General Climbing Discussion

Author	Havachatwithhexy...
HEX 30-Mar-2005 2:52:10 PM	----------------------------------------- On 19/03/2005 HEX wrote: >............... > >Utah-Desert-tower/Eiger-Direct, LEGEND, Layton Kor ... ................. Freakyspooky !!! --- awesome timing Hexy ... CLIMBING.COM - HOT FLASHES 25 March 2005 >Finger of Fate Goes Free >Britons Ben Bransby and Pete Robbins have freed the classic Finger of Fate route on >Utah's Titan . The Finger of Fate was the original >route on the 800-foot giant of the Fisher Towers, established in 1962 by George >Hurley, Huntley Ingalls and Layton Kor. Englishman Stevie Haston attempted to free >the route in 1996 but was unwilling to risk falls onto the 34-year-old bolts of the final >two pitches. Haston returned several years later and completed the first free ascent of >the Titan via the Sundevil Chimney. >The Finger of Fate was rebolted in 2004, opening it to further free attempts. Bransby >and Robbins reportedly found climbing up to 5.12c on the eight-pitch climb, which is >cleaner than most of the muddy Fisher Towers routes because of its relative popularity >as one of the Fifty Classic Climbs of North America. Hurley's TR in National Geographic is an absolute classic ... well worth rum-arj-ing around in 2nd hand bookshops to get the GOLD on this one ... --------------------------
HEX 30-Mar-2005 3:04:59 PM	----------------------------- dalai Online Now 30/03/2005 >Some topics are starting to read like an episode of Days of our (high school) Lives. >Please use the PM functionality for social banter between friends to save us from the >pubescent angst... Snigger ---> LOL !! ................................. cheesehead 1/03/2005 >Whoah, Dalai has a little less hair than when I saw him last. Anyone'd think he got a >real job... dalai 1/03/2005 >Thanks Cheesehead! >Isn't aging great... hair starts growing everywhere you don't want it to and doesn't >where you do... Sabu etal's exuberant-cyber-lotion might be just the thing you need:P ------------------------------------
HEX 30-Mar-2005 4:45:36 PM	------------------------------ >This is the 30,000th Chockstone post... Wrong again four-legged-grass-hopper ... that stat' shall remain a cyber-mystery forever ... factor in all the GOLD deposited by Kent ... and even the Simey-pressured-self-deletions of Little Mac & Steph ... ------------------------------
IdratherbeclimbingM9 30-Mar-2005 4:52:54 PM	Just going by the number ticking over at the bottom of the Forum Page, so the face value of it, is the measure. You are right about the cyber-mystery when it comes to deletions, retro-edits etc, ... however many of them remain, even though they are 'contentless'? Got over your grumpy-fit yet, or didyahavyatoughiesforbreaky?
HEX 30-Mar-2005 4:59:54 PM	M8isery-gutz buffer zone... -------------------------------------- -------------------------------------- > I'm a Pines Rat anyway, can't beat that historical air. Guess I'll just have to huddle with a Pine Cone or something............... Thatzfunny ! ... reminds me of this speck of gold : Topic Date User Why do I have to wear my Tshirt at the gym Wednesday, 10 November 2004, elmo_lives : >Well you got me on that one. I think I need something better to do with my life. >I mean, posting utter donkey crap is fun and all, but I think I’d rather be >A lumberjack. Just try to remember me the way I was... ----------------------------------- ----------------------------------- M-g-b-z
IdratherbeclimbingM9 30-Mar-2005 5:01:34 PM	Shin Toe Warrior said; On 6/02/2005 HEX wrote: >At best WTC provides access to Skink ... similar to that nice feeling >of sitting on the dunny, after enduring the tormenting experience of 'giving >birth' to the initial, gnarly, hardened-section of the stool ... > This suggests two things: 1. Stop racking cams up your arse, It may be bomber and you always know where it is when you need one, but it's better to use a padded gear sling 2. Hexy old son, you need more fibre in your diet. Eat some steamed brown rice, for f---'s sake
HEX 30-Mar-2005 5:09:23 PM	& as usual, AIDdax couldn't grasp the irony ... -------------------------------- -------------------------------- OK all you am-ett-ers : '...Superglue Stitches Handy home and emergency alternative to sutures For years midwives have been using over-the-counter superglue to "suture" perineal tears after birth. It's better than stitches. Veteran backpackers have been known to pack a tiny tube of super glue for emergency repairs of deep cuts in places where there is no doctor. Superglue is ethyl-cyanoacrylate. While fine for small cuts, it has several weaknesses when used as a substitute for heavy-duty suturing. An improved version, butyl-cyanoacrylate was developed for heavier surgical repairs, and this stuff was used widely in the Vietnam War to patch up soldiers in the field. Butyl-cyanoacrylate is a little more flexible on a wound than commercial superglue, generates fewer toxic byproducts, and is now commonly used by vets to repair animal wounds. You can buy the stuff as 3M Vetbond. This is also what midwives have started using. In 2000, the FDA approved a new version of tissue adhesive for human use, sold as Dermabond. This new composition, octyl-cyanoacrylate, is a longer chain, still more flexible, and possess the yet-unexplained ability to inhibit bacterial growth -- a godsend in surgery. It's strong enough that it will likely replace a lot of suturing altogether someday. Small quantities of octyl-cyanoacrylate are sold to non-medicals for "research purposes" -- it's the genuine stuff, only in dispensers that aren't sterilized, and therefore not approved for human use (only animal use). To use any cyanoacrylate on a wound, keep it on the surface layer of skin, not down in the well of the wound - imagine you are taping the top of the wound together. The glue sloughs off by itself in time. Despite all the improvements of cyanoacrylate, small amounts of hardware store superglue will work in a pinch. I know a physician who uses ordinary superglue at home on his kid's cuts. A vial of Vetbond would be even better. It's dyed blue so you can easily see where it is on the skin and where it is not, and it is made for cuts...' Luv Dr HEX ... -----------------------------
HEX 30-Mar-2005 5:21:55 PM	http://www.outdoorsmagic.com/news/images/tnralston.jpg Statistics: 1000 posts. Started 26 new topics, 974 replies. 1 Media Reviews Yep ! --- goodonya, bro --- & a worthy topic-started to kilometer-stone it ... I would havta say that the cyborg-factor will be the next big ingredient for the future of climbing ... bio-mechanics & a politically-correct re-assessment of the deliniation between aid & free climbing ... ------------------------------- Topic Date User THE AUSTRALIAN RE, RETRO-BOLTING OPEN FORUM Wednesday, 4 February 2004,Dalai : >I second Phil's comments. No credibility can be given to someone who uses the >anonymity of the untitled user and has clearly joined in the quest to intentionally troll >for reactions. Go to rockclimbing.com and start a flame war there. You will fit right in! >In regards to your response to my previous comments. If the original aboriginal land >holders have concerns, I think you will find they are not whether fixed protection is >placed, but that we are there full stop. >This is my final reply to your diatribe Vex. Not worth the trouble. >Martin -not your Luv (sic) bro or dude Sooooo glad Hexy could help ya cross da line,today, by inciting classics like this ! ---- itz been quite a etc,etc,etc... Hey bro ! --- I luv ya attitude, dude ! Luv HEX;-)) ---------------------------------
HEX 30-Mar-2005 7:31:48 PM	---------------------------- rhinckle 30/03/2005 >i like to have my belay knife hanging around my neck at all times. >(the original yates screamer?)... Probably not ... PunkyHexy usta have a razor-blade attached to da ear-ring ... -----------------------------
HEX 30-Mar-2005 7:33:12 PM	--------------------------- rhinckle 30/03/2005 >the next wave is chipping holds off. >stripping 'classic' climbs of their holds to keep them interesting and new. >(don't need new guidbooks, just a pen to change the grades.) >when all the holds are gone, the bolts will then be pulled. >there will be only 30 plus routes, which will be solo onsight only. >it's going to get quite exciting. >everyone else will be down the bottom watching and who will be climbing? GordyP ? ... :P ------------------------------------
climbau 31-Mar-2005 8:45:52 AM	On 30/03/2005 HEX wrote: >------------------------------ >>This is the 30,000th Chockstone post... > >Wrong again four-legged-grass-hopper ... that stat' shall remain a cyber-mystery >forever ... factor in all the GOLD deposited by Kent ... and even the Simey-pressured-self >deletions of Little Mac & Steph ... >------------------------------ > It is my understanding Hexy that deleted posts are still counted in the number of posts. For whilst the post no longer exists it did at one time exist and was therefore counted. Can Mike confirm or deny this????
LittleMac 31-Mar-2005 9:26:02 AM	Hey Hex when are we going to see some poetic gems from yourself. Everyone else seems to be getting into the spirit of it.
sabu 31-Mar-2005 10:11:24 AM	na if u delete a post ur count goes down, that happened to me !!
climbau 1-Apr-2005 8:13:24 AM	On 31/03/2005 sabu wrote: >na if u delete a post ur count goes down, that happened to me !! Cool, no probs, that's good enuff 4 me
IdratherbeclimbingM9 1-Apr-2005 10:06:04 AM	On 1/04/2005 climbau wrote: >On 31/03/2005 sabu wrote: >>na if u delete a post ur count goes down, that happened to me !! >Cool, no probs, that's good enuff 4 me I agree with sabu that the individuals post count goes down for sure, but I don't know about the 'running total' on the title page. Your 1st theory may hold good for it?
HEX 2-Apr-2005 9:05:27 AM	>~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ >nmonteith- thats been discussed before blah blah..... >buffer zone >~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ >(thanks for the inspiration hex ;)) Snigger ... ................................ Richard 2/04/2005 >the poll options are a bit balck and white aren't they? all or nothing. >how about: >I chalk-up before almost every hold >I use chalk on every climb but only on the crux holds >I only use chalk if it is really slimy >I carry chalk but really try and aviod using it >I don't even carry chalk Not just yet,Dicko --- leave the q.p.analysis poll-options for later ... the two option thingy is providing quite a revelation vsv previous assumptions that maybe 'everyone' uses chalk ... -------------------------------------------
HEX 2-Apr-2005 1:53:48 PM	------------------------ Phil Box 31/03/2005 >Check out this Jump pic, the photographer has captured the fluidity of movement in a >rather unique way... Alberts Tomb has 3 options : 1) Sport : Grade 27 fridge-hugging... 2) Aid : Expanding-tied-off-knife-blades-crack... 3) Just the right amount of slack ... ----------------------------------
HEX 2-Apr-2005 2:09:10 PM	------------------------------------- ------------------------------------- Phil Box 31/03/2005 >Speaking of stats the haveachatwithhexy thread is nearing its 1,000th post. >Congrats to all who make this site an excellent resource for Australian climbing. Golf >clap (pat pat pat, muffled clapping with gloved hands). M8iswhereitsat 31/03/2005 >Yes; another milestone in the making. >Hexy is no slouch in the posting dpt either. If you combine his/her former self (Hex->Troll) s/he is up to 886 posts now; and that thread certainly has had the most 'views' >at 36465 ~> which is a significant testimony to its popularity. >I also find it useful as a filter of the whole Chockstone site as it allows easy catch up if >you've have been away and have heaps of posts unread, or don't have much time to >peruse after logging in... Alrightalready !!! --- enuf of the suck job... Topic Date User THE AUSTRALIAN RE, RETRO-BOLTING OPEN FORUM Thursday, 8 April 2004, hex-TROLL to A5 : >Well done making it thru the vexatious chicanes today , bro---the pent-house is yorz... As long as ya THINK carefully, M8 ... Conditional Luv, HEX ... ----------------------------------
HEX 2-Apr-2005 2:19:23 PM	---------------------------- Damos 16/03/2005 >Sheesh, what an awesome road trip concept - to free all of hot henry's tick list in >Australia... JBM 16/03/2005 >That's the idea.... Henry Barber 'in-one' ...tho clipping bolts or pegs, (is that a peg in the horror-zon-tel ?), was not the usual practice for HB ... --------------------------------
HEX 2-Apr-2005 2:37:10 PM	------------------------------------- '...The husband-and-wife team of Dean Potter and Steph Davis climbed several peaks in Patagonia, including a one-day ascent of the mighty Torre Egger, and Potter made the first BASE jump in the range. Potter had hoped to jump from the summit of Cerro Torre earlier but could not find the right combination of conditions...' ........................... Topic Date User Interviews With Climbers Friday, 2 July 2004, HEX : >; And while your at it , Phil , can you ask Rick or Rob , if it's true that the ' first >ascent ' of El Mocho ( bizarre-looking mountain at the base of Cerro Torre), >(Bridwell&Squeak,circa ' 78) , simply involved leaving rock-boot-prints, in the snow ,at >the base of the summit-snow-dome---the route of ascent involved magnificent Gr20 >cracks to the top of the East pillar--but PAs/EBs might have attracted frost-bite by >going to the virgin summit---they are credited with the !st ascent of the mountain... .......................... '...Still keen to try BASE jumping in Patagonia, Potter climbed El Mocho’s East Pillar with Davis via the Bridwell-Staszewski Route and jumped off, reaching the glacier in one minute and leaving his wife to rappel alone...' Base-jumping Cerro Torre ?? --- that would be more rad than the one in the Karakorum, the gets aired on tv every now&then ... '...leaving his wife to rappel alone...' Waddamissogginistrsole !!! ;-) --------------------------------

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