General Climbing Discussion

Author	Havachatwithhexy...
HEX 10-Jan-2005 10:23:54 PM	------------------------------ '...in a sense the variant (aka "Deep Play") is just that, a variant of the Free Route...' Here's an insight, Onsight : Deep Play is a free route --- NOT the Free Route ... Deep Play climbs on the North face of the Tote (to the belay ledge on the East face) , whilst the 1st pitch of the Free Route climbs on the West & South faces of the Tote ( to the ditto )... Deep Play is a variant of the Free Route about as much as Bonnington's South-West Face route is a ' variant ' of Hilary's Yak route, to the top of Everest ... Luv HEX ... with just the slightest hint of :P ---------------------------
Onsight 11-Jan-2005 12:07:05 AM	"Yak route"! Hexy, Hexy, Hex. "Thanks" for the "insight"... Like I said I do recognise the difference (to a degree). >Deep Play is a free route --- NOT the Free Route ... That's all very well BUT the Totem Pole is still the Totem Pole. And Everest is still Everest. And Hillary and Tenzing were still the first to climb it. And what’s even more amazing is that to this very day Hillary and Tenzing still remain the first to climb it (and get down alive again at the very least). Don't think anyone called the South Col route a "Yak Route" at the time did they? Anyway, having been on both the Tote free original and the variant - oops, sorry, "Deep Play" - I can tell you there's not much, if anything, in it. And as such I think your SW Face route analogy is a bit off... I recently started reading "Chris Bonington’s Everest" (a great read BTW) and think that his SW Face route would be better compared to the North East Ridge route in this case, a route Bonington describes thus: "Unclimbed, obvious, long and elegant as a route, it was a magnificent virgin line, the only route left for a new route on Everest. Thus it remains." And Hex, that route is (in)famous because? (No books now). Yes, I know Hex, :P
HEX 11-Jan-2005 7:39:09 PM	C'mon dude !!! --- focus that mental lens !!! --- yawafflin'allovertheshop !!! ... North-East Ridge would be a CONTRAST not a comparison --- and it doesn't even factor into the extrapolations&equations ... Let Hexy dumb-down the anal-orgy, I MEAN ! analogy a bit , for all the grass-hoppers... DP & FR share the same trek-in ; base-camp ; exit/entry ; & (a rather wet) Camp # 1. Then they go their SIGNIFICANTLY (vsv '...there's not much, if anything, in it...' ), different journeys to the East face belay, and then they share the same route to the summit ... SWF & YR share the same trek-in ; base-camp ; exit/entry( Kumbu Ice-fall ) ; & Camp # 1( in the Western Cwm ). Then they go their SIGNIFICANTLY different journeys to the South Summit , and then they share the same route to the (main) summit ... Variants ? or Separate routes ? I thank you for engaging in this quadratic-pedantic-analysis/synthesis, because it has led to Hexy raising the question : Is Rock-mag fast becoming a ' ... there's not much, if anything, in it...' variant of Chockstone/CragX/Qurank ?? ... Luv HEX :-)
James 11-Jan-2005 8:43:28 PM	>Is Rock-mag fast becoming a ' ... there's not much, if anything, in it...' > variant of Chockstone/CragX/Qurank ?? ... > >Luv HEX :-) Not much (if anything?) in it??!!? Rock is just about a quarterly round up of the action of C-Stone... just so you don't have to wade through the mank to find the gold (fools'gold?). Nothing but Neils pics (& yes that's Neil Monteith) & hex's flame-throwers. Every now & then, to no avail, some punk from interstate shows up & tries to compete. never mind the bollocks. >Luv HEX :-)
HEX 12-Jan-2005 9:25:38 AM	hehehe !! James = Baxta ? Luv HEX :-) : <--- these are my nipples !
HEX 12-Jan-2005 6:47:09 PM	--------------------------------- oweng 12/01/2005 >Looks like the perfect excuse to drag out the explosives to me! Sad to ruin such a >nice boulder though.... Maybe Oweng can confirm/confide/concur : Circa 1990, a boulder, roughly half that size, parted-company with Hobart's Organ Pipes, and rolled/skidded/bounced about 300 metres down the scree/scrub slope, and landed fair-BANG-smack in the middle of the summit road, not far from the climbers car-park ! ' Rock-away Gully ' is named after the event ... But wait ! --- there's more ... The South side of this gully is constituted by a high rocky spur, on top of which stands none-other than the Slap Dancer free-standing pillar ... Apparently, directly below Slap Dancer , on the wall of the gully, there WAS a classic hand-crack called Punk (19) , which , since the boulder-event , has become a fist-crack ! --- the rocky spur is VERY rapidly, ( in geological perspective ), in the process of peeling itself off the side of the mountain ... Alrob --- ya better hurry-up and send SD --- it may not be there much longer ... As for the boulder ? --- the council DID use explosives to blast it off the road ... --------------------------------
HEX 12-Jan-2005 7:04:08 PM	Kieran : >Seems to have a fair forest on the shoulder but that's no justification for creating new >vehicle tracks... Yair !!! --- and there's no justification for you to create a fair forest of cyber-spam by re-posting all of the Weasle's words , especially when they sit almost directly above !!! Luv HEX & Edward Frillypants ...
kieranl 12-Jan-2005 7:07:42 PM	Cool down. The post was edited as soon as I could say boo (and before I saw your post). Perhaps you could give a guy a 30 second window to fiddle with this stuff.
HEX 12-Jan-2005 7:09:53 PM	LMAO !!! :-) :
alrob 12-Jan-2005 7:38:33 PM	On 12/01/2005 HEX wrote: > >Alrob --- ya better hurry-up and send SD --- it may not be there much >longer ... actually, if i hold out a while longer, it may begin to fall in the direction of a slab, thus creating an 'easy tick' classic 26
HEX 13-Jan-2005 8:58:14 AM	Yes indeed, Alrob, good point --- in fact that reminds me of the Tony Dignam/Kim Bishoff ascent of the Totem Pole in 1981... Having arrived very late in the day at the ' No Parking ' ledge near the summit of this awesome 200+ ft. spire , they decided to biv-wack the night ...the wind started to increase ... they started to nod-off ... Around mid-night : Dignam : " Hey ! --- can you feel that ? ..." Bishoff : "...Wha ?...Yair ! --- the whole, bloody things swaying backwards&forwards with the wind ! ... "
HEX 13-Jan-2005 12:48:00 PM	------------------------- phil_nev 12/01/2005 >Myself, and alrob, and one other are going to Araps next week monday till >wednesday, your welcome to come along if you like... dalai 12/01/2005 >Sounds Good Phil. I wasn't aware Monday to Wednesday is now a weekend... I only >thought it was Saturday and Sunday!! ;-) phil_nev 12/01/2005 >Well Mr Smart ass... >"Unfortunately I can only climb during the week" >Dont mess with me marty ;) This is funny ! ( amusing/disturbing\fascinating) ... The original message DID say week end , philnev, maybe the gap between week & end confused you / fired-up a ' killdalai !!! ' neuron-impulse ... do you two have some ' issues ' that Drs Hexy &/or Damey can mediate ? ... Dalai --- your ? invention ? & usage of ;-) is very cleva !!! --- not encountered that one before !! --- I luv it ! Luv HEX :-) : ---> ;-) : ---> hehehe !
oweng 13-Jan-2005 1:20:13 PM	On 12/01/2005 HEX wrote: >--------------------------------- >oweng >12/01/2005 >>Looks like the perfect excuse to drag out the explosives to me! Sad to >ruin such a >nice boulder though.... > >Maybe Oweng can confirm/confide/concur : Circa 1990, a boulder, roughly >half that size, parted-company with Hobart's Organ Pipes, and rolled/skidded/bounced >about 300 metres down the scree/scrub slope, and landed fair-BANG-smack >in the middle of the summit road, not far from the climbers car-park ! > > >' Rock-away Gully ' is named after the event ... > >But wait ! --- there's more ... > >The South side of this gully is constituted by a high rocky spur, on top >of which stands none-other than the Slap Dancer free-standing pillar ... > >Apparently, directly below Slap Dancer , on the wall of the gully, there >WAS a classic hand-crack called Punk (19) , which , since the boulder-event >, has become a fist-crack ! --- the rocky spur is VERY rapidly, ( in geological >perspective ), in the process of peeling itself off the side of the mountain >... > >Alrob --- ya better hurry-up and send SD --- it may not be there much >longer ... > >As for the boulder ? --- the council DID use explosives to blast it off >the road ... >-------------------------------- Ive only been in Hobart 1.5 years, so can neither confirm or deny. The Mt Wellington guide certainly tells that story though! In addition to 'Punk' I think the guide also mentions an aid route up a crack, either on, or very close to Alberts Tomb. The description in the guide recomends that the pitons be tapped in very gently towards the top, as the crack tends to widen and spit out all the gear lower down if you drive the pitons in too far....... Sounds great! According to a report on my desk, amongst other instances, the Council has blasted a big rock of the road below the Pipes in 1986, and had a 15 tonne boulder roll across the road below the Pipes in 1996 (glad I wasnt driving along at the time). All in all not a great endorcement of the rock quality!
HEX 13-Jan-2005 1:27:51 PM	To my dearest Oweng ( your ' name ' reminds me of Wyoming Sheep Ranch (A5?) on El Cap ... but I digress ... Thanks for the ' fair forest ' NOT !! --- I'll hafta get Eddy& Kieran to havachatwithya ... NOW ... The rock quality on the Pipes is EXCELLENT !!! --- the ' issue ' amongst other things is the annual freeze/thaw which makes climbing in spring time , a time to be extra cautious, since during the winter, the water seeps into cracks, turns to ice, which then expands --- slowly but surely prizing the rock apart --- and then the ' glue ' melts when the weather warms-up ... Hopeyathumbisbetta! Luv HEX ...
HEX 13-Jan-2005 1:28:32 PM	This post is reserved for some forth-coming creative action relating to our friend Cube-arse... ---------------------------------- In the interim : Oweng --- I have replied sweetly on tutha page Dalai ( '...old,fat,weak...' ) ---Idon'tgivaratz!!! --- I don't waaaaant cleva con-va-sa-shun I never want to work that haaaard !! Do-be-doooooo I just want sum1 that I can talk 2 !!! I like you just the way-ee yoooo-arrrrrrrr !!! Luv HEX & Kristy's ex-husband ... BUMP !! ******************************************
dalai 13-Jan-2005 1:29:13 PM	On 13/01/2005 oweng wrote: >In addition to 'Punk' I think the guide also mentions an aid route up >a crack, either on, or very close to Alberts Tomb. The description in the >guide recomends that the pitons be tapped in very gently towards the top, >as the crack tends to widen and spit out all the gear lower down if you >drive the pitons in too far....... Sounds great! Original aid route up Alberts tomb I believe is the route you are referring to Oweng. Hex - Only 'issue' between Phil and me is he still can have 3 day midweek "weekends" and I am an old, fat, weak, has been climber reliving the good old days on climbing forums...
IdratherbeclimbingM9 13-Jan-2005 3:57:42 PM	Hex said; >Tony Dignam/Kim Bishoff ascent of the Totem Pole in 1981... Oweng said; (snip) >the guide also mentions an aid route up a crack, either on, or very close to Alberts Tomb. >The description in the guide recomends that the pitons be tapped in very gently towards the top, as the crack tends to widen and spit out all the gear lower down if you drive the pitons in too far....... Sounds great! On 13/01/2005 HEX wrote: >To my dearest Oweng ( your ' name ' reminds me of Wyoming Sheep Ranch (A5?) >on El Cap ... but I digress ... Ahh, love it ;-) ... an AID climbers site ~> with expando flakes / (scary aid at least), luminaries from Clouded Queen fame, references to Yosemite and everything!!! (BTW H-T, thanks for the millenium recognition). ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ >Hungry-puck-squarle's You can now see why Aid is a vanishing breed ...? or >the scratching of crampons on the kitchen lino floor? (reading over your shoulder) ... ... Is that a V12 with sit-down-start I see in the background?
HEX 13-Jan-2005 4:24:38 PM	****************************** BUMP !! : D ---> Wha ???---> But ???---> : -O ---> WOW !!! --- M8 managed to pass thru Hungry-puck-squarle's intestines & then re-attach his antlers !!! ...
HEX 14-Jan-2005 4:26:55 AM	--------------------------------- Topic Date User How to save lives by having a big mouth Thursday, 31 July 2003 mikl law '...This topic came about because I mentioned the following "There have been two rescues from Shipley this month, both people dropped because they didn't have a knot in each end of the rope (as they were lowering off), in both cases they went off the main ledge, fell 8 -10 m to a small ledge and stopped on the edge of Shipley Lower (45m). Both guys should recover eventually (one almost lost an eye and an arm)." You'd be surprised how pissed off people are when you ask them to tie a knot in their rope. I've given advice to 2 people now who refused it and both were dead within 25 minutes. They get aggressive (and more stupid) but I believe it is your responsibility to try and do the right thing. Last week at TP (Nowra) I came across a guy belaying with a piton brake bar, whenever a bit of slack developed the piton would start to swing away from the screwgate….. He had no intention of changing his method so I eventually gave his girlfriend a spare stitch plate. They ended up using it, and even left it and a nice note on the car. To give advice without stepping on the ego's of gym bunnies I recommend the following- it generally works :- "Hi, As you can see* I'm old and fat *, so I fall a lot. I've found that if you belay that way, you tend to drop people, and you don’t get old and fat". Even if they don’t take your advice on the day, they might think about it. Mikl...' Dalai --- relax dude ! --- looks like your in good company these days ;-) : -------------------------
HEX 14-Jan-2005 10:48:03 AM	------------------------------- Damey, 14/01/2005 : '...With all due respect, I don't rate the argument much. Where do morals come into it? I would prefer to contribute something to society. Climbing is what you do in the downtime. I don't see how someone dropping out of society to pursue the easy life constitutes any higher moral authority or benefits anyone but themselves. I envy their choice, but it isn't worth anything to anyone. To the contrary, it is the taxpayers and workers who bear more weight in this argument. We pay for the resource to be managed, we have instituted the framework in which the resource is defined and protected. Maybe I misunderstood?...' No Damey --- you've just unwittingly become part of the ever-growing ' old and fat ' Generation X brigade , who wallow-around in ' the good old daze '... Luv HEX ;-) : --------------------------------- I thank Kris(you scaredweirdlittleguyyou!) for his (now deleted) post, which outrageously suggested that while Damo is being a bit ' anal ' , he(Damo) makes a valid ? point that Arapilian climbers are just leeches , ' sucker-fishes ', etc,etc,etc, feeding on the respectable body of conformist society... Apparently ' campers ' and other general park users pull rank over the said degenerate climbers ... Very interesting stuff ! , considering the many C-S posts, on various threadz, that express the view , that the 'classic ' alternate/fringeofsociety/anarchistic Araps lifestyle of ' The Golden Age ' is something to be cherished ... As I have suggested , it is now THAT very generation, growing old,fat,and chained to sacrifice , compromise , and general mediocrity ( Fatboy's yells of despair are still echo-ing in the void...), who are now playing-out the very judgemental roles that they sort to get away from in earlier years ...

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