General Climbing Discussion

Author	Havachatwithhexy...
The HEX 27-Jan-2006 4:20:28 PM	... irony ain't ur strong-point , Neilio ... ...we all know ur doing the right thing --- just don't be so closet-ed about it ... --------------------------
The HEX 27-Jan-2006 5:02:23 PM	On 27/01/2006 nmonteith wrote: >I have at certain times in the last fews years thought about just chopping >entire crags... Marshy >One thing is true though - the internet has meant that more people than ever before >are both aware of bolting issues and have the potential to comment on them. Forums >like Chockstone have signalled, in a funny kind of way, the democratisation of that [which] was previously an activity conducted by an elite... ...tragically, The-Great-Frog-Buttress-De-Bolting-Debate thread(sparked by the death of Rick White) , on Qurank, was destroyed by some international-hacker-dude ... some amazing stuff was said in an open forum, about '...chopping an entire crag...' , which , eventually after much 'democratisation' , led to Frog Buttress NOT being de-bolted ............ even if Squeak DID chop all his own bolts ..." The world doesn't revolve around Lêe Skidmore and Qurank " ( alegedly muttered beyond cyber-space by Rob ...) ...more OPEN FORUMZ ala Kachơong , I say ... ---------------------------------
The HEX 27-Jan-2006 5:48:31 PM	----------------------- Neil asks ... >Again, what is the issue with the glue-in bolts at Arapiles?... if ur genuinely not trying '...to turn Araps into Europe...' --- prolly tơo late anyway... --- then how bout promoting the placement of SS carrot-bolts there , and forcing visitors to clip , one way or another, the real Aussie experience ... Piggys BOAREDOFTHERINGS !!! ....................so am I ... ------------------------------------ -----------------------------
nmonteith 27-Jan-2006 5:49:50 PM	I placed glue in carrots on Cumlittle at Arapiles. My actions speak louder than words!
The HEX 27-Jan-2006 5:54:13 PM	hehehe ! :D ... Neil blew his bolt on cumalittle... ... ah-hem ... well thatz gơod ! --- any negative fêed-back ? .... ' face to face ' ... toe to toe ? ... ------------------------- ... I mean , in all seriousness :I , we're beyond the cultural-cringe of Europising Araps , so lets demand the placement and usage of SS carrots... ...these WERE 'invented' in Austraia, yeah ? ... ------------------------
nmonteith 27-Jan-2006 5:57:57 PM	Got zero feedback - like normal. Its all written up in the SCV database... here it is crossposted for you Hexy! Cumlittle 15m 24 2 x glue in stainless hangerless machine bolts Hilti HY150 Neil Monteith 8/11/2003 Original bolts on this route were very crappy. The first was an early 80's self drill petzel caving anchor with a corroded aluminium hanger. The second bolt was the worst of the worst - a bash in SRT rivet bolt - 8mm of button headed death. I broke the hanger on the rivet when i tried to crowbar the bolt out. Proberly would have held about 400kg max. Because of the location of this climb i chose to use hangerless machine bolts to minimize the visabilty of the bolts. It only takes 5 minutes to run to the top, throw a rope down and pre-place the quickdraws anyway. The route looks desperatly hard! Pic of the two original death trap bolts.
nmonteith 27-Jan-2006 5:58:48 PM	see ya Mundy folks... im off to get wasted.
The HEX 27-Jan-2006 6:03:26 PM	HA HĂĂĂĂĂĂ !!!! --- take Alrob with ya!!! :D >Got zero feedback... ... no news is gơod news ... ...cêepthecarrotscumming;-) ---------------------------
The HEX 27-Jan-2006 7:04:03 PM	-------------------------- Chalkischeap >There will always be debate over particular climbs and rightly so. By all means >disagree with someone over a specific case but... http://au.news.yahoo.com/060126/2/xqi6.html ------------------------------------
The HEX 27-Jan-2006 10:18:30 PM	--------------------------- Summary of Fires - State Situation. Updated at 4.30pm Fire activity across Victoria 27/01/2006 MT LUBRA / GRAMPIANS Status: GOING Fire size: 124,500 Hectares Biiiiiiiiiiiiiig area ... I bags Neil goes and jump-tests all the glue-ins he's placed in the affected areas ... .................................. ' rat >Rosea and Bundaleer are well and truly cooked I'm afraid... ... not to worry ... Bundaleer had the soul scorched out of it a long time ago, when Dive ! Dive !! DIVE !!! got chipped into existence ... ----------------------------------
Super Saiyan 27-Jan-2006 10:19:36 PM	On 27/01/2006 The HEX wrote: >Biiiiiiiiiiiiiig area ... I bags Neil goes and jump-tests all the glue-ins >he's placed in the affected areas ... Speaking of which- does the fire affect the glue, the bolts or the rock surrounding the bolt that much??
The HEX 27-Jan-2006 10:23:09 PM	...thatz what crash-test-dummy-Neilio is gunna find out for us ... hehehe ... --------------------------------------------- ... but yeah... I think it does ... ----------------------------------------------- ... also beware of fire-exfoliated flakes ... greengirl >the leader must never fall - especially now after the intensive bushfires and the loose >holds that they must have inevitably have created... ---------------------------
Super Saiyan 27-Jan-2006 10:32:03 PM	the resemblance is uncanny... -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- kinda like a cyborg head of SCV... turn to the dark side *****pssssssh******* booooooooolts.....
The HEX 27-Jan-2006 10:35:38 PM	On 27/01/2006 obsessedclimber wrote: >the resemblance is uncanny... > ... is indeed !! :D --------------------------------
Super Saiyan 27-Jan-2006 10:35:44 PM	make sure you accessorise neilio! --------------------------------------------------- argh! my cover is blown!! i mean ... ahem... i like trad climbing... no bolts at araps.... sport climbing is for poofters.... must be off...
The HEX 27-Jan-2006 10:40:17 PM	--------------------------- Boaredoftherings & Piggy will save us !!! --------------------------- 'rat >I talked to a DSE wildlife officer at breakfast this morning and did not envy his task of >trying to help injured wildlife or end their suffering... TAKE CARE , BOARED-PIGGY !!! ---------------------------
BoaredOfTheRings 27-Jan-2006 11:22:55 PM	TAKE CARE , BOARED-PIGGY !!! YUM!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Dave C 28-Jan-2006 10:39:13 AM	On 27/01/2006 obsessedclimber wrote: >Speaking of which- does the fire affect the glue, the bolts or the rock >surrounding the bolt that much?? My source here (materials scientist) tells me that two-part glues should cope with the heat OK but single-part adhesives may be suspect. It would be an idea to contact manufacturers and find out the heat tolerance of any glues that have been used or are being used. (I've sent a PM to Neil about this.) The effect on the rock, as Hexy rightly says, will be to cause exfoliation in some places but sandstone does generally cope better than granite. DC (too lazy to change username)
The HEX 29-Jan-2006 6:32:00 PM	+++++++++++++++++++++++++++ MORE DEATH & DESTRUCTION ... ...at Mount York, near Mount Victoria...the man was aged in his 40s ... +++++++++++++++++++++++++++
The HEX 29-Jan-2006 6:39:14 PM	++++++++++++++++++ ... don't chop bolts at Nowra --- the locals can get VERY up-set ... ++++++++++++++++++

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