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General Climbing Discussion

Author

Open Projects ??

Robin

22-Oct-2003
6:11:52 PM

Any time you want a belay at the Loddon Falls I'm only a stones throw away. I live (in a shed) only 2km's away. I checked out that wall left of Fear of Choss about 18 months ago and I thought it had good potential for a climb.

Peter

29-Oct-2003
2:54:24 AM

Hey DK, sorry about the delay in getting back to you but shit happens.
I see your point about old ethics, although I tend to disagree. I dont think technical advances are breaking those ethics, attitudes do.

Back to the climb, as I think this climb may be a 24 at the most, there are many out there who are capable, and game enough to solo it, or they have more skills than I in placing gear and they may have protected it.

When it all boils down though, I dont care if some one has got up it b4 me, as long as I find out what it is graded at.

If I really wanted the fame, I would slink up a piece of choss well below my limit and claim that aye!

Back to the bitch, well yeah, ownership could be shortened, but there is a whole bunch of unimaginative arseholes out there that think climbing is numbers, and if they can do a climb that a legend lead and set, they are also legends. A small number of people spend the time and money setting new routes, the rests, like me, follow.INHO most climbers compete against themselves and the rock, not other climbers, let the setters have their routes, and find your own.

Gee I really didnt want to get this political.


Donut King

29-Oct-2003
12:43:24 PM

>Hey DK, sorry about the delay in getting back to you but shit happens.

no worries, i wasnt freting too much.

I agree with your comment on the attitudes and agree, after all elthic are entwined with attitudes.

Again the concept pf mandating a "set" lenght of time to complete any FA of a route is just too hard to deal with, its the concept of "i bolt therefor its mine, until i do it or hand it over". Our discussions wont change anything, but it is proving to be an interesting discussion. I do see (beleive it or not) the view from the other side. I have spoken to a few guys who are active bolters on the topic with mixed reactions. When an incident happened like the one a few years ago (cant remember the route) where the bolter got so upset that the choose to deface the rock as someone "stole" thier route, well i guess it does all come down to attitude like you said.

As i said before i dont go out and climb routes that are "projects", i tend to stick to the guide book as most others do, there are far too many classics to climb.

Hope theweather fines up for the w/e for you, let us know how yougo.

Cheers

dk


Rock Weasel

31-Oct-2003
4:12:26 PM

The answer is simple, I think. Clib anything you want, but if it is a project, don't claim the first ascent. If someone else wants their name in the guidebook that badly, let them write it up. If I climbed something that was a project and I topped out, I wouldn't bother with claiming it, or even telling anyone else. Thus, the equipper's ego is not harmed.


nmonteith

31-Oct-2003
4:28:30 PM

Again i will make the point that my routes with red tags on it may still be half bolted or dangerous. On the day i started bolting it i may have forgotten the right amount of bolts, the glue batch might have been bad, a huge death block might still be lurking halfway up ect ect.

Climbing redtag projects is a bit like using a rope you found in the $2 Salavation Army bin. You climb them at your own risk.


Rock Weasel

31-Oct-2003
5:16:18 PM

Very true Neil. The potential hazards of ascending such a route need to be considered by the climber who intends to attempt the project. As guidebooks frequently state, 'Inspect and test fixed gear, and use at your own risk.'


IdratherbeclimbingM9

31-Oct-2003
5:34:14 PM

On 31/10/2003 Rock Weasel wrote:
> As guidebooks frequently state, 'Inspect and test fixed gear, and use at your own risk.'

If the climb is that 'new' it would not be in any guidebook ... (aka nmonteith's red tagged jobs).


Rock Weasel

2-Nov-2003
2:57:57 PM

Another good reason not to climb a project...Unless you know something about bolting (which I do not).

There are 68 messages in this topic.