General Climbing Discussion

Author	Havachatwithhexy...
HEX 5-Mar-2005 1:40:34 PM	--------------------------- Topic Date User online now? , 5 March 2005,rhinckle >why just hexy? >have a chat with anyone. >with words >s/he can have the slow loading piccies >links to pics let one choose and speeds up the process of 'talking' >eg: >climbing knots >i'm gunna log off soon, anyone out there? Itz 1978 and Sid, Johnny & Steve Jones are sitting around in a yanky talk-back-radio-station , bantering&trolling with the punters ... one dork rings in and offers : " Hey c'mon !!! --- how about some equal time !!! --- Why are those guys allowed to call everyone f#ckheads but we're not allowed to call them f#ckheads??!! " Steve Jones : " Because youra f#ckhead, thats why ..." -----------------------
HEX 5-Mar-2005 2:57:20 PM	On 31/01/2005 JCP wrote: >hexy, id be honoured if you'd allow me to advertise my new residence in >your fine e-stablishment here >notquite finished...but its a start :P >www.joshcaple.com Look-out simeyonsight --- damouseismakingprogress ... http://www.climbing.com.au Rhinckle --- press the ' news ' tab ...
HEX 5-Mar-2005 6:17:25 PM	$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$ PURE GOLD http://www.johngill.net ..................... http://www.needlesports.com/nutsmuseum/nutsmuseum.htm $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$
HEX 5-Mar-2005 8:16:15 PM	------------------------- Eduardo Slabofvic 5/03/2005 >Dear Simey, >I am a sad and lonely old climber who hasn’t been laid since 28 was the highest grade. So >to make up for the emptiness in my life I’m going to go slam a few bolts in some poor >unsuspecting rock somewhere. Should I use glue ins or carrots (for old times sake)?... Simeyz a bit busy at the mo', Eddy --- prapz Hexy can give you some meaning-full insight into the hole/bolt ; female/male miserable-metaphor that once/now constitutes your ' life ' ... '...Relationships are way harder than climbing, when the going gets tough you can't just slam a bolt in her forehead and bail...' (fromsomeobscureyankywebsite) Luv HEX ... howaboutaglueincarrot ... --------------------------- Eduardo Slabofvic 5/03/2005 >Dear Simey, >I’m an anorexic stick insect sport climber with a spotty face and bad breath... Well, maybe if you didn't talk so much shit :P --------------------------
HEX 6-Mar-2005 3:38:36 PM	-------------------- Re : Roped-soloing : Phil Box Feb 2005 >Whatever you do don`t use a Shunt for this purpose. They fail at miserably low loads. They >can and do chop ropes. They can deform and spit the rope out the side... >If you look at a Shunt you will see that the device is capable of clamping all the way down >on to the body of the device, this is a recipe for the dreaded rope chop or other >mechanisms for mangling the body of the device such that the rope will pop out the side of >it. >Look at any rope grab device, there should be sufficient room for the sheath or mantle to >shred but the kern to stay somewhat intact. SAY WHAT??!! --- Russian-roolette & being left hanging from the tattered remnants of a kern is good advice ??!! --- reminds me of Squeak on the Totem Pole : The first 30 feet of the aid route was ' climbed ' by jumarring-up an old rope that had been left hanging from the sentry-box --- Rob ended-up jumarring about 45 feet cos the sheath had broken-away at the attachment-point and kept slipping-down-over the core --- most exciting jumarring-up the final core-only section ! ... Hexy has taken a few solo-roped falls , and self-arrested safely --- and solved the scenario you out-line --- by using a HAWSER-LAID, STATIC , caving rope ... Whoreza-laid ropes won't give you the bungy-jump landing of a DYNAMIC ( sheath&core ) rope, but they DO have enuf stretch to etc,etc,etc ... & best of all, there's no-way a Shunt will chop thru this type of rope ... & if ya think that ya falls might be so big that,that might happen, then ya might as well climb more safely ,with a lighter load, by leaving ya rope(s) at home ... I'm sure Tobin Sorinson would agree... ---------------------------
Phil Box 7-Mar-2005 11:11:01 AM	Nope, you misunderstand my point hex, tis better to shred a sheath than to chop the complete rope. The first option is a lifesaver, the second is certain death. Some of the rope grab type devices in the past definitely would chop a rope in a high shock load scenario. The thing to look for in any device is whether there is a gap between the cam and the body of the device. For instance check out the rescuescender and compare that to an early Gibbs ascender. Actually the early Gibbs ascender had a cast cam that would break and simply cut the rope from the sharp edge camming down on the rope.
gfdonc 7-Mar-2005 11:34:28 AM	On 6/03/2005 HEX wrote: >then ya might as well climb more safely ,with a lighter load, by leaving >ya rope(s) at home ... I'm sure Tobin Sorinson would agree... 'Twas my recollection that the ex Mr Sorenson came to his demise while roped soloing when the anchor pulled .. 'sthat correct? your point being? - Steve
HEX 7-Mar-2005 6:29:41 PM	Nope, you misunderstand my point Philby, tis better to land safe'n'sound on an undamaged rope than to shred a sheath ...thatz sheath as in ropes, simey ...
HEX 7-Mar-2005 6:59:22 PM	---------------------------- alrob 7/03/2005 >thats a flash pump my friend. thats how i try to warm up... i think it >basically is a >shock treatment for muscles and gets the initial mind blowing pump out of the way... Yep ! --- same applies when doing the wild-monkey-dance --- once ya get the first load out of the way, you can do ' it ' all night long :-))) ------------------------------
IdratherbeclimbingM9 7-Mar-2005 9:45:07 PM	re >>BTW, ... As an aid climber I like the subtle-silver-jug solution H-T said: >[cos apparently drilling a hole is not the same as a subtle-chipped-jug solution] (snip) Your not burning the meat on the barbie by stoking the fire here RU Hex? >youmakinsenseofallthis,simey?... LOL
simey 8-Mar-2005 12:25:02 AM	>>youmakinsenseofallthis,simey?... Don't worry Hexy and fan club, I'm making sense of it all, despite the fact that I have wade through all your esoteric waffle.
Phil Box 8-Mar-2005 9:04:19 AM	On 7/03/2005 HEX wrote: >Nope, you misunderstand my point Philby, tis better to land safe'n'sound >on an undamaged rope than to shred a sheath ...thatz sheath as in ropes, >simey ... Your point is conceded absolutely hex. Tis always better to never damage any rope you are working with.
HEX 8-Mar-2005 5:30:03 PM	" RRRRRRRRRRRRrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr !!!!! --- Cap'in Boxfish 'ere, me har-rrr-teez !!! ---RRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr !!!!!! " " Bin wonderin' lately what I can dice-up fa coral-trout bait...hmmmmm --- if I eva get me hunns on thut Hexy ...moohahahahahahaaaaaaaRRRRRRRRRrrrrrrrrrrr !!!!! "
Bourge 8-Mar-2005 5:46:03 PM	------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Cross thread raid: INsert Bourge here Philby, better get back to shoremate those clouds look a bit menacing and abit cyclone-like Cap'n Bourge, Aaaar -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- See you tomorrow night Hexy!
Phil Box 8-Mar-2005 6:03:08 PM	Arrrrghhhh, me hearties, me scurvy tub is takin a wee bit of water arrrghhh. I reckon I should make me way into the eye of the cyclone, it`s calmer in there. Didja here about the canoeist who was paddling around in the ocean north of New Guinea and he was picked up in a waterspout and he eventually was deposited back on dry land somewhere in the mountains of New Guinea, true story or so I am lead to believe. Trouble is I am easily lead.
IdratherbeclimbingM9 8-Mar-2005 6:58:35 PM	H-T said >The neo-challenge these-days is to be able to dream-up the ideal climbing-trip & then execute it as smoothly as it is experienced when it drifts sexily around the mind while still in suburia ... the post-modern world is choked with political-correctness and presentz daily ' challenges' at every moment ... more than enough challenges to satisfy those who just want to pour-down the perfect milk-shake&savour the perfect Horsham-Oven-Door danish-pastry of-a-climb... There are no challenges these hazy-daze! ... due to political correctness!! >& we won't mention the microcosm-destruction-inside-of-cracks that your pitoneering causes ... Mention it as much as you like, -> Todays aid climbs are the grade 38+'s of tomorrow.
HEX 8-Mar-2005 7:19:38 PM	Dribble,dribble,dribble,drone,drone,drone,belly-ache,belly-ache,belly-ache ... >my mind is too analytical, so my creative talents aren't flash enough... Aid climber : Aquired Intelligence Deaf-fish-in-sea ...
HEX 8-Mar-2005 8:35:13 PM	-------------------------------- Phil Box 8/03/2005 >Didja here about the canoeist who was paddling around in the ocean north of New >Guinea and he was picked up in a waterspout and he eventually was deposited back >on dry land ... ................................... Tuesday, 4 March 2003, ABC(QLD) '...We've all heard the saying "raining cats and dogs" and it's a term that's been bandied around the Mackay region during the monsoonal conditions of the last week - but did you know that it "rains fish" as well? - sounds dubious doesn't it. Not according to the ABC Tropical North listeners who phoned in with their raining fish stories today. The talkback was instigated by Craig Hall during his weather cross when he mentioned a case in the US when a man walking down the street heard a flipping noise behind him and he turned around to find that it was raining fish. Apparently what had happened was a Tornado passed over a river and picked up the fish and took them into a thunderstorm, to come down in the next shower behind the man in question. When listeners with experiences of this phenomenon heard this, they raced to the phone to share their stories. And it wasn't just one incident - locations including Proserpine, Mirani, Bloomsberry and Bucasia were mentioned and on different occasions ...' .............................. Austral-Asia's very own Bermusing Triangle ... ------------------------------
Onsight 9-Mar-2005 12:10:41 AM	On 5/03/2005 HEX wrote: >Look-out simeyonsight --- damouseismakingprogress ... Cheers Hex. I’m not looking out but looking forward to seeing a lot more of da mousey’s pics around. I wish him well and will be the first to congratulate him if he can make a ”go” of it. >http://www.climbing.com.au >Rhinckle --- press the ' news ' tab ... first update in six months - “news”? From the “news”… >“This is the first one day, free ascent of Ozymandias Direct.” 1+1+1=1 eh? The significant point about this great send, missed here and by others, is that it’s the first continuous free ascent of the entire route (and, BTW, the final ascent was done in a day). Least it wasn’t misreported as “ground up” like elsewhere (eh Eddy?). >Ozymandias Direct was first freed by Steve Monks in 1989 over a number of days. Actually… As a general comment directed at no-one in particular… I’d say it appears that nobody much seems to care but just so long as everyone’s aware that the level of journalism in Oz climbing in generally rubbish then everybody’s happy eh? Unfortunately when experienced/knowledgeable climbers can’t report things accurately, or others don’t care about (or understand?) the meaning of basic terminology, and magazines get their news from unchecked news items on the net, then, well, you know we’re pretty much doomed as far as all that’s concerned. Does it matter? Probably not, just so long as everyone’s aware of the quality of what they’re being fed… Oh, and I don’t like seeing significant achievements reported (misreported) as something that they are not. Significant achievements are usually hard, reporting them accurately surely isn't. On 4/03/2005 HEX wrote: > you know ' the press' >--- the great enemy of the world--- the people who are so full of their >own ego-trips, that they don't bother to think about the issues carefully >anymore ... If only it were that simple…
Onsight 9-Mar-2005 1:49:18 PM	I'm not really sure of your point Eddy. Like I said... >and that is why I reported Monique's ascent as "the first >onsight of the entire Totem Pole" - as opposed to the "first onsight of >the (original?) Free Route on the Totem Pole". The way I reported that was 100% accurate. As we saw there's always room for people to make false assumptions and that example just shows how you can - and why it is worthwhile to - get facts straight in the first place. Do you not like that I subsequently pointed out that Deep Play could maybe be considered a variant of the Free Route? Anyway, I've reported a lot of climbing achievements over the years, am sure I would have made mistakes, but it's usually not too hard to get things factually accurate. Rapping in and seperately working the upper pitches of multi-pitch route is no longer "ground up". 1+1+1=3 (doesn't it?). The route had already be freed (arguably). But saying it's first continuous free ascent - now that's really significant - so why not mention that?

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