General Climbing Discussion

Author	Havachatwithhexy...
HEX 29-Nov-2004 2:37:02 PM	--------------------------------- --------------------------------- " F@#$%&*HELL !!!, HEXY !!! --- Ya know you're involved with a chart-toppin' thread when ' the establishment ' starts doin' things like that !!! ---Nicebittacyberstealth there, Mike... I approve of that !! --- Nevermind the bollocks, Hexy --- just rememba : Too many people had the suss ! Too many people support us !! An un-lim-it-ed amount ... Too many outlets in an out !!! WHO ??!! Havachatwithhexy !!! Havachatwithhexy !!! Havachatwithhexy !!! ... Awwwwwgaaawwd !! --- F@#$THIS...--- I'm goin'downth'pub ! --- commizeratin' is OK, but I'm sure they'd prefer us to be CELEBRATING great-lives-lived !!! ..." ---------------------------------- ----------------------------------
HEX 30-Nov-2004 1:50:11 PM	----------------------------- ----------------------------- From the Craglettes web-site (and composed by the same legend who trashed the pure/spectacular Sky Rocket Buttress, on Hobart's Organ Pipes, with a mega-u-bolted-etc,etc,etc ... ........................... '...Areas with Special Status This tends to be contentious! Sometimes people will complain after a bolted route has been put up that such-and-such a cliff should have been left bolt free. Pretty pointless whingeing then! The important issue here is consensus among the wider climbing community. It's not something defined by an individual. For instance, personally I think some great bolted climbs could be added at Ben Lomond; I'm not going to do any though as the consensus appears to be to leave the place bolt free. So what is the current consensus? Area: Current Attitudes: Ben Lomond Cliffs No bolts on climbs (although bolted rappels can be added) "Established" Wilderness cliffs (eg Frenchmans, Geryon, Federation, PB) Things are a little vague here. I know Geryon already has bolts and I think Frenchmans may have too (?) so presumably a bolting precedent is established. It's also true though that these cliffs, especially Federation and PB, have a strong "adventure climbing" tradition which should be respected. Wilderness crags with no previous climbing If you're the first to climb at any cliff then climbers aren't going to complain about placeing fixed anchors. The rest (ie almost all the popular or accessible cliffs in the state) Fixed anchors on new routes are OK (but follow the usual guidelines). National Parks deserve a mention as, in some, the managers have taken a hard line interpretation of the national parks act and descibe bolting as illegal. This is contrary to long established tradition and tends to be ignored by climbers. Keep a low profile. A recent example of bitching over this issue followed Sam and Stefan's climb "The Saphire Rose" at Fingal (incidentally, one of the State's best routes). Apparently, Robert McMahon thinks Fingal should have been left bolt-free, and has poured a fair amount of vitriol onto the pages of "Rock" magazine to that effect. Irrespective of the bolt versus no bolt arguments the fact is that Fingal never had a no bolting ethic; certainly not one that had any wide understanding in the climbing community...' ....................... ------------------------------------------- Hexyz view : FROG BUTTRESS DE-BOLTED ??!! --- It ain't gunna happen and shouldn't happen ... Rock climbing at Ben Lomond goes back to the 1960s and yet ALL the climbs still remain bolt-free --- itz time this place got Australia-wide recognition as the nation's # 1, wigglies-only-destination... Frog,however, has become, over-time,by design&default, a classic mix of all styles ... It is important to note that plenty of fixed-pegs and 'cleaning' of rock was part of the 1970s golden-age --- not as ' pure ' as some would rem-in-iss ... ; Apparently Australia's first 23 was put-up @ Frog, by Henry Barber, only to have it down-graded , a grade or two , after some ' loose rock ' was removed from the corner, by some over-zealous locals... ; Many of the corners at Frog appear to be ' fused --- the reality is that there is quite often a finger-size crack hidden behind a thin veneer of trachtite/whatever, which smooths-out the back of the corner --- this is what consistuted the ' loose rock ' that was hammered-out after Henry's ascent ... Aid-routes, pin-scarz, THAT sebco-drill on BCT,and of course THAT bolt on Yoddle-up-the-Valley ... Thatz all part of the rich heritage that makes Frog the all-round-great-crag that it is today... Debrillia , Imamop , Whistling Kite --- Frog can accommodate&assimilate them all ... De-bolting Frog Buttress will achieve nothing except insulting the neo-styles of the '80s & '90s , which blend in very well by not messing with the integrity of the classic crack-climbs ... A 1980s Rob Star-chef-ski quote : " Comparing Frog Buttress to Ben Lomond is like comparing a Malvern Star push-bike to a BMW motor-cycle "... Now, just what did he mean ? ... ------------------------------------- -------------------------------------
Phil Box 30-Nov-2004 4:28:42 PM	"A 1980s Rob Star-chef-ski quote : " Comparing Frog Buttress to Ben Lomond is like comparing a Malvern Star push-bike to a BMW motor-cycle "..." Nice quote hexy, excellent summation too on the Frog debolting issue. I agree, debolting Frog aint gunna happen. As for comparing Frog and the Ben I would go further to lay claim that they should not be compared. Yes they are both crack destinations. Frog has a ready consumer feel about it whereas Ben Lomond is definitely an adventure crag extraordinaire. Frog appeals to the masses somewhat whereas Ben is where one goes to feel out there on soaring crack multi pitch lines. They both have their own character. Note that all of the above is an opinion from someone who loves to climb, doesn`t really matter where it is or what sort of climbing it is, I enjoy it all. As I`ve said before I haven`t met a climb yet that I didn`t enjoy. If I`m going up I am in heaven, just let me at it. It`s the rapping over the edge that I hate, brrrr, shivers down my spine every time I have to head over that first bit of a rap. Once I`m on the rope proper I`m fine with it. Just don`t ask me to take a swing or heaven forbid, fall.
HEX 30-Nov-2004 6:35:29 PM	---------------------------- On 30/11/2004 Phil Box wrote : >Nice quote hexy, excellent summation too on the Frog debolting issue... On 30/11/2004 WM wrote : >...Would be quite revealing IMO, and would probably encourage 'good' posts. (Either that >or Hex will open a million accounts and vote himself to the top of the list all the >time...) Philby --- thanx fa voting Hexy to the top of the pops again ! , hehehe ... WM --- good idea ,dude ! ,re : ' encourage 'good' posts --- I look4ward to Damo/bourge sluggin' it out with Elmo ... Now, Philby --- re : >It`s the rapping over the edge that I hate, brrrr, shivers down my spine every time I >have to head over that first bit of a rap. Once I`m on the rope proper I`m fine with it. It amazes me that people do (and are taught to do this !) --- walking back-wards over the edge of a cliff, (to get established on the rope-proper/easy-slide-down), only puts ya teeth at risk if ya feet slip-out from under ya --- much better to grovel on ya guts until ya get past the cliff-edge --- not very ass-thetic, but a lot easier on dabrain ... Luv HEX ... -----------------------------
HEX 30-Nov-2004 7:10:31 PM	-------------------- Can we retro-vote ?? --- I luuuuuuv this one... Topic Date User Havachatwithhexy... Thursday, 14 October, 2004, bourge de menteur : >Damos, Damo, Damien? Damietta? Wanker!! Earth to.... >Hex is overdue for a serious pasting! I think it's time fo you to reincarnate under a >different guise and supply said pasting before Hex's ego-driven fairy land engulfs us all !!! ----------------------- BUMP~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
oweng 1-Dec-2004 7:57:28 AM	Exciting times for Ben Lomond fans. The tassie trad 'super-crag' will be unmasked early next year witht he publication of Bob and Gerry's new guidebook. Yum. No doubt filled with interesting history pieces, and (hopefully) a succinct summation of the bolt-free status of the ben.
Phil Box 1-Dec-2004 10:19:16 AM	Hex wrote with much perspicacity. "It amazes me that people do (and are taught to do this !) --- walking back-wards over the edge of a cliff, (to get established on the rope-proper/easy-slide-down), only puts ya teeth at risk if ya feet slip-out from under ya --- much better to grovel on ya guts until ya get past the cliff-edge --- not very ass-thetic, but a lot easier on dabrain ..." Couldn`t agree more. I am part of the grovel brigade. I also teach new climbers and abseilers that there is no shame in grovelling over the edge. I teach them to either grovel somewhat or do a bit of a downclimb type thing paying attention to both their feet and their rope hand.
PN 1-Dec-2004 3:16:02 PM	Merry Christmas all! Love Damey and the Hoff
dalai 1-Dec-2004 9:23:52 PM	Happy Birthday Hex...
James 2-Dec-2004 7:44:43 PM	right on hex. if you listen to certain of the boonaahh-(b)ar-flys* the biggest problem with Frog is there's no lichen on the rock anymore!! >we're so pretty, oh so pretty, we're............... *hex gets another vote if he can guess which 'fly... ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ true phil, re the orchids, but the above still stands re lichen.....seen any pics of Frog from way back when hexie was a knee-high to a >GRASSHOPPER??
Phil Box 2-Dec-2004 8:19:12 PM	It`s not that there isn`t any lichen on the rock anymore (smatter fact there is still plenty of lichen on the rocks there), it is that Orchid Alley is completely denuded of, well, orchids.
HEX 4-Dec-2004 4:27:53 PM	~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~BUMP... ------------------------------------------- ------------------------------------------- SHIVLING ( ' God Shiva's Penis '... ; 6,500+ metres ; Indian Himalayaz ) Rick climbed the East Ridge/Pillar (left skyline) in 1981, with GregC, GeorgesB , DougS.............DonW...?... **************************************************************** http://www.rockclimbing.com/forums/viewtopic.php?p=943295#943295 ------------------------------------ ------------------------------------
HEX 4-Dec-2004 6:10:53 PM	--------------------------- jackie, The Future !! , 24/11/2004 : >On 24/11/2004 shaggy wrote: >>Hey Jackie, Have you been watching too much Star trek?? >What Shag-sta you mean to say these funky devices exist? Madness..! Dalai --- Thanx for the cyber-cake ... Buuuuuurrrrppp !!! ... now here's a prezzyfromHexy to keep you climbing in your dotage ... http://www.gekkomat.de ---------------------------
elmo_lives 4-Dec-2004 7:46:55 PM	itll change aid climbing as we know it! all you have to do is find a wall that is perfectly flat and smooth
HEX 5-Dec-2004 6:29:24 PM	----------------------------- In the rush to get Rock-mag, http://www.rock.com.au , into the xmas-stockings, Rick won't get a mention until April 2005 ... Topic Date User Rock, not the final issue? Wednesday, 21 July 2004 , manacubus : >Due to the online revolution, print magazines will never again be a source of current >news or information. Everything breaks on the web first. Magazines can only seek to >play “catch up and compile”, presenting so-called current events from the period >everyone has already moved past. There is no need for editors anymore, filtering what >comes out of the horse’s mouth and sanitizing content for mass-consumption. I’ll put >up with spelling errors and Hex’s compulsion to use long strings of full stops if it >means I don’t have to listen to anything coming out of the Baxter-filter. >Online all the way Right-on, Cube-arse !!! ... -----------------------------------
HEX 5-Dec-2004 6:34:42 PM	------------------------------- This post is currently under construction --- please be patient --- thanx ... ------------------------------
HEX 10-Dec-2004 8:33:23 PM	-------------------------------- IN THE INTERIM ... RIP guitarist Darrell " Dimebag " Abbott , who providead the awesome-speed-metal-thrash sound-track for many-a-1990s, frenetic-sport-climbing experience ... " HEAVY-DUDE-HEXYYYY !!! ..." ------------------------------
HEX 11-Dec-2004 10:24:44 AM	------------------------------------------------- Author Psycho Rob (Qurank.com) Posts: 1300 (9/12/04 ) >Since I am too controversial a member and what I post is always wrong, I will >not post here again. Hope this keeps everyone happy. >Rob Dear Psycho Rob --- head across the cyber-borders , dude !! --- this is the thread for you !!! ... Luv HEX ... --------------------------------
Dave C 11-Dec-2004 10:28:49 AM	What you doing on here on a Saturday morning dude! You should be out climbing. PS As it's the middle of a freezing Friday night here I've got an excuse.
HEX 11-Dec-2004 10:38:32 AM	Just got back, dude !!! --- summer-sunrise-climbing is the go , bro !! ... Luv Hex, Dimebag & Psycho Rob ...

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