General Climbing Discussion

Author	Havachatwithhexy...
IdratherbeclimbingM9 1-Jan-2006 2:48:19 PM	Interesting thought connections (?) from various posts. >don't dumbitdown ! ~ (The HEX 30/12/2005 9:39:39 PM) … ~> ”To understand the world the experts live in, think of expertise as an abundant resource and time to respond as a scarce one. The less of a time commitment you implicitly ask for, the more likely you are to get an answer from someone really good and really busy. So it is useful to frame your question to minimize the time commitment required for an expert to field it — but this is often not the same thing as simplifying the question” … ~ (from Hexs link). >itz amazing that no-one has chopped the compressor ... = >but leave the odd old bit in to be marvelled at like some sort of hanging museum ~ (Jonesy @ 20 December 2005 At 2:49:50 PM).
The HEX 1-Jan-2006 4:46:19 PM	----------------------- >hanging museum [of sixth ascent ... ] ------------------------
adski 1-Jan-2006 5:00:48 PM	M9, that's a ponderous post, truly ponderous.
The HEX 1-Jan-2006 5:38:31 PM	------------------ ...not really... just another way of saying ' ... if you have to ask the question, then you probably wouldn't understand the answer ...' ------------------ Jonesy >Oooh now them's fightin words... maybe I didn't pay quite enough attention to your >original post, or could it be that I was digesting an article, marking papers and writing >a thesis at the same time as banging out a quick reply? ... Itz tough being an expert with limited time, eh Jonesy;-) ------------------- Hmmmmmm ... but then again, maybe this thread is the interlectuwal-inspiration/facillitator for all the other Chocky threadz ... --------------------
The HEX 2-Jan-2006 10:23:13 AM	------------------------------------------- BUMP ... ------------------------------------------ Hanging Museums WM 1/01/2006 >Should crap gear be left to litter cliffs in some kind of 'hanging museum' ? .......................... On 7/04/2005 nmonteith wrote: >On 7/04/2005 HEX wrote: >>Best all-round solution would be to digi-photo them, ala Philbyz classic >>' Tibro Tat ' photo , so the heritage can be added to this cyber-museum, >>prefferably with route details included : >>Then carefully, if possible, remove the bolts/pinz/gizzmoz & give them >>to someone 'responsible' to look-after ... >Have no fear Hexy. I have hundreds of the things in my garage at home. >I want to mount them on a board with names/locations ect in the near future... ...getonwithitNeil:-) -------------------------------
The HEX 2-Jan-2006 10:30:05 AM	----------------------- >...so i have time to finish my website and then go cranking :) but its 45 fricken >degrees... ... so diga finish it ? ... didga havacwank ? ... 45? ... a mere ephemeral contingency to deal with ... ---------------------
mousey 2-Jan-2006 11:48:28 AM	yup version 1.1a is on my compy waiting to upload but in the hosting confirmation email thing i got: "...Please allow 1-2 business days for the provision of this service and a further 24-48 hours server propagation time.... " grrrrr
The HEX 2-Jan-2006 4:36:33 PM	>grrrrr snigger ! ... the mousey that roarz;-) -------------------------
The HEX 2-Jan-2006 4:38:29 PM	--------------------------- Mikey lamented: >Understand, if you think ring bolts won’t become the same dated article 20-30 years >from now you need to broaden your vision. They will become even more of an eyesore >to your kids or grandkids than pins are to you now... ...................................... >Ask yourself when you put up that new route, can this be done in the best style of the >day? You will only fool yourself if you charge ahead and grid bolt the route... Errrrrrr ... not clear , Mikey ... I woulda thought that ' ... the best style of day...' , IS to ' ... charge ahead and grid bolt the route ...' Hopefully 2000&6 will be a better 'day' :-) .............................. >The next evolution for climbing will be to remove bolts from routes returning them to >respectable standards. An inevitable contrast to today’s adding of bolts, bringing a >climb down to a mainstream playground. An embarrassing thought to have one’s first >ascent done in better style, by someone else. In this wonderful world of change it is >only a matter of time... C'mon Mikey ... thats like saying if someone climbs pitch 2 of The Free Route on the Totem Pole, and only clips 3 of simeyz ~10 bolts, then they have climbed it in ' better style' ... simey takes time-out from flipping mung-bean&apricot-pancakes @ his cafe, to explain : '...I spent a fair bit of time bolting the second pitch and making sure the clips were okay for shorter folk. I remember Steve complaining that I was taking too long and faffing around, but I really wanted to get it right. I could have easily climbed the thing with half the number of bolts (I ended up placing ten), but I always bolt things for the ground-up climber. One of my pet-hates is people creating ridiculously run-out climbs after rap-inspection...'
The HEX 2-Jan-2006 5:58:56 PM	--------------------------- I was looking on quwank for the classic-great Chop All The Bolts At Frog Buttress debate ... has some c#nt deleted the whole thread !!??!! ... " CUBE-RZZZZ !!!!!!! " ... to show Mikey some 'logical conclusions/extensions' to his pontificationz ... ... anywayz hexy found this ... hehehe;-) .................................... runnit Sketchy leader Posts: 23 (11/8/05 5:51 pm) Reply Re: understanding "against retro-bolting" rational >Actually, there was a pretty massive thing about it on chockstone have a look for the >topic "THE AUSTRALIAN RETRO/RE-BOLTING OPEN FORUM" >There's also a really good quote in the ACT Granite guide from John Smart about the >retro bolting of No Beans for Bonzo at Booroomba that really sets things from the FA's >pont of view. >". . .I left the project alone for years and years until I felt my climbing skill and my >head were in such complete control that I could attempt it . . " >The full thing's pretty long and a pain in the arse to type out, but see if you can track it >down somehow... Neil Monteith Mr. Enthusiasm Posts: 922 (11/8/05 6:30 pm) Reply Re: understanding "against retro-bolting" rational >Yep, your right Runnit. There is lots of very confusing mess in that Retro/Reboltign >topic. It was started by an anonymous chockstone user who wasn't willing to enter >into the Safer Cliffs Victoria debate about re-bolting. Anyone who wanted to view SCV >information had to have a real name - and he wanted to remain anonymous - so he >started his own bizarre topic! ............. >Yep, your right Runnit. There is lots of very confusing mess... Runnit is referring to the guide not the thread, Neeeiiiillllll ... ...However !!! --- I tend to agree with you ! ... a chinese take-away is a 'confusing mess' ... but then itz perculating thru ya mind,body&sooouull...maaaaaan.....MMMmmmm ... However !!! --- you have to understand that in 2003/2004 retro-bolting was very much an acceptable/accepted 'mainstream' activity in the oz climbing 'scene' ... hex deliberately balanced a '...pretty massive thing ...' can of un-opened baked beans...(for all the bonzoz to chew on when it finally ... quite quickly, actually:D ... EXPLODED !!! ) ... in the open forum area 'campfire' ... and the resulting , far-flung, ' mess ' still adorns the cyber-walls of CragX & Qurank ... and now Mikey is swooping in to nibble on the scrapz ... ............................... >so he started his own bizarre topic! ... ... hehehe ... did 'he' ? ... you only found it ' bizarre ' because a cane had begun to fall across ur ' free-hand ' in retro/re-bolting ... ...................... Carrigan got ' a hard time ' from many ppl , for pushing the climbing-grades ... The Hex can accommodate&assimilate a similar martydumb for pushing the ethics-grades ... ;-)) -------------------------------------------------- silence-pervades-for-sometime-buffer-zone... --------------------------------------------------
The HEX 2-Jan-2006 6:46:18 PM	---------------------- ...ah-hem... >has some c#nt deleted the whole thread !!??!! ... " CUBE-RZZZZ !!!!!!! " ...settle-down ppl ... I wasn't necessarily calling Cube-rz a c#nt ... ...oh dear ... Author Comment manacubus Lord of Chalk Posts: 2103 (1/6/05 2:26 pm) Reply ezSupporter Data loss - big ezboard problems >On Tuesday May 31 ezboard's systems were the victim of a very precise and >malicious internet attack. This attack resulted in the loss of a significant amount of >current and historical board postings and interrupted services across all systems. >I can only hope that all our data is restored. We've lost heaps of stuff. kachoong Dave Graham Posts: 550 (1/6/05 2:29 pm) Reply Re: Data loss - big ezboard problems >....what did we loose? manacubus >5+ pages of threads from this forum, close to 100 users, a whole stack of posts from >the Comp Corner forum. >300 posts from Safer Cliffs forum. And that's just what I've >seen so far. >They seem to be gradually restoring things. I keep finding things appearing as I >browse around... .............................. Cube-rz... Philby ... I hope you can cyber-res-erect that thread... :I -----------------------------------------------------------
The HEX 2-Jan-2006 6:59:26 PM	-------------------------- "... with Thecrag.com out of action , I would commit sewerside without shexy..." ------------------------------------
The HEX 2-Jan-2006 8:56:37 PM	------------------------ robin 2/01/2006 >As a climber I believed that historical fixed protection should be left in place providing >there was other adequate protection available. >However a parks vic. manager bought me back to reality. We were looking at replacing >unsafe fixed protection at a climbing crag. He/she was agreable (unofficially) to me >replacing unsafe fixed protection but not adding any more bolts. When I showed >him/her a historical piton that was no longer needed and I said it should be retained >for 'historical' purposes the (unofficial) parks vic respose was 'would you be prepared to >expain the historical significance to a coroner'... OK ... now in all seriousness... I think itz time we had a few 'fenced-off' climbs ... maybe Procul Harem(26) ... well visited crag ... lots of general public ... howbout we fence-off the base of the climb and build a viewing platform in front of the fence... with explainitory notes ... piccyz of Baxter and Kim on F & FFAz ... 20c slot-machine-telescope to spy the carrots and chalk in detail ............................Coke/Hexy-doll dispenser............10%-discount-leaflets for World Climbing;-) ---------------------------------- ----------------------------------
The HEX 2-Jan-2006 9:01:11 PM	---------------------------- 947 posts roped joker >... what do you think of having to tie into the floor on a sling? it makes bluepointing >really hard i think... ...bluepointing... can someone pleaz xplain ... ----------------------------
The HEX 2-Jan-2006 9:06:17 PM	------------------------- DODmister Jan 1 2006 >yes dude,,,,offroad is OK. He did try to find a few speed humps of middle eastern >appearance though. >ever since his "try to ram into a Police Nissan Patrol" (he doesn't like Nissan's very >much) episode at the back of Blackheath pub, he has been a bit itchy. (never did >wonder why they pulled me over?) >then there was his kangaroo bunting safari in the wolgans (they are still clearing up >the carnage) >I have to pay close attention to what his up to when I'm driving him around. I think it is >the new BP bio-diesel I've been feeding him thats made him so cranky all the time. ...DoD funny ! ... me like DoD:-) ... so does Damo ;-) -------------------------
The HEX 2-Jan-2006 9:14:38 PM	-------------------- mrkyle >Everybody is welcome. They just need to register and request access to the route >database. I'll be much more responsive when I'm back from hols and we start to ramp >up the activity a bit. >Kyle. ...OOOOOOOHHHHHHH I C#NT WAAAAIIIIIIITTTT, KYLE !!!!!!! -------------------
The HEX 2-Jan-2006 9:17:19 PM	------------------------------- robin 2/01/2006 >Have never heard of that one. Is that access ban just for climbers or is it for all park >users? If it was just limited to climbers I would refer it to the VCC access officer. Also >I would ignore such a ban if it singled out climbers.... ...' climbers ' are idiots who start bush-fires ,too, dude ... ------------------------------
The HEX 2-Jan-2006 9:29:52 PM	------------------------- '...An international legend and Yosemite climbing pioneer, Doug is one the countries first Certified Rock and Alpine Guides of the American Mountain Guides Association (AMGA) and served as the Association's first president. Doug was dubbed "The father of Clean Climbing," by Climbing Magazine for his 1973 first clean ascent of the NW Face of Half Dome, which was chronicled in National Geographic, June 1974. The climb changed the face of the sport as we know it today...' "...urv got a lot to cyber-learn if you hadn't heard of me, before, hexy ..." ......................................................................................................................"... good call, dude !!..."
The HEX 2-Jan-2006 9:51:21 PM	--------------------------- '...Vertical shelters have been the most recent advance in equipment for the most extreme multi-day routes. Evolving from the Warren Harding's BAT (Basically Absurd Technology) hammock that could be anchored from a single point, the LURP (Limited Use of Reasonable Placements) tent was developed by Greg Lowe in 1974. Though lightweight, BAT hammocks were cramped and forced the inhabitant to lean against the wall, which in a storm ran with cold water. The precursor to the modern portaledge, the LURP tent solved the problem by adding a solid aluminum frame around the bed, keeping the inhabitants away from the wall. During its use on the first winter ascent of the Northwest Face of Half Dome, heavy winds and snow were comfortably survived for the first time in the history of big wall climbing. However, it was initially considered a specialized tool rarely worth the weight, and never made it past the prototype stage. Climbers seeking the comfort of a portaledge made their own. By the early 1980s portaledge use became popular with the somewhat more widely available one person "Cliff Dwelling," manufactured by Mike Graham. Graham also produced a dozen two-person "Fortress" portaledges, which facilitatied the unpeeling of new layers of remote big wall possibilities, and equipped Hans Christian Doseth and his partners who went on to make the first ascent of the spectacular Norwegian Buttress on the Great Trango Tower in 1984...' ...Heeeeeeeeey ... Mikey be hip !!! ... ----------------------------------------- Re: Who invented the Portaledge? Jul 15, 2005 WBraun >Mike Graham aka chief designer of Gramicci Products (probably spelled it wrong) but >it was Mike. >He test drove it on his solo of El cap route forgot that one too, over by the southwest >face. >But I remember him getting soaked to the bone on it because he forgot to seal the top >of the fly. He told me he thought at one time in a half hypothermic state that some >friend of his was sitting next to him and wanted to eat his food. I drove down to El Cap >looking for him when I knew he had topped out and found him walking towards C4 in a >daze. >The first thing he said to me was “talk to me Werner I haven’t spoken to anyone in >days”. :D ---------------------------------
The HEX 2-Jan-2006 10:24:50 PM	-------------------------- Quotes (Jimbo Bridwell) “Your WORST nightmare is my BEST vacation.” "chairs are for PUSSIES, real MEN hang in their harness and don’t need to be comfortable.” --------------------------

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