General Climbing Discussion

Author	Havachatwithhexy...
HEX 3-Mar-2005 7:05:04 PM	-------------------------- Best excuses of all time ,hatman,3/03/2005 >On 3/03/2005 Breezy wrote: >>Breast jams ~ >MMMM jam? Breast flavour? Yourabunchasickoes !!! --- you should be on trial with Mikljackson !!! --- Toe jam, breast jam, dick jam ?? --- I hope you lot drown in smegma !!! -------------------------
alrob 3-Mar-2005 7:09:05 PM	http://blender.com/guide/articles.aspx?id=1420
HEX 3-Mar-2005 7:15:00 PM	>“It’s true I don’t always know exactly what Steve is talking about,” Sovel >acknowledges. “But sometimes I think it’s better that way.” ... hehehe !! THE AUSTRALIAN RE, RETRO-BOLTING OPEN FORUM Friday, 6 February 2004,Climbingjac : >hex-Troll: I must admit, I don't really understand what you're saying!!! You're either >taking the p#ss or agreeing with me. Either way ... hehehe!!
HEX 4-Mar-2005 12:47:38 PM	----------------------------------- On 27 Feb, Nick Frillypants(CragX) wrote : '...IM(H)O the stars attaching to a climb are effectively part of the grade...You should expect a 3 star climb to be ' full value ' for the grade and to be harder than ,say , a 1 star climb... Araps (as elsewhere) is always a good example of this. If you want to break into a grade, start with the 1 star routes ...' Yes, very good advice, cos quite often the 1 star route will be a one-move-wonder --- so what ! --- still has great PSYCHOLOGICAL value, as the achievement of etc,etc,etc is established and can then be consolidated ... Jean on Australia's most famous one-move-wonder ... -----------------------------------
HEX 4-Mar-2005 3:03:00 PM	The Navigator (21) - Any/All beta wanted JBM 4/03/2005 >Guys-Looking for any beta on The Navigator in the Mt. Stapylton area. Any info >appreciated on quality of the pro, how the climb felt for the grade and overall >quality/style of the route.Thanks. simey 4/03/2005 >I feel the route is more like a three-star experience at grade 18 (not 21). Unfortunately >what mars the route is the move at the start of the second pitch which is desperate for >shorter folk (I've heard some people reckon this section is desperate at 21). I don't >really know a good way to avoid this section, so it is a bit of a pity.I'd appreciate other >people's comments as well. A classic 3 star 18 being trashed because itz also( for some ) an epic 1 star one-move-wonder 21 ... This is clearly a case for a well-blended-in, subtle, chiselled-hold, so that the over-all vibe&grade of the route can be maintained at classic 3 star, enjoyable all the way ... Mikl once described Anxiety Nu-ro-sis as '...a really good grade 23, but with one grade 26 move on a sharp hold ...' Just as re-bolting is totally accepted now , so too maybe ' digitally-remastering' a few classic climbs should be accepted as 'acceptable' climbing-community behaviour ...
Phil Box 4-Mar-2005 3:28:45 PM	Oh deary me Hexy, mate, woddya dreamin up now. Please don`t ever suggest that chiseling holds will become acceptable.
HEX 4-Mar-2005 3:39:02 PM	Philby --- just as cliff-conservation is an in-ta-gruel part of the climbing culture so to is the need to satisfy the 21 century climbing-brain which demands solutions NOW !!! ... there are 100s of 1000s of climbs in Aus, so why not start to establish a list of super-user-friendly climbs which goes way beyond the ' selected climbs ' boring-routine-cliched-tour ... Lower-offs stop erosion in gullies etc ... so how-about stopping erosion of brain cells --- climbers can go to the well documented super-user-friendly climbs safe in the knowlegde that etc,etc,etc ...
Bourge 4-Mar-2005 4:05:23 PM	On 4/03/2005 HEX wrote: >Philby --- just as cliff-conservation is an in-ta-gruel part of the climbing >culture so to is the need to satisfy the 21 century climbing-brain which >demands solutions NOW !!! ... there are 100s of 1000s of climbs in Aus, >so why not start to establish a list of super-user-friendly climbs which >goes way beyond the ' selected climbs ' boring-routine-cliched-tour ... > >climbers can go to the well documented super-user-friendly >climbs safe in the knowlegde that etc,etc,etc ... Ha! Hullo! Bourge here on a secret cross thread raid. I would have thought that the super-user-friendly climbs already exist, within suburbia, in the indoor climbing walls. The latter as distinct from the cliff face. Hexy, see you later this arvo at your place for that study session! Bourge
simey 4-Mar-2005 4:50:36 PM	Yeah, it is a pity when one move is really out of keeping with a quality 5-pitch climb. I would consider the creation of a hold on The Navigator to be less of a crime than the chipped holds on Punks in the Gym, London Calling and Hit the Deck, but it would be very difficult to achieve without it looking ugly. You won't see me doing it.
manacubus 4-Mar-2005 5:11:28 PM	Europeans have been embracing the concept of consistency for years. If the route is too hard in one section, drill out a pocket, or better yet, slap on a gym hold. A more subtle method is whacking in a ring bolt in the hard bit to allow for a silver jug bypass. Consistency = classicness = classy = assy
HEX 4-Mar-2005 5:39:03 PM	Itz not about '...crime...' , sime --- itz about time --- the times in which climbing is now context-ed... The state and federal governments have a ' museum ' attitude to wilderness areas in tasmania --- this means that as long as there are large , comprehensively-represented&protected areas of bio/geo conservation, then it is ok to ' sacrifice ' excessive ' representations for the' good' of the broader community... The same applies with climbing --- there ARE massive numbers of climbs, representing all-styles&aspects of the climbing-culture, already firmly 'protected' by the various scenes , locals & ' common sense ' ... the 'time' in which we now find our-selves is inceasingly demanding a certain smoothness-in-continuity-of-experience from the suburban front-door ---> along smooth-well-maintained roads---> to the easy walk-in ---> to 'the bit we came all this way for' ---> and safely-smoothly home-again ... The neo-challenge these-days is to be able to dream-up the ideal climbing-trip & then execute it as smoothly as it is experienced when it drifts sexily around the mind while still in suburia ... the post-modern world is choked with political-correctness and presentz daily ' challenges' at every moment ... more than enough challenges to satisfy those who just want to pour-down the perfect milk-shake&savour the perfect Horsham-Oven-Door danish-pastry of-a-climb... ultimately we are talking about saturation-beta --- nothing left to experience but the ideal experience itzself ...no single grass-seed in the sock that ' spoiled ' that perfect bush-walk ; no single mosquito-bite that 'distracted' from that perfect sunset ; no single move '...out of keeping with a quality 5-pitch climb...' AAAAhhhhhhhhhh !!! --- these ugg-bootz feel SSSOOOOOoooo GOOOooood ....
nmonteith 4-Mar-2005 5:47:35 PM	legendary post mr hexy! 10/10
HEX 4-Mar-2005 5:53:30 PM	................................ *BLUSH-ING !!!* ................................ ============================================ cynics please feel free to contribute below ... =========================================== M ' I luv the missionary-position-only ' 8 : >I would go so far as to say that without the likes of 'trolls' etc to balance out the >dour/serious types like myself ... & we won't mention the microcosm-destruction-inside-of-cracks that your pitoneering causes ... >BTW, ... As an aid climber I like the subtle-silver-jug solution[cos apparently drilling a hole is not the same as a subtle-chipped-jug solution]someone suggested. >This lets those with free-talent do the move, and the rest of us enjoy the climb![enjoy=smooth experience ?] >nuffsed ============================================ youmakinsenseofallthis,simey?... ============================================
simey 4-Mar-2005 6:04:53 PM	Hexy, this is the second time today I've said it, but... What??!!
IdratherbeclimbingM9 4-Mar-2005 6:23:05 PM	simeysaid >I would consider the creation of a hold on The Navigator to be less of a crime than the chipped holds on Punks in the Gym, London Calling and Hit the Deck, but it would be very difficult to achieve without it looking ugly. >You won't see me doing it. Does this mean you intend doing it in the dark? On 4/03/2005 HEX wrote: >the times in which climbing is now context-ed... (snip) >... the 'time' in which we now find our-selves is inceasingly demanding a certain smoothness-in-continuit ... and a disengaging of the brain? or wholesale adoption of the gym experience ethic perhaps? My crap detectors are tingling here! Hexy you are indeed being a troll (trolling) now, ... especially after your close following of Onsights 'ethos in climbing' points of view. The outdoors is exactly that, including the blemishes (to some), of hard moves on otherwise 3 star classics at a lower grade. Has it ocurred to anyone (yet?) that these 'peculiar' climbs might one day be sought after for that very reason? BTW, ... As an aid climber I like the subtle-silver-jug solution someone suggested. This lets those with free-talent do the move, and the rest of us enjoy the climb! You want a smooth experience? ... then go manufacture a climb in a quarry till its as smooth as you want. Rise to the challenge. Don't go dragging down the 'easier tick' hard grades on natural climbs for comfortisations sake!!! PS How are ugghs for edging H-T?
HEX 4-Mar-2005 6:34:14 PM	He said " hexy ! " I said " whaaaa" He said "Hexy !! " I said " whaaa " He said Hexy !!! " I said " whaaa "... He said " HEXY ???!!! " I said " WHATCHOOWANT ???!!! " ...
simey 4-Mar-2005 8:13:57 PM	Even the good Captain would agree that nothing in the climbing world is black and white.
HEX 4-Mar-2005 8:28:25 PM	On 4/03/2005 nmonteith wrote: >legendary post mr hexy! 10/10 " ...Now this I like !! , cos it means that people wen' out an' bought it, before the press had a charnce to rupture it ! ... you know ' the press' --- the great enemy of the world--- the people who are so full of their own ego-trips, that they don't bother to think about the issues carefully anymore ..." Johnny Rotten , after Nevermindthebollocks debuts @ #1 ...
cheesehead 4-Mar-2005 10:18:23 PM	>You obvioiusly havn't gone shopping in place like Chamonix in France! >Europe is full of shops selling 'climbing' clothes and gear for non-climbers. Point taken. And I thought it was utopia becuase you could go to the cafe in Schoeller and plastics and not look out of place. "How do you tell who's insane and who's not?" H. Simpson
HEX 5-Mar-2005 1:22:35 PM	'...who's insane ...' ?? --- oooooohhhh the irony, Cheesehead ... ------------------------------------ Mikey, 5 Mar : >I am not convinced myself (and neither are the athletes at the Australian Institute of >Sport by the sounds of it) but I wondered what everyone else thought... Topic Date User Lactic Acid Buildup, July 2003, climbingjac : This forum topic has morphed from a diet topic to a topic on lactic acid (responsible for getting you pumped). Noone has complained yet, so I'll continue to stray off the topic. I did a lot of research about this a while back and suspect you might all find this interesting: Taken from http://www.brianmac.demon.co.uk/lactic.htm : * As we exercise pyruvate is formed * When insufficient oxygen is available to break down the pyruvate then lactate is produced * Lactate enters the surrounding muscle cells, tissue and blood (aka getting pumped) * Long steady runs (or swims, or chucking laps on the climbing walls) will develop the aerobic capacity by means of capillarisation (formation of more small blood vessels, thus enhancing oxygen transport to the muscles) * If the aerobic capacity is greater, it means there will be more oxygen available to the working muscles and this should delay the onset of lactic acid at a given work intensity (ie this delays onset of getting pumped) Other interesting points to note include: * Haemoglobin carries oxygen * Take iron to boost haemoglobin So: Jac's moral of the days is: To delay the onset of pump, you need to do a few things: * Take iron (eg each lots of spinach!!!) * Involve yourself in long slow exercise (eg chuck laps in the bouldering cave) * Work on controlling your breathing whilst climbing (stabilise oxygen intake) * Allocate one training session per week to getting pumped. Train your body to cope with it! Hope you all find this somewhat useful... jac --------------------------

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