General Climbing Discussion

Author	Havachatwithhexy...
HEX 17-Mar-2005 2:18:12 PM	----------------------------- glacier-rat 17/03/2005 >this was posted on Ukclimbing.com >As one anonymous Everest summiteer answered when asked what was the hardest part of >climbing the mountain: "Pissing through six inches of clothes with a three inch penis." LOL !!! > C'mon Damo --- you're nearly up here with Hexy !!!
HEX 17-Mar-2005 2:26:05 PM	----------------------- nmonteith 17/03/2005 >Does anyone know what aid system New Zealand uses? Centre-link @ Bondi ? ... ----------------------
Romfrantic 17-Mar-2005 2:49:01 PM	On 17/03/2005 HEX wrote: >----------------------- >nmonteith >17/03/2005 >>Does anyone know what aid system New Zealand uses? > >Centre-link @ Bondi ? ... > >---------------------- LOL.
HEX 17-Mar-2005 3:23:17 PM	---------------------- '...Basically there are three ratings: No Big Deal (NBD), Not Too Bad (NTB), Pretty Damn Hard (PDH). There's a modifier- Real Heads Up (RHU) for bad falls. Of course Jim Beyer would add- YFYDFS- you fall you die for sure. -- Eric Coomer (quoting Bridwell)...' ---------------------
LittleMac 17-Mar-2005 3:25:12 PM	On 17/03/2005 HEX wrote: >---------------------- >'...Basically there are three ratings: No Big Deal (NBD), Not Too Bad >(NTB), Pretty Damn Hard (PDH). There's a modifier- Real Heads Up (RHU) >for bad falls. Of course Jim Beyer would add- YFYDFS- you fall you die >for sure. >-- Eric Coomer (quoting Bridwell)...' >--------------------- I like it, I like it a lot, pretty much covers everything doesn't it. Do you think we can adopt it as our new aid system we can call it the R system - as in Reality system.
IdratherbeclimbingM9 17-Mar-2005 3:27:27 PM	I think the Strassman (Climbing Big Walls) book goes on to say CRS ... so much for a Casual Rating System (ie it seemed to die a natural death by not being adopted), after it was trialled but given up on, because others did not know (definitively) what was meant by the terms. ----------------------------------------------------- "Cardigan" (sic, he he!) has had his day! ... besides, did not know he was into aid; ... thought he was a free guru
HEX 17-Mar-2005 3:42:26 PM	TMSIDIIDT The M system is defiantly in itz death throes ... -------------------------------- http://www.bigwalls.net/climb/Ratings.html -------------------------------- Keeping the M system is about as appropriate as chopping all the bolted-climbs at Frog Buttress ... "...or we can all sit around and wait for cardigans to come back into fashion..." (Paul Hogan )
LittleMac 17-Mar-2005 3:50:33 PM	I think what the above post meant to say was, The M system has had it's day and whilst it aint over till the fat lady sings, she's warming up her vocal cords in the corner as we speak.
HEX 17-Mar-2005 3:50:34 PM	Go an' ask Stropp:P
HEX 17-Mar-2005 4:01:56 PM	Munwell said : >" Kair ?? "
IdratherbeclimbingM9 17-Mar-2005 4:14:38 PM	Interesting point you make Ed Frilly. Pass the plonk old chap while I type up a reposte for Hex ... so I can swig on some fresh air, ... being a deaf fish in sea! On 17/03/2005 HEX wrote: >------------------- >On 15/03/2005 HEX wrote: >>...especially when ya consider that >>the yanky 'A' system is quite often sub-divided by adding a + , to give >>ya ~8 anyway ... M8 said even earlier; USA Australian A0 = M1 A1 = M1 A2 = M2 A2+ = M3 A3 = M4 A3+ = M5 A4 = M6 A4+ = M7 A5 = M8 Thanks & good of you to notice and highlight this Hex. -------------------------- >bogged in something........" AFTOTD (a flaming turd on the doorstep?) zedHevyD --------------------------- A6= THEORETICAL (hence not included) A7 = multiday expedition / and-or high altitude walls?? ... whatever ! See Defender of the Faith thread... ---------------------------------- Whats your point Damos? (I don't think anyone is dropping off to sleep here??)!
PN 17-Mar-2005 4:27:01 PM	Damos was heard on the summit later that day: "Don't worry M8, Hexy* has made a career of taking credit for other people's clever ideas. He's taking his time making it to the summit, looks like he might have become bogged in something........" --------------------------------------------------------------------------- M8 = genius Hexy = ? The original point stands better ;) Now, I'd better whip up a story to save from becoming (more) irrelevant Someone should go and wake up the hex (the gimp) --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Little Mac is an offspring of the Tastybig variety? Brothers?
HEX 17-Mar-2005 4:38:08 PM	-------------------------------- A5--->M8--->Mr Carmeelian ... >Hey cobbers. >Read 'Party of One' by Greg Child (Its his treatise on Jim Beyers exploits), before you >close your minds as to where the A system 'finishes'. Jim Beyer ain't as cool as he usta be, now that the new generation have wised-up to the fact that Jimbo , on many occasions , chipped the placements for his sky-hooks ... Neva mind the grading-system --- itz aid-climbing that needs to be thoughtfully/thougholy questioned ... why do people still try to convince themselves that civil-engineering is ' rock-climbing ' --- murdering the impossible, by 'climbing ' a series of drilled-holes, on A3 Sport Climb for example is plain expletive-self-deleted ...Malcolm's Shifting Sands(in contrast) is almost OK , even if the bolts used to protect this free-climb DO trash a ' futuristic sweep of granite ' ... and Greg Childs decision to drill his way up the blankish, 100ft summit ' sharks-fin' in the Baltoro , because he was worried that his expedition would be labelled a ' failure ' unless the very top crystals of granite/snow were sat upon ... " Whatzthat?? --- coming luv !!! --- just gotta finish posting something to Chockstone ..." ---------------------------
IdratherbeclimbingM9 17-Mar-2005 5:04:41 PM	>itz aid-climbing that needs to be thoughtfully/thougholy questioned Probably. Its a strange game (any form of climbing) indeed! I don't claim Jim Beyer is cool, and it doesn't surprise me that he chipped holds. I have also heard that free climbers scoop handholds in the sandy desert towers simply by scrabbling at the rock looking for them! I do claim that JB did sufficient hard top-end aid climbs that he got a handle on differentiating between top-end aid grades, ... and consequently saw fit to extend the closed A5 system. >murdering the impossible (aka a Messner quote)/ drilled holes ... Even Aid-Guru Royal Robbins conceded Warren Hardings route was worthwhile after he chopped the initial bolts. He then went on to climb it and wear the flack resulting from the change of heart. ... Now that took guts, as I reckon the flack section was way cruxier than the A5 (highest standard of the day?) climbing. Sport climbers murder the rock with every new route put up (ie bolts), & many repeat the experience ~>so lichen never grows; ... by comparison A3 sportclimb (notice I called it M5 in the title?), had lichen growing over some of the enhanced holes, a spider in one ... (~>habitat?). Not many repeat it and unless you knew where to look most would not find it. I enjoy the fact that you give cause to reflect on these things though H-T. Keep the thought provocation happening! ------------------------------------------ BTW (from home page) >Welcome to our newest member LittleMac from Victoria, Australia who joined us today. This has got to be some sort of record? LittleMac joins and has 20+ posts in one day! Lookout Simey your (winning till date, though Dinkum was close), tally for vociferousness is in jeopardy due to being surpassed!! ----------------------------------------------- >Keep the thought provocation happening! There IS a difference between that & poop-stirring H-T !! wotcha brewin indacauldren? said hexmeister lookin ovayashoulder. --------------------- >nuffsed Sums it up nicely!
HEX 17-Mar-2005 7:19:58 PM	>I can't tell you the difference between Gd 24 and 25... nuffsed... ----------------------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------------------------------------------ richie cunningplan 17/03/2005 >alright guys... >as mediator of this conversation, i must inform you that no system has been agreed >upon. Aid climbing will therefore cease to exist from this moment onwards. All >entriers, hooks and copperheads can be left at the chalet upon leaving the park. Im >affraid you will have to hand over that chisel and hammer too M8iswhereitsat !! ... Snigger!!! --------------------------------- http://www.bigwalls.net/climb/Ratings.html Itza totally comprehendable/comprehensive/commendable system...chuck in A5- & A5+ , to please the quadratic pedantic analycysts,and to cover the ' canoe-ing extremes ' within A5, and kentzyauncle ! Therez nothing ' theoretical ' about A6 --- these routes do exist ... >I see no reason to roll over and play dead for Uncle Sam... Said Simon munchin' on his Maccaz... ---------------------------------- Home-made Leeper Cam Hooks ? Friday, 11 April 2003, M8iswhereitsat : >I have made and tested various size cam hooks (for aid climbing thin cracks) from >various bits of scrap steel, including lawn mower blades... Said M8 while gleefully swinging around on his Hills Hoist, with vegemite smeared all over his big fat gob !!! ---------------------------------- Richard : >Climbers seem very hung up on history... Nothing wrong with that A ... I mean eh !!! ---------------------------------
HEX 17-Mar-2005 9:39:53 PM	--------------------------------- M8 & Onsight 17/03/2005 >Are you talking about the Tote? Why is climbing banned there?? >>That's right M8, the Tote is now closed. >>They found a rare and endangered type of rock spider there... I thought Michael Jackson was busy in court:P ------------------------------------
HEX 17-Mar-2005 10:00:19 PM	On 17/03/2005 Damos wrote: >M8 = genius >Hexy = ? >The original point stands better ;) >Now, I'd better whip up a story to save from becoming (more) irrelevant >Someone should go and wake up the hex (the gimp) I preffered the morphing accuracy of your other one : M8=genius Hexy=? M8=ge.. Hexy=? M8=.. Hexy=.. M8=?[politically-correctly-self-moderated-modified to : the genie (in Damos) rz ?] ...is that OK Simeymod'? dalai 25/03/2004 >I think Hex-troll has a new competitor for the Troll of the year award!! Damietta 25/03/2004 >Hey f--- you buddy what's your problem Whatza matta you ? HEY !!! You gotta no respect ! Whatta ya think ya do ?? Why you getta so mad ?? You just like to naaaaaag !!! Cos Hexy is da ACE !! now get offa my case !!! Luv HEX & Joe the'solo accordian' dude ... ------------------------------------------
HEX 17-Mar-2005 10:52:20 PM	On 15/03/2005 gfdonc wrote: >On a sobering note... Oh dear ... http://www.pbase.com/phil_box/bens_climbing_accident
LittleMac 17-Mar-2005 11:36:37 PM	On 17/03/2005 M8iswhereitsat wrote: >------------------------------------------ >BTW (from home page) >>Welcome to our newest member LittleMac from Victoria, Australia who joined >us today. >This has got to be some sort of record? >LittleMac joins and has 20+ posts in one day! > >Lookout Simey your (winning till date, though Dinkum was close), tally >for vociferousness is in jeopardy due to being surpassed!! >----------------------------------------------- What can I say M8 you're well thought out and insightful debate inspired me. I try my best. Cheers all
LittleMac 17-Mar-2005 11:44:18 PM	On 17/03/2005 Damos wrote: >Little Mac is an offspring of the Tastybig variety? Brothers? Unfortunately not, I am nowhere near as tasty or as big. I am simply another climber who happens to be of the far less tasty LittleMac variety. Cheers All

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