned upper body strength.

aH, you're quite right....i was thinking of the 13 to the left

JimboV10
18-Sep-2009
7:47:54 AM
On 17/09/2009 dalai wrote:
>On 16/09/2009 D.Lodge wrote:
>>Stoked i got back to the youies for some bouldering did 5 classsic problems
>>this morning, and no, no slabs or pebble pinching at all. Steepish with
>>holds woohoo
>
>Nice! Which area?

None! There is nothing good in the Youies!!

* Goes and packs the car for a weekend bouldering in the Grampians *
dalai
18-Sep-2009
9:17:39 AM
On 18/09/2009 JimboV10 wrote:
>None! There is nothing good in the Youies!!

I disagree... There are quite a few good little areas in the park - and with as much rock that exists you can be selective and climb on the better lines.

Stoked though you have a great weekend planned.

JimboV10
18-Sep-2009
10:17:40 AM
On 18/09/2009 dalai wrote:
>On 18/09/2009 JimboV10 wrote:
>>None! There is nothing good in the Youies!!
>
>I disagree... There are quite a few good little areas in the park - and
>with as much rock that exists you can be selective and climb on the better
>lines.
>
>Stoked though you have a great weekend planned.

Want to show me some choice lines?

wallwombat
18-Sep-2009
10:33:05 AM
Smoked that I caught the Laughing Clowns Live at The Basement last night on ABC.

It was unreal. I wish I'd been at the gig. Ed Kuepper looks pretty old but the rest of the band look like they the only rocking they should be doing is in a chair. Crickey!

It sent me diving through all my old vinyl until I remembered I don't own a record player anymore. Will have to buy some of their CDs.

I realise that 95% of people on Chockstone have absolutely no idea who I am talking about.

Still stoked but.
dalai
18-Sep-2009
11:15:28 AM
JimboV10 , best to ask D.Lodge who has with Goshen have spent a good deal of time out there bouldering...

I've personally spent a fair amount of time on the hill around Lust Buttress developed originally by Jon the Pom (a few photos are posted in the gallery).

Either side of the now closed road just before the old Saddle Carpark was the first area in the You Yangs developed and has lines up to V9... The boulders below the NW outcrop are quite good too.

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