General Climbing Discussion

Author	Havachatwithhexy...
HEX 9-Mar-2005 1:49:46 PM	STREWTH !!! --- 28 seconds later ??? ------------------------------------------------ ------------------------------------------------ Not really sure wot you guys are sayin' --- I musta momentarily picked-up the Aid climbers virus when josh was giving me that ' dancin in me etts ' massage ... Clearly --- Hex tries to filter the mud out of that Wimmera-mind-water --- Australian climbing is experiencing profound change & evolution --- not so much on the cliffs, ala the Carrigan years, but in terms of the transmission and expression and recording of the ' sub ' culture ...Hexy has alluded before : ...................................... Topic Date User Ashes to ashes , funk to funky... Thursday, 8 July 2004 At 7:06:36 PM HEX ... we know y'all just '... web-site junkies , scawling on cyber-space...', etc,etc,etc Well, b***** me !!! --- how things are evolving ! ; from camp-fire to computer , Baxter makes it all ,oh-so-clear ! So '... pull the curtains, dim the lights, take hold of your mouse , and step into the shady world of cyber-rock...' (Tempest 1998 ) So where to from here ? ... 1) Camp-fire convos are still as fun and existentially stimulating , as they ever were , no doubt ,even in the cave-(wo)man days... 2) Baxter's ' yeah-what-ever-we-can-handle-it-all ' refreshing editorial, suggests that the book technology is still one of the most enduring we have , now and into the future---support Rock everyone : it DOES ,generally, improve with each issue. 3) Cyber-rock ? --- ' The Hex ' can envisage ,a not too far off time , when there will be an inter-active climbing function on Chockstone , allowing for people to meet, climb/belay with each other, with-out actually etc,etc,etc Obviously, cyber-climbing / chatting is here to stay---is that a good thing ? If the likes of Chockstone , Qurank , RC , etc,etc,etc can provide reflections of / alternatives to / competition with / even inspiration for , the general climbing-culture , then that has to , surely , be a good thing... Chockstone, Rock mag , Arapiles camp-fires--- defiantly room for them all ! ( to blend )... Luv, HEX ...................................... ' ... experienced/knowledgeable climbers [CAN ] report things accurately...' --- if they can be bothered ... sometimes the ' signal to noise ratio ' DOES get a tad intense , but itz good that there seems to be an increasing-number of contributer/lurkers who are probably both baffled by the bollocks but at the same time intreegd by this neo-cyber-camp-fire-scene ... DaveJ,simey,KevinL,cshep...,Mikl's gone quiet...,vince... --- Hexy dinks that the ' normalisation ' of e-communication will leed to more diversity of contributers, greater accuracy of journo-reporting ( since those-in-the-know can correct, modify, elaborate on the 'facts' QUICKLY, rather than ' everyone ' berrating/ getting frustrated by etc,etc,etc ... To the likes of Onsight, BA , Neilo , Philby & many others --- I hope youz continue to cut-thru the cyber-static and ... BUMP************************************************** **************************************************************************************** **************************************************************************************** ****************************************************************************************
HEX 9-Mar-2005 2:46:41 PM	************************************************************************************** ************************************************************************************** ***************************************************************BUMP Magine if the internet had been around in 1965 !!! --- da moderators woodabeen flat-out keeping-up with this lot , especially Bob " Yeeaaarrrrhhhh --- and why don't you just shut ya f#ckin' p#ss fl#ps !!! " Bull ...
Bourge 9-Mar-2005 2:51:49 PM	Psst, Hexy you overweight turdface, have a squizz at your PMs, there's a serious message for ya Bourgey
HEX 9-Mar-2005 2:53:22 PM	Bourge ------------------------------------------------------------------------------YOUR FIRED !!!
Bourge 9-Mar-2005 2:55:11 PM	Aaaaargh!
HEX 9-Mar-2005 3:10:20 PM	--------------------------------------------------------------------------------- --------------------------------------------------------------------------------- BAD DAMEY BUFFER ZONE ... ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------- ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------
HEX 9-Mar-2005 3:26:28 PM	---------------------------------------------------- Author whats the weather like? vince 8/03/2005 12:05:41 PM climbing been good? Syd Huxley 8/03/2005 12:11:00 PM is that vince day from SA? or the rock god from tassie? if its the one from tassie, you stole my draws of the low down at arapiles.i saw you doing oit from the top of the pharoes you fu#king bastard.when i see you next im going to ask for them back and if you dont i'll wrap a f---ing lead pipe around your head. vince 8/03/2005 12:15:09 PM i thought they were my mate robos!!! sorry i'll express post them back to u as soon as possible u whining bitch!! am im from qld u senile old turd!! ive seen the goat cave where u live!! expect a visit from macca!! Hello Vinny ... " Awwww f ' f#cks sake !!! --- not now Hexy --- I'm con-zen-tratin' !!! " .............................. Topic Date User THE AUSTRALIAN RE, RETRO-BOLTING OPEN FORUM Friday, 13 February 2004, Onsight >PS. Hex, who are ' The Ho' & VD? Go on, give us a clue... BuggeredifIknow?? --- will the real vince please ... !!! ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------- ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------- BAD DAMEY BUFFER ZONE ... ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------- ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bourge 9-Mar-2005 3:33:23 PM	It not Damey, it's Bourge, differemt people. stop calling me that
HEX 9-Mar-2005 3:49:39 PM	BoaredOfTheRings 13/10/2004 >The walls yawn with anticipation ...
HEX 9-Mar-2005 4:03:16 PM	----------------------------- Onsight --- when ya get a chance canya please fine-tune the ' facts ' : 1) Did Lee really do the first ' continuous ' ascent by yo-yo-ing the 2nd pitch ... 2) Re : Deep Play : can you confirm that Steve actually did something more significant by unwittingly? freeing the Galagos Route , pitch 1 ... Full of antisssssssssssssssssssssipation ... Luv HEX ----------------------------------
Onsight 9-Mar-2005 4:05:21 PM	On 9/03/2005 HEX wrote: >>PS. Hex, who are ' The Ho' & VD? Go on, give us a clue... cheers for taking the time to dig that up Hex but I figured it like over a year ago... you're becoming quite the Artist w Photoshop there Hex... mind if I call on your services if I ever need some "work" done?
HEX 9-Mar-2005 4:12:25 PM	hehehe ! ;-) Now what about Lee & Steve ...
HEX 9-Mar-2005 4:19:12 PM	While we're waiting for Simey#1,hopefully Neil---talking of ' a-year-ago '---can get back to us all on this one : Topic Date User THE AUSTRALIAN RE, RETRO-BOLTING OPEN FORUM Wednesday, 24 March 2004 nmonteith >Well - my memory is very vauge - but when i aided Gilgamesh back in 1998 i passed >by what appeared to be a perfect horizontal chipped slot - very similar to the >classic 'slots' that used to be all over Centinial Glen several years back. It was not a >pin scar but a whoel new hold on the lip. At the time i was 100% certain is was a >chipped slot - but it was so many years ago maybe i was mistaken.... i might have a >good look this weekend since i will be out on Taipan this Saturday.
Phil Box 9-Mar-2005 4:30:35 PM	Hex, is that The Lords Prayer at Frog Buttress.
HEX 9-Mar-2005 4:33:37 PM	yep ------------------------- Jono: >Some delicate moves were required to negotiate the rock wall that was only made >possible by a slither of ice. With my crampons scraping at the rock and my tools in >ice that threatened to peel off I could feel my focus turning to fear but I managed to keep it together. I set up a good rock anchor and signalled to Neil on the 2-way. We >continued simul climbing... -------------------------------
HEX 9-Mar-2005 6:39:28 PM	WM --- while Lee's ascent is very good for an Australian within Australia,:D, by contempary world-class-standards itz ... I was thinking more in terms of the sort of ascents attempted&achieved by Jap-dude, Yuyi Hirayama : '...Barely missing on his third attempt to onsight an El Cap route, Yuji Hirayama managed a two-fall free ascent of El Niño (30 pitches, 5.13c) on the right side of El Capitan. Over four days of climbing, Hirayama onsighted five 5.13 pitches and numerous 5.11 and 5.12 pitches. He freed the first five pitches in two days, took a rest with his family in the Valley on Day 3, and then jugged to the start of the sixth pitch and continued to the top over two more days of climbing. Earlier this autumn, Hirayama attempted to onsight the Huber brothers’ 41-pitch 5.13 Golden Gate, on the left side of El Cap. He took only three falls on that attempt. As a warmup for this campaign in the Valley, he onsighted Uncertainty Principle (5.13a, 13 pitches) and Psychedelic Wall (5.12c, 11 pitches) on Sentinel Rock. Last year, *Hirayama free-climbed the Salathe Wall in 13 hours with no falls; he previously had attempted to onsight the climb, but fell several times*...' I sincerely hope that Lee can sort-out the redpoint/free-climb/# of falls thingymajig, by returning to Ozy and climbing it trully ' continuously ' ,in a day, leading all pitches , with-out weighing-the-pro , bottom to top , smoothly and efficiently ... Until that happens , I think many of Henry Barber's ascents in Australia are much more impressive ... -----------------------------------
Onsight 9-Mar-2005 7:13:49 PM	On 9/03/2005 HEX wrote: >1) Did Lee really do the first ' continuous ' ascent by yo-yo-ing the >2nd pitch ... Well Hex, as far as Lee’s excellent ascent is concerned… firstly I’m not really sure where you got the yo-yoing bit from? Perhaps you’ve inferred it from Eddy’s report: >Lee took a fall on the 2nd (29 corner) pitch, returned to the bottom of the pitch, had a >short rest and then sent it clean.” I think this just shows how we need to know the facts before we can really comment on them and the bits that come down to interpretation. However I can say this, I read (surely everyone should read) “sent it clean” these days as meaning a redpoint ascent - or at very least a “pinkpoint” ascent (personally I think the term “pinkpoint” is somewhat redundant but it does describe some styles of ascent reasonably well, such as it would in this case). Furthermore, I have spoken to Lee about his ascent and am pretty sure he did pull his ropes B4 the next shot. But frankly, I didn’t take a lot of notice of the exact details of what he said that he did on that pitch – simply because I am entirely confident that Lee understands a thing or two about free climbing ethics – and when he says he did it ‘free’ then it seems pretty obvious that’s what he did (ie, he would have pulled his rope and pink-pointed it at least). On 9/03/2005 WM wrote: >When first reading this I assumed Lee had pulled his ropes after lowering >off - but there's a suggestion Lee yo-yoed it in the 'other' thread. EFP >can you clarify? >Either way, it was a 'continuous' ascent Hex! These days it wouldn't even be considered 'free' if he had yo-yoed it (and so Will it can't really be either way - at least not as far as 'continuous free' ascent is concerned). In summary Hex – it was a ‘continuous free’ ascent, and that was the style that was always going to be the next big step up in style. There’s still room for improvement, such as proper ground up or onsight even, but this was the biggy. >2) Re : Deep Play : can you confirm that Steve actually did something >more significant by unwittingly? freeing the Galagos Route , pitch 1 ... More significant than what? Ozy? Um, don’t think so (and hence why the Pou’s copped comments about selecting the Tote as their objective). However I do think Steve (and Enga’s) Deep Play variant is significant in it’s own right AND because it’s nice little pre-cee-dent for retroing worthless aid routes for turning them into fantastic free routes… >Full of antisssssssssssssssssssssipation ... Hope ya didn’t pissssinyarpants in the meantime!
HEX 9-Mar-2005 7:51:01 PM	>I’d say it appears that nobody much seems to care but just so long as everyone’s >aware that the level of journalism in Oz climbing is generally rubbish... >But frankly, I didn’t take a lot of notice of the exact details of what he said... While I recover from my nappy-rash, canya e?-talk to Lee and get the juice so we can practice our neo-cyber-preach ... Luv HEX
HEX 9-Mar-2005 8:36:57 PM	>You have GOT to be kidding. By that twisted reasoning does Lynn Hill's 2 falls off >pitch 29 before getting it 3rd shot make her one day continuous ascent of the Nose >null and void?!? And less impressive than Henry Barber's Oz ascents? Does she have >to go back and do it without "(insert random Hex ramblings)" for the achievement to >get any respect? >Meanwhile you give respecK to Hirayama's NON-continuous "take a rest day with the >family then jug back past the hard bit" ascent. >Pretty girly troll that one Hex - I'll have to call you Princess Fiona from now on. hehehe !! --- Arnie's ' Girly-man ' culture is spreading nicely ! The Jap-dudes key ascent is indicated with * --- he returned to the route to ensure a true continuous ascent . No cred for the ' jug back ' ascent --- he knows the deal & will probably return to this route also ... Lynn's ascent is IMPRESSIVE but itz not CONTINUOUS ... Lee retreats to belay ledge ; Jap jugs ; Lynn hopes no-one will notice amid all the razzamataz ...NOT continuous ascents...down-climbing from a hard-bit , resting and then successfully ascending the pitch would barely scrape in as continuous ascents, because significant back-towards-the-start-of-the-route movement had been made... Australian climbing still has a lot of catching-up to do... Luv Princhex Fiona...
James 9-Mar-2005 8:57:51 PM	hex is going to show us all the proper way to do it in his imminent free, continuous, no-look-down, *thinking-high-thoughts*, bollocks-free ascents of the Nose, El Salathe, El Nino, Ozymandias, & Lord Gumtree. If he's worth the silicon-circuit-board s*#*#, then he'll do them all in a day. If hexie even so much as drops his hands below head height the '..neo-cyber reporters..' will be watching, taking notes, posting to the web real-time.... hex's well & truly stuck in the wimmera mud...

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