General Climbing Discussion

Author	Havachatwithhexy...
HEX 11-Mar-2005 7:55:07 PM	Bourge with-out his eye-patch on ... http://www.climbing.apollo.lv/images/wiskas/Gollum.jpg
Hatman 11-Mar-2005 8:07:05 PM	On 11/03/2005 HEX wrote: >>Mike: if you need help i'm quite willing - just PM me. I am an IT professional >in real life ;) We forum posters have real lives? What....? I better go find mine. Its stuck somewhere between my woodie and laptop!
Onsight 11-Mar-2005 10:25:05 PM	On 10/03/2005 Edward Frillypants wrote: >Onsight >Your contention that significant ascents are often misreported. >As a matter of interest, got any examples? Eddy, I’d have thought there’s no need to say more. Or are you just after goss? Can you please explain your point in posting my comments re the Tote? I assume there was one? On 10/03/2005 Edward Frillypants wrote: >> Like I’ve said, it the ascent is obviously a great achievement. >Big of you to say so. Um…Perhaps you missed my point? There’s a big difference between an actual achievement and the reporting of it, and I believe I’ve pointed out some quite significant ways this was actually “under” reported as well. Anyway, in addition to all that, I also wanted to make some broader points about journalism/the media/the internet. I find that all quite interesting but we never really got into that discussion (ie. if someone casually posts a ‘report’ of something then it gets – perhaps unwittingly – turned in a “news” item, which then might end up in print without any fact checking, then what are the implications of all that?). I was also trying to make a comment about climbing terminology because I’ve noticed several times now that when someone starts up a thread seeking clarification re the exact meaning of terminology they seem to get shouted down with “who cares” type comments. Perhaps it’s easy to be flippant about such things until you have to report stuff to the public? (I’m not saying you were flippant, it’s a comment in general). Anyway, thanks, sincerely, for your report. On second thoughts, on balance, it was helpful, and I made a mistake lumping it in that that other report which had so clearly missed the important points whilst exaggerating others. So my apologies for any offence caused. Cheers bro. ---------------------------------------- ....meanwhile at Rock HQ it’s… “Stop the press!!!”
HEX 12-Mar-2005 12:12:05 AM	BUMP... Topic Date User re: snow flurries in argus Tuesday, 4 January 2005 ,nmonteith : >It seems like Chris Baxter himself has waded into the controversy [editorial in >latest Rock mag]... it is just another un-researched load of drivel in my opinion. >He adds nothing new and just recycles the statements from the original >anonymous source. It is hardly excellent journalism. He fails to refer to any points >I made in my detailed letter in reply to 'JT'...
IdratherbeclimbingM9 12-Mar-2005 10:01:04 AM	Onsight said; >I’ve noticed several times now that when someone starts up a thread seeking clarification re the exact meaning of terminology they seem to get shouted down with “who cares” type comments. Since I am never likely to free anything of that grade I can relate to the 'who cares' point of view. I understand the point you are making though, but I suspect that most climbers are 'easy-going' in that they regard these achievements as awsome by any means, and not all of them are concerned with the nuances. It probably matters most to those who count numbers and aspire to similar or better standard. It amazes me that for the length of history the climbing culture has in guidebooks etc, that we still argue the toss on such things as pinkpoints (and such) as evidenced by debates on any climbing forum you care to point a forky stick at ('cos there are so many of them; debates that is) ... Given that for me anything over Gd 22/3 is blerrie hard and I can't tell you the difference between Gd 24 and 25 'who cares' is valid. This does not stop me acknowledging the (awsome) achievement/s and giving credit where its due though, ... ~> so I don't think we shout the debate down. Let the debate continue!
HEX 14-Mar-2005 2:04:23 PM	--------------------------------------- BAz piccy of Hexmiester & Roland ... ---------------------------------------
oweng 14-Mar-2005 2:34:43 PM	Did Rolands c--ky have a habit of pulling his protection out whilst he was climbing? I seem to recall reading / hearing something along that line.... Sure it would be great if he was seconding the route, but if you were leading, you would be well served to train the buggers to put gear in I recon.
IdratherbeclimbingM9 14-Mar-2005 3:31:59 PM	Excellent archival photo H-T. Its been years since I have seen this one but I do remember it. Did it come out in more than one published location as I think I saw it in a book rather than a magazine (club or otherwise)? I seem to recall that its location was at Buffalo, is this correct? Any further details of the climb available (name, grade etc)? Any further details available for the pic [date, photographer (BA?) etc] Magic moment indeed. c--ky: "Wotcha doin mate?" Roland: "Ya sposed to be keepin lookout, not interfering!"
BA 15-Mar-2005 12:53:47 PM	The photo came out of the famous (infamous?) Classic Climbs of Australia by Joe Friend. The photo was taken when Roland was trying to free Monarch, which he eventually did, before Henry Barber visited Buffalo. One of the 'last great problems' done by an Australian climber before Henry had a chance to snaffle it. The photo was probably taken about '74 or '75. When Roland was doing the FA of Bermuda Triangle at Araps ("thousands will perish" was the quote that accompanied the original write up), the Hexmeister unclipped one of the pieces of gear as Roland was passing the small roof on the climb. I think that Hexie (the c--katoo that is) did something similar several times to Roland. He also had a Corella and a Galah, and between the three of them there wasn't much plastic left in Roland's car, it was all nibbled away. They also had a liking for the metal/plastic bits on the end of shoe laces, even if your foot was still in the shoe!
HEX 15-Mar-2005 1:11:11 PM	A totally sexcellent contribution, BA !!! --- thanx for synthesising this groovy byte of Havachatwithhexy:-) Luv HEX ... .............................. JCP tangent : >so many cool people from all over the world (good lookin too!) to hang out with and >climb with, except i woke up this morning and the keas had eaten a huge hole in my >tent- bastards! we all keep a pile of rocks next to our tent now...
IdratherbeclimbingM9 15-Mar-2005 2:03:52 PM	Thanks for the extra detail re Hexmeister/Roland pic BA.
HEX 15-Mar-2005 2:12:47 PM	------------------------------ On 8/01/2005 HEX wrote: > >" OOOOiiiiii !!!!! --- don't scoff all of it !! --- I'm gunna need most >of that to help me sleep at night, cos some of those bratz on Chockstone >keep questioning my authority --- that pesky fly is pushing his luck... >; and if that BLOODY HEX tells me to include, in the Autumn edition of >Rock : the passing of Rick White ; the outcome of the great-frog-de-bolting-debate >(Shit ! --- Hexys influence is spreading around the country faster than >bleedin' cane-toads !!) ; and Lee Cosey's magnificent send of OzyDirect... >I'll...I'll ! ...I swear I'll !! ... AAAARRRGGGHHH !!! " .............................. EDITORIAL Vale Rick White ROCKFALL Letters to the Editor ROCK NEWS Including the first *continuous* free ascent of Ozymandias Direct, round-ups of Victorian and Tasmanian summer action and eye-witness reports of the tsunami hitting Thailand’s Ton Sai NEW CLIMBS In Kaputar, the Blue Mountains and the Grampians ROCK DIARY What's on, and when THE SHARP END Mike Law on old age and climbing... ................................. hehehe ! ... -------------------------- Lord Gumtree - Newsflash climbingjac 22/03/2004 >Afternoon, all. >I'd like to report that last week, Steve Monks freed the last of the remaining aid pitches >on "Lord Gumtree" at Mt Buffalo. He has now officially proven it is possible to get from the >ground to the summit of that thing - without using aid. >For those of you not familiar with the route, it's a stupidly hard multipitch... at Mt Buffalo. >Land of the hard routes. Steve has been toiling away with freeing the various pitches... >spanning a 5 year era! He is now most pleased that he never has to the bottom of the gorge >(where it starts) again!! >Well done Steve! >Jacqui JCP 22/03/2004 >bloody nice work Steve- i salute you >is there a FFA planned for the future, or is that up to someone else? nmonteith 22/03/2004 >I think that IS the FFA. Might have to wait for the first *continuous* free ascent though... Onsight Frillypantz will be there to keep us accurately informed:P --------------------------
HEX 15-Mar-2005 2:42:11 PM	----------------------------- Copperhead Road (A4+) repeated nmonteith 17/12/2003 >Gareth Llewellin (QLD) and Shaggy (USA) repeated Malcolm Matheson's testpiece aid >route, Copperhead Road (A4) on Mt Buffalo's North Wall last week. The crux pitch is >50m+ of very dicy hook and bad copperhead (mashie) placements with only a few bits >of good gear along the way. Gareth described being six sky hooks out from a string of >mashies and having to trust very small and insecure mashies in an overhang to >continue. This is a very bold ascent with possible 30m+ fall potenital most of the way >up the climb. The route is considered one of the hardest and most dangeorus in the >country... There is also a route, reported as grade M9 , by Rick I think , lurking somewhere in QLD... -----------------------------
nmonteith 15-Mar-2005 2:48:05 PM	Rick's route was on Mt Maroon - i remember hearing that it had been free climbed at grade 26 - possibly by Hoskins?
gfdonc 15-Mar-2005 4:26:20 PM	On a sobering note (always a good think for Hexies corner) I was saddened to hear on the weekend that Chris Baxter is not well, he is beginning his second course of chemo this week after recovering from weight loss and a bout of pneumonia brought on by the first round of chemo. I hope all Chockstoners will join me in wishing him a speedy recovery. - Steve
IdratherbeclimbingM9 15-Mar-2005 4:38:28 PM	Yeah, I'll second that. If anyone is visiting him please wish him a speedy recovery. Thanks for letting us know gfdonc.
PN 15-Mar-2005 5:00:15 PM	There have been a few comments about this. Of course Hexolottle has gone and put his big, fat, hairy hoof in it again, like he was trying to stamp out a flaming turd on the doorstep. Chris is a legend, best wishes to him and his family Hexshee, git back in ya kennel, gon, git back, giddouttathere, git back, gon, dony'allcomebackere y'hear, sidownanshaddap pup!
HEX 15-Mar-2005 5:51:48 PM	---------------------------------- >THE SHARP END >Mike Law on old age and climbing... Miklz been vwery qwiet lately, not many posts coming from his office ... hopefully he hasn't died, fallen-in & been swept, down and around his-cyber-S-bend ... ........................................... Anyone got any (good) news on Bryden Allen's recovery ? ... ---------------------------------
HEX 15-Mar-2005 6:42:31 PM	-------------------------------- manacubus 15/03/2005 >Definitely ditch the M grade. A grade all the way. I certainly don't prescribe to the M >system in my guidebooks (Glasshouse Mountains Guide, for example). Let's see if we >can pull our collective arses out of the dark ages... I dunno, CubeArse ... the aus' free system has ~35 numbers to choose from, an' no-onez sayin' that,thatz too many ... still enuf ' room' between them to distinguish&differentiate the grades, eh ... same with the M(Mechanical) grades ... ~8 is a good amount to d&d , especially when ya consider that the yanky 'A' system is quite often sub-divided by adding a + , to give ya ~8 anyway ... ----------------------------
manacubus 15-Mar-2005 6:47:56 PM	Why bother? Why not just get with the program?

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