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General Climbing Discussion

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crack climbs

tastybigmac

9-Aug-2006
12:36:37 PM

stick your finger/hand/fist/foot in the crack and twist. sometimes it hurts a bit, but it usually gets me up!

patto

9-Aug-2006
7:05:51 PM

On 9/08/2006 tastybigmac wrote:
>stick your finger/hand/fist/foot in the crack and twist. sometimes it hurts
>a bit, but it usually gets me up!

I've heard that it gets you slapped!

SirOinksALot

9-Aug-2006
9:40:10 PM

Bonnie
Anybody who tells you to practice crack climbing at araps hasn't climbed cracks.
Go climbing at frog, you get to practice all techniques on the one route!!
They always finish as an off width!

SirOinksALot

9-Aug-2006
10:13:21 PM

On 9/08/2006 SirOinksALot wrote:
>Bonnie
>Anybody who tells you to practice crack climbing at araps hasn't climbed
>cracks.
>Go climbing at frog, you get to practice all techniques on the one route!!
>They always finish as an off width!

Edit:
Forget the gloves or tap.
Losing skin is the fastest way to develop technique.

simey

9-Aug-2006
11:52:09 PM

On 9/08/2006 Phil Box wrote:
>Try climbing cracks barefoot, it is a liberating experience and not as bad as it sounds. I'll see if I can dig up a pic.

I suggest the barefoot approach on 'Where Angels Fear to Tread' (17) at Mt Buffalo for the full liberating experience.

Although I find it hard to believe, I am under the impression that the late Fred From actually soloed Angels barefoot - surely one of the most impressive, yet crazy ascents ever done in Australia.


Phil Box

10-Aug-2006
8:22:05 PM

Phil Box barefoot climbing Materialistic Prostitution at Frog Buttress. This was also my 3rd climb ever which way back in the day I also did barefoot.

Full size pic here on rc.com.

rod

11-Aug-2006
1:57:55 AM

3rd ever, on trad and barefoot...gotta be some kind of record.

crazyjohn

11-Aug-2006
6:29:11 AM

WHAT??! Angels barefoot? Ive heard that HB use to do it in like an hour or something solo. THAT I believe. Barefoot? The whole thing is one long T-Bar. Does the guy even have feet? Maybe hes like that hard climbing american amputee who has like inspector gadget leg attachments for different crack sizes.... At any rate, he wouldnt have any feet after doing angels barefeet. I will agree that if he did climb it barefoot its an impressive ascent(not saying I believe it). Are you sure his name isnt Fred Flintstone?

>I suggest the barefoot approach on 'Where Angels Fear to Tread' (17) at
>Mt Buffalo for the full liberating experience.
>
>Although I find it hard to believe, I am under the impression that the
>late Fred From actually soloed Angels barefoot - surely one of the most
>impressive, yet crazy ascents ever done in Australia.
>

11-Aug-2006
11:35:32 AM

I have also heard that the late Fred From did Angels barefoot. If you know what you doing Angel's cracks aren't too bad at all, I've been on worse.

drdeviousii

11-Aug-2006
11:58:32 AM

Fred From was well known in his day for bold, hard climbs (& party tricks), & for climbing in bare feet.

Darrren

11-Aug-2006
3:50:43 PM

On 7/08/2006 drdeviousii wrote:
>
>WTF?? dude what cracks have you been climbing?? hands & feet are nearly
>always closer together when jamBing, especially when compared to face climbing.
> Jambs are more secure when they are head/shoulder level. Phil's not sandabgging
>here!!

Real Ones

Ben lomond, Flinders Island, Fingal Vally

And Sharp ones

Mt Blackwood

I have seen strong climbers make the mistake of laybacking when they could jam and the falling as a result a lot of times...

estherrenita_

12-Aug-2006
12:57:38 AM

If you are going to Arapiles then i would recommend the following:
Necrophilliac (14)
then Siamese Crack (15)
then French Crack (16)

and if you are in the Grampians, Black Ian's Rocks has a great variety of crack climbing often mixed with corners which can be great for building confidence and experience because you can put weight on your feet while placing gear and figuring out what this jamming business is about.
Time on rock is the only answer.
es.


gordoste

13-Aug-2006
9:44:06 PM

necrophiliac is the one i really meant when i said megalomaniac was sandbagged... would still be hard for the grade if it was 15. imho of course

There are 33 messages in this topic.