General Climbing Discussion

Author	Havachatwithhexy...
HEX 9-Nov-2004 6:59:39 PM	----------------------- nmonteith 9/11/2004 >Snow Flurries was ‘designed’ to be a route for the average climber... >I will not bother to go into a bolt by bolt analysis of why I put bolts where I did. I will >say I placed bolts ... to also guide a climber up the right line... Calling Andrew Penny !! --- comeoutofdacloset !! --- come-back !! --- allisforgiven !! ... ------------------------
Dave C 9-Nov-2004 7:48:50 PM	On 9/11/2004 HEX wrote: >...to abseiling down with a chisel ? ... > >...Now just who WAS that ... I only heard about the chipped hold when I read about Andy Pollitt glueing it to stop it deteriorating. There are probably only 2 or 3 candidates but I'm not going to risk slandering anyone on here.
HEX 9-Nov-2004 9:41:52 PM	--------------------------- & in conclusion to this short 4-ray into all things ' don't mention the war ! ' : Topic Date User Manufacturing, 11 August 2004, nmonteith : >I think the whole chipping debate is quite regionally specific. It is obviously quite >common and accepted on European limestone. My German friend Thomas Wimmer >would decribe to me how i should visit his 'natural climbs' - which I thougth meant >natural pro but to him meant un-chipped. In the USA chipping is shunned on by the >media and most climbers - but it is happening at most 'soft rock' crags. World famous >place like Mt Charlseton is very very chipped. Back in Australia places like Nowra >have very obvious chipping - the first hold on Cheesemonster anyone? The Blue Mtsn >get a bad rap as they usually have quite a bit of hold re-enforcment and the occasional >chipped hold. This has been going on in the Bluies for decades. At Australia's 'premier' >crag Arapiles literally hundreds of climbs have chipped edges and 'enchament'. >Classics such as Punks in the Gym are well known manufactered routes. The >Grampians however does NOT have a big history of dubious manufacturing. The only >one that really comes to mind is Claw's Dive Dive Dive at Bundaleer. Maybe the >Grampians should have better ethics - it is more a trad crag than a sport crag. There >is a lot of un-climbed rock which should be left un-climbed... ----------------------------
HEX 9-Nov-2004 10:02:45 PM	-------------------------------------- Interviews With Climbers Mike 18/08/2004 >Another Update: Louise Shepherd and Gordon Poultney have also agreed to an >interview. Please email me your questions for them. Louise climbed near the top of >women's world standard and authored the Arapiles/Djurite guide. adski 18/08/2004 >Excellent work Mike! You're really racking them in now. >Can't wait to hear what they have to say HEX 20/08/2004 >Since we're all keen to 'hear' the REALLY ,JUICY stuff , here's a brief,basic,back->ground,appetizer , to set the scene ... ' SHEPHERD, LOUISE (1958 - ) , Shepherd was probably the first woman to climb 5.12, with leads like Tales of Power, 5.12b, in Yosemite Valley, Lord of the Flies[ ! ] ,6b and Trojan, 25 , between 1981 and 1985. ... Inspired by woman climbers of the 1970s like Coral Bowman, Shepherd began rock climbing at the age of 20 in Australia. She was, in her own words " one of a growing body of women climbers worldwide for whom a part of the pleasure of climbing was challenging some male assumptions about women's place in rock climbing." During the 1990s, disturbed by mining and environmental mis-management that threatened the cliffs and surrounding land near Mount Arapiles, she took an active role in the Wimmera Branch of the Australian Conservation Foundation. ' ( Greg Child, 1995 ) >Now give us the main-course&dessert, please, Sir ... Hmmmm,yum,yum !!! --- trully fantastic out-come Sir Mike !! Luv HEX ... -----------------------------
HEX 10-Nov-2004 11:18:09 AM	--------------------------- Kim after his first few attempts to free Procol : " Never mind Baxter& Denim --- If I can free THIS one , I will gladly eat MY underwear !!! " >Kim Carrigan was definitely the biggest influence no doubt because it was early on. He and I got together >after I'd been climbing only maybe less than a year. I first met him at Arapiles and then I went up to Mt >Buffalo. I remember he was at Buffalo climbing this big corner and bridging. It was maybe grade 20 or >something. And* he wasn't wearing any undies!* [laughs]... This is before we got together. Anyway, he was >definitely a very powerful influence in my life. When I first got into climbing he was already starting to free >Procol Harum (26) and things like that... Good stuff ! , Luv HEX ... ---------------------------
Onsight 10-Nov-2004 12:32:23 PM	So he actually ate his undies BEFORE he freed Procul?????
HEX 10-Nov-2004 1:04:26 PM	Dunno... --- whydon'tcha askhim !!! : http://www.iceage.com.au/web/index.asp?p=14,14,, Maybe Kim could look at making edible-mango-undies ...
HEX 10-Nov-2004 1:26:29 PM	------------------------ nmonteith 10/11/2004 >in regards to the Gold Coast...closest good climbing is full trad Frog Buttress ...no >world class climbing in Queensland compared to southern states... No sport at Frog ?? ; Not world class ?? --- GETALIFE !!! ----------------------- Debrilla (28) would have to be the best-est, world-class-est, sport-climb anywhere in Australia !!! ...--- but then again, its not "... ' designed ' to be a route for the average climber ..." ... ----------------------
nmonteith 10-Nov-2004 1:35:16 PM	...he asked for "Sport climb & Bouldering" locations. Frog is a world-class trad area. aah i love being mis-quoted....
PN 10-Nov-2004 1:42:56 PM	The Hex finds himself unwittingly stuck in his creation, now the cyber prison of "Havachat" Damnit, now I've created this thread, how do I get out? Eh? Damey? wassat? Wassa? Eh? aahhhhh.......zzzzzzzzzzzzz........zzzzzzzzzz.....
PN 10-Nov-2004 1:47:36 PM	Hexey, the monthly reminder:
HEX 10-Nov-2004 1:48:16 PM	" Not that there's anything wrong with that !! " ( Jerry Sienfeld ) ... ------------------ Evagetthefeelingyouvebeentrolled... hehehe! Welcome back to reality Nielo&Damo... Fancy some of that world-class Queensland ice-cream ?! ... Luv HEX ... ------------------------
HEX 10-Nov-2004 2:16:31 PM	------------------------------ > " What are you doing in that dark, smelly, dinjee shite-hole, Damey ??!! --- come out-side and plway wiv me --- hehehe ! --- second thoughts you stay in dair until you finish a decent short storwy ! , snigger ! " -------------------------------
IdratherbeclimbingM9 10-Nov-2004 2:51:29 PM	The Lost World, The Prow (Crag & Route Beta thread) One Day Hero 10/11/2004 1:14:19 PM >Just wondering if anyone has any info on these crags?, some of the photos look really good nmonteith 10/11/2004 1:28:11 PM >Damo! Another new name... arg. ~> (check the profile) What's with the One Day Hero; Damien; Damietta; Damieta; Damian Jovanovic ? Schizo identity crisis happening here ...
HEX 10-Nov-2004 3:55:30 PM	------------------------------ jack_lasportiva 10/11/2004 >Ok, thanks a lot everybody ! I'll print out all this valuable information, complete the >immigration process, get my permanent visa, my one way plane ticket, bring my >Rocky Mountain Instinct Bike, my climbing gear and my wet suit. >I CAN'T WAIT TO JOIN YOU ! ... " Just stay away from Frog Buttress , fella !!! --- Muhahahahahahaaaaaaa !!! " ... -----------------------------
HEX 10-Nov-2004 4:36:14 PM	-------------------------------- Now , before A5o, Damo & Elmo spiral completely out of control, ( flicking/whipping their labotomiized-t-shirts at each other in the gym ) , spare a thought for etc, etc, etc ... oink and hex-TROLL climbingjac 12/02/2004 >I didn't see anything weird in what Tel wrote. After a review, I still fail to see anything >weird in it... all fine with me, Tel :-) Tasch 12/02/2004 >Actually (even though we have gone completely off-topic) I have a problem with what >Tel wrote. First of all, SO many people have the mistaken assumption that >schizophrenia is about having multiple personalities. This is wrong. Do some research >if you are going to make jokes about mental illness. Which brings me to my other >point: a large number of my friends have a mental illness, and I do not find any jokes >about it funny. Comments like "I came over a bit schizo" may seem flippant but they >offend. I enjoy this forum because it is a (generally) friendly place that is accepting >and compassionate towards everyone - let's keep it that way... -------------------------------- Look-out !! --- here comes the addax head-butt ... snigger ! --- I'm glad you survived Damo's bullet , bro ! ...
IdratherbeclimbingM9 10-Nov-2004 5:20:17 PM	H-T ... >GETALIFE !!! Schizo (2) 'combining form; Split; Divided; Before vowels, schiz~; < Gk. schizein to split.' Funk & Wagnalls Std Dictionary. ... thought spared. :)
HEX 10-Nov-2004 6:08:17 PM	------------------------------ jens 12/02/2004 >Are we going too far?... Most of my friends have a mental illness of some sort or >another. They just don't seem to know it!...Can we not use language in all of it's colour >to get our point across anymore? We can't tell people what to say, but we seem to be >able to tell them what not to say!...Are we a community reduced to yes and no >answers for fear of political incorrectness?! ... no. hehehe ! , Luv HEX ....................aaarrrrggghhhhh !! --- I've become cyber-virally-infected with the Elmo-giggle !!! ... -----------------------------------
HEX 11-Nov-2004 4:22:31 PM	---------------------------- MM --- enuf of the excuses ! --- nevermind the ropes and rapes !! --- you're more likely to get rapt !!! Now just jump on a grey-hound to Horsham & everything will flow from there --- howhardzthattodo ??!! Luv HEX ... -------------------------------
dalai 11-Nov-2004 4:24:38 PM	Wow, how large has that tree grown!! Is Bowyangs traverse or the India Replicator still possible?

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