General Climbing Discussion

Author	Havachatwithhexy...
nmonteith 22-Dec-2004 7:42:55 AM	On 21/12/2004 HEX wrote: >-------------------------------------- >Much of the discussion, (and proposed actions), on Qurank, at the moment, >is being driven-by, what Dr Go-bells referred to as ' sqeamish sentimentalism >' ... much better to have a nation-focus on a bolt-free Ben Lomond while >it *IS* bolt-free ... > Sorry - that battle is already lost. There is plenty of bolt lower-off anchors at the top of Ben Lommond.
oweng 22-Dec-2004 8:09:41 AM	I dont think its the bolts themselves that that people dont want to see on Ben Lomond, I think its bolted climbs. As such rap bolts are seen as being acceptable. At least thats my reading of it. But hey, ive been wrong before, and no doubt will be again.
HEX 22-Dec-2004 1:34:59 PM	On 22/12/2004 oweng wrote: >I don't think its the bolts themselves, [or the bull-dozed&dynamited Jacobs Ladder road, just around the corner...], that people dont want to see >on Ben Lomond, I think its bolted climbs. >As such rap bolts, [ to preserve the luuuuvly flora & prevent erosion in descent gullyz], are seen as being acceptable. >At least thats my reading of it... Oweng --- spot-on,dude !! --- thanx for your ' Local strength, Global reach ' contribution ... Luv HEX & Ben ... ------------------------------------ Dear Philby --- thanx for contributing to a bolt(bolted-climbs)free Ben, hehehe ... Luvin' the action on Qurank, bro !! --- You&Cube-Arse playin' @ goodcopbadcoporwot ??!!
Phil Box 22-Dec-2004 2:33:02 PM	On 22/12/2004 HEX wrote: >On 22/12/2004 oweng wrote: >>I don't think its the bolts themselves, [or the bull-dozed&dynamited >Jacobs Ladder road, just around the corner...], that people dont want >to see >>on Ben Lomond, I think its bolted climbs. > >>As such rap bolts, [ to preserve the luuuuvly flora & prevent erosion >in descent gullyz], are seen as being acceptable. > >>At least thats my reading of it... > > > >Oweng --- thanx for your ' Local strength, Global reach ' contribution >... > >Luv HEX & Ben ... >------------------------------------ > > Well looky at that two of my pics pop up in the most unusual places.
nmonteith 22-Dec-2004 3:57:37 PM	On 22/12/2004 Edward Frillypants wrote: >'There is plenty of bolt lower-off anchors at the top of Ben Lommond.' > >?? > >Reality? > >Or in your head? I rapped off several last year. Shiny new FH's above some of the classic three pitch routes on Frews Flutes.
HEX 22-Dec-2004 5:04:44 PM	-------------------------------- On 22/12/2004 Edward Frillypants wrote: >Or in your head? The following ditty is dedicated to the Old Wave/Guard, sluggin' it out with (some of ) the Techno/Newest Wave-dudes on Qurank : >It's the same old theme since nineteen-sixteen. >In your head, in your head they're still fighting, >With their tanks and their bombs, >And their bombs and their guns. >In your head, in your head, they are dying... Luv HEX & The Cranberryz ,yumyumhehehe... -------------------------------
HEX 22-Dec-2004 6:26:17 PM	---------------------------------- A5--->M8--->6ULDV8?...& Muncher get all philasoficool, as they cut-sick together, as another ethical-set-wave rolls thru the Chockstone cauldron... muncher 22/12/2004 12:02:53 PM Sure climbing has a huge mental aspect involved but as M8 pointed out it is not the only activity that does. Just thought I would point out that in surfing big waves (at least paddle in) it is not just about riding the wave. You have to be switched on the whole time you are out there, paddling out, trying to locate and stay in the take off zone, trying to avoid getting caught in by bomb sets, forcing yourself to stand your ground and wait as a huge set is approaching and turing around and taking off. Trying to stay calm as a huge set breaks right in front of you and puts you through the whole wash cycle before you grab a few quick breaths and get pummelled by the next ones can be extremely hard but as in climbing a scary route, absolutely essential as panicking can have some pretty scary consequences. Whilst there may be moments of relaxation it is usually a pretty intense experience for the whole session and is only over when you are standing on the dry sand, and fu#$ doesn't that come as a relief sometimes. I guess you could compare it to climbing a long, scary, multi pitch route with little option of bailing. M8iswhereitsat 22/12/2004 12:15:10 PM I have done both (at a level some would consider foolish). They are similar in some ways, but completely different in others. Due to having more experience in the surf (arena), provided I had appropriate equipment (read rhino chaser gun-board), I generally did not feel 'out-there-uncomfortable'. Perhaps this was because its a dynamic medium and the relatively calmer times between sets allows a degree of recouperation. On the other hand I find a long runout on thin pro (particularly with the timeframe involved in aid or solo), a different kind of fear ! The savouring of the moment when it becomes extended allows the mind to dwell on the consequences with much more detail ... ? muncher 22/12/2004 1:46:43 PM Hard to disagree with you there M8, I guess there are few things like a ropelength of bodyweight placements to truly keep you focused and in the moment for hours at a time (not that I would know being mostly a sport climber/boulderer). As you pointed out, they (scary climbing and big wave surfing) are worlds apart, perhaps the only similarities can be found in what you get out of them, which can be even harder to explain... ---------------------------------------------
IdratherbeclimbingM9 23-Dec-2004 11:39:52 AM	Ahh the memories, ... Like the (doctored) pic H-T. 6ULDV8? >Your grading system is f#@ked (sic) !! Sexual deviate indeed !!! ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ WM >don't tell me the addax likes dropping in M8? Usually I am the one caught on the inside; but as far as the pic goes ... > It looks like a 'small' but glassy day at Waimea. The place doesn't really break till 18' and at 20' it starts to look like the pic; at 25'+ its awsome ..., after that it closes out depending on swell direction, (I am not an advocate of sitting in closeout conditions waiting for small ones simply to get a decent corner) ... The bloke skimming the pit is obviously setting up the wall. The bloke on the yellow board (very reminiscent of my old 9' 8'' with soft V and a diamond tail) is obviously cruising and doesn't look like he is fading the other fellow. Having surfed it at that size (and larger), it really is a short wall and many (other) people find themselves inadvertantly having dropped in* so they simply get to their feet and trim out the shoulder. * This is because everyone paddles for it in case the inside guy wimps out. By the time they realise the insider is 'on' they can't back off without being sucked over the falls, so they trim it out. Real drop-in-merchants there, would fade the inside bloke into the pit ! PS The yanks have a different system. Often they regard whoever gets to their feet 1st as having right of way ... PPS It looks like H-T has buggered off out the backdoor in the pic. Midget Farelly did exactly this at Waimea once in a contest. Blew the judges away with his audacity, but spent the rest of his heat 'surviving' the hold-downs and whitewater ... Back to climbing; Would someone trying to overtake me on a slow aid lead get right of way ??
WM 23-Dec-2004 11:48:31 AM	don't tell me the addax likes dropping in M8?
wombats 23-Dec-2004 12:11:49 PM	On 13/12/2004 HEX wrote: >--------------------------------- >On 13/12/2004, Wombatz wrote : > >>all is going well, ain't nothing wrong with her mouth or fingers... > >MEANING ??!! > >Wishing you, ( & the CragX administrator ), a speedy recovery ! > >Luv HEX ...he he he ... I MEAN !!! ... ho ho ho !! ... >--------------------------------- > MEANING that she can still TALK & TYPE.. Cheers for all the well wishes people. Have a Merry Christmas. PLU.
WM 23-Dec-2004 1:51:34 PM	you call that 20 foot!?!? I don't reckon it looks like waimea - it doesn't pitch so much when its this 'small'. And when it does pitch it has boils. Am I right Hex? > Would someone trying to overtake me on a slow aid lead get right of way ?? my 2c: whether its aid or free the faster team doesn't have "right of way" and should ask nicely but IMO slow parties should always let the fast team pass at the first opportunity - OTOH the fast party should always wait for the slow party to prepare for the pass if required. eg Hans Florine has a reputation for being polite when passing the newest of bumblies even when attempting to set speed records in Yosemite/Tuolumne. There's often differences of opinion on whats a "passing opportunity" - in the US it can mean them pulling on all your gear, clipping it all, and literally climbing over the top of you! What really sux is if they *think* they're faster - but aren't!
IdratherbeclimbingM9 23-Dec-2004 3:00:24 PM	On 23/12/2004 WM wrote: >you call that 20 foot!?!? Ok, I will concede 25 ft !! >I don't reckon it looks like waimea - it doesn't pitch so much when its >this 'small'. And when it does pitch it has boils. Am I right Hex? (sorry H-T, but I will bite the bait ... You can confirm from your source to adjudicate!) I reckon its too fat for a shoulder at Sunset and not square enough in the trough for Pipe. (You watch, ... H-T will probably say its some tow-in cloudbreak now, which would be my second choice of location). Boils? Yes, Waimea has boils; ... occasionally lots, sometimes none. The number and size varies greatly with swell direction, wind & sea conditions, tide etc. It also greatly depends upon which wave in the set it is, and the number and size of the waves in that set. Under the last of Hexs kisses and in the foreground appear to be the beginnings of boils, as well as possibly below the path of surfer edging the pit, ie 2 for sure and 1 extra possible ... Because of this I reckon its probably the 1st wave in the set, (ie general absence of boils). What struck me most about the place was how much the wave changed in character with the addition of a few feet in height. At 18' it crumbled/rolled; at 20' it had a looping tube in the top 1/3rd; and at 25' it barrelled for 2/3 its height, but with an almond eye instead of a pipeline style square base. If it ever pitches top to bottom you are looking at large conditions indeed ... The surf could go from pleasant 25 ft to unpleasant/unrideable conditions quite quickly depending on the duration of the swell. I have experienced closeout conditions at that place, but fortunately for me those waves were not the norm on that day, ... just $hityourselfbigblackmuthas rising a couple of times from the deeps! >> Would someone trying to overtake me on a slow aid lead get right of >way ?? >my 2c: whether its aid or free the faster team doesn't have "right of >way" and should ask nicely but IMO slow parties should always let the fast >team pass at the first opportunity - Why? What about potential rockfall / dropped gear etc.? >OTOH the fast party should always >wait for the slow party to prepare for the pass if required. eg Hans Florine >has a reputation for being polite when passing the newest of bumblies even >when attempting to set speed records in Yosemite/Tuolumne. Good. If its an agreed thing between the parties concerned. >There's often >differences of opinion on whats a "passing opportunity" - in the US it >can mean them pulling on all your gear, clipping it all, and literally >climbing over the top of you! Sad to hear. This is also akin to what I have heard about climbing classics in the European Alps. > >What really sux is if they *think* they're faster - but aren't! Spot on cobber. Horses for courses perhaps? Theoretical eg; If HB came upon me on the Nth Wall of Buffalo, I would most probably let him pass and marvel at the display of skill and daring! ..., however if he came upon me on a wall at Bungonia I'd tell him to bugger off and regard him as foolish for having ascended behind me! * ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ *Retro-edit for clarification: This is because I regard the walls of Bungonia as quite dangerous due to loose rock. So much so, that I would even be reluctant to walk through that gorge if climbers were on the Nth wall there, (in particular the 'Big Red Supergiant' headwall area). One climbing party above another there would be an accident waiting to happen ...
Breezy 23-Dec-2004 3:08:45 PM	On 23/12/2004 M8iswhereitsat wrote: > (snip) >Horses for courses perhaps? >Theoretical eg; If HB came upon me on the Nth Wall of Buffalo, I would >most probably let him pass and marvel at the display of skill and daring! >..., however if he came upon me on a wall at Bungonia I'd tell him to bugger >off and regard him as foolish for having ascended behind me! LOL
HEX 23-Dec-2004 4:20:10 PM	---------------------------------- Addax : '...It is recommended that for following pendulum leads, roofs etc that the user clips the base of the jumar/s to the line. This stops torque forces twisting it off, and is particularly important on the upper one when bypassing tied-off points or gear...' Abitroughbut Hopingthiscontribztoconveyingdaconcepts ... Luv HEX... -----------------------------------
HEX 23-Dec-2004 4:20:42 PM	---------------------------------- For those who may not know, but care to know... First Australian ascent of Mount Everest : Route : ' White Limbo ' (New Route on North Face) Bottled Oxy ? : Sans Year : 1984 Summiteers : McCartney-Snape & Mortimer At around the same time, 2 climbers were killed on the Australian West Ridge Expedition ... ---------------------------------
PN 23-Dec-2004 4:22:48 PM	On 23/12/2004 HEX wrote: >.mm After a boozy lunch the Hex struggles with the keyboard
IdratherbeclimbingM9 23-Dec-2004 4:28:45 PM	On 23/12/2004 Damieta wrote: >On 23/12/2004 HEX wrote: >>.mm > >After a boozy lunch the Hex struggles with the keyboard S/He is just reserving spaces for lengthy replies in the making? Making up post numbers for a record breaking attempt? I thought the cauldron was (H-T 6/9/04) >The cauldren has received a total-high-pressure-hose-clean and is now out-of-service... but it appears to have been resurrected (again on 22/12/04)? >another ethical-set-wave rolls thru the Chockstone cauldron... ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ >M-8 (" M-aaaaaate !! ") --- these a new post for ya, tutha page ... Yup; already cross referenced (retro-edited) your scan pic to the original thread. (Thanx)
HEX 23-Dec-2004 4:42:19 PM	---------------------- " Ssswot aryeee tawkin' bout Damozzzz ?...." Wombatz --- I wasn't fa one moment suggesting you were a 6ULDV8 ............ hehehe... M-8 (" M-aaaaaate !! ") --- these a new post for ya, tutha page ... Cauldron ? --- nahh --- just a bit of retro-psycho-somatic conditioning of the masses by Dr HEX ... hehehe ... --------------------------------------
HEX 24-Dec-2004 6:19:08 PM	------------------------------- " I did all my Chrissy shopping at Rock Hardware !!! --- thanx for the top quality service, guys !!! " ................................. Topic Date User Chockstone Sponsorship Monday, 16 June 2003, Mike : Chockstone now has a sponsor in Rock Hardware, who provide excellent prices on climbing gear. Steve has kindly agreed to help us pay Telstra's web traffic fees, which have been growing alarmingly as Chockstone has become more popular. To launch this deal, Steve has decided to offer Chockstoners FREIGHT FREE mail orders within Australia! All of Steve's prices are well below RRP, but he's also offered a number of specials. Steve wants me to highlight his desire to talk to customers personally not just to establish good customer relations, but also to make sure people know how to use the gear they buy. (This is one of the reasons why he didn't want a totally on-line ordering system). You can call Steve on (03) 5441 8886, or use the link at the bottom of Chockstone's menu to see a full price list. Lastly, I'd like to reiterate, that Chockstone has not "gone commercial". For the last year that we've been on the air the web hosting fees had been largely ignored by my work, who host this site. Unfortunately, someone added up the cost of all the traffic this site produces, compared it to Telstra's bill and presented me with the option of shutting it down, paying the bill myself, or getting sponsorship. Given the monthly amount in question, I opted for the later, and I'm hoping it will prove beneficial to all, though I'll not personally gain by it, other than having the site on-line for the foreseeable future. So, please take advantage of Steve's freight free offer. He's a good friend, whom I've climbed with several times. He's a qualified instructor as well, so he really does know what he's talking about. He loves talking about climbing, as do we all I suspect... ........................... Rock Hardware & MikeB --- Hava very merry Chistmas & a HUGELY prosperous new year !!! --- You people are doing a fantastic thing by sponsoring & hosting Chockstone, which is defiantly emerging, (with it's 2 'moons' of CragX & Qurank),as a MAJOR new force in the Australian climbing culture ! --- bringiton&keepitstrong !!! ... Luv HEX & all the other Chockstone fans&fanaticz ! ... ----------------------------
Dave C 24-Dec-2004 8:04:49 PM	>Rock Hardware & MikeB --- Hava very merry Chistmas & a HUGELY prosperous >new year !!! --- You people are doing a fantastic thing by sponsoring & >hosting Chockstone, which is defiantly emerging, (with it's 2 'moons' of >CragX & Qurank),as a MAJOR new force in the Australian climbing culture >! --- bringiton&keepitstrong !!! ... > >Luv HEX & all the other Chockstone fans&fanaticz ! ... >---------------------------- > Too right Hex, well said! Have a good Christmas & New Year.

Home | Guide | Gallery | Tech Tips | Articles | Reviews | Dictionary | Forum | Links | About | Search
Chockstone Photography | Landscape Photography Australia | Australian Landscape Photography | Landscape Photos Australia

Please read the full disclaimer before using any information contained on these pages.

Australian Panoramic | Australian Coast | Australian Mountains | Australian Countryside | Australian Waterfalls | Australian Lakes | Australian Cities | Australian Macro | Australian Wildlife
Landscape Photo | Landscape Photography | Landscape Photography Australia | Fine Art Photography | Wilderness Photography | Nature Photo | Australian Landscape Photo | Stock Photography Australia | Landscape Photos | Panoramic Photos | Panoramic Photography Australia | Australian Landscape Photography | High Country Mountain Huts | Mothers Day Gifts | Gifts for Mothers Day | Mothers Day Gift Ideas | Ideas for Mothers Day | Wedding Gift Ideas | Christmas Gift Ideas | Fathers Day Gifts | Gifts for Fathers Day | Fathers Day Gift Ideas | Ideas for Fathers Day | Landscape Prints | Landscape Poster | Limited Edition Prints | Panoramic Photo | Buy Posters | Poster Prints