General Climbing Discussion

Author	Havachatwithhexy...
The HEX 27-Nov-2005 12:24:02 AM	From da North (Torre Egger shoulder in fore-ground)...
The HEX 27-Nov-2005 12:34:29 AM	....... From da West (1974--- !st proven ascent of Cerro Torre )
The HEX 27-Nov-2005 12:40:23 AM	On 20/11/2005 The HEX wrote: >------------------------------ >Cerro Torre 1996 ... > >'...In recent times, surmounting the highest summit mushroom, which lies >at the far end of the flat summit snow field, has become much more difficult >and, à la Maestri in 1970, parties are omitting to climb it. Several years >ago, during a filming operation which involved landing a helicopter on >the highest point of the Torre, a huge cave was dug in the top of the mushroom >to accommodate the film crew and the entrance closed off with a door. It >appears that the hole must have caused a significant weakening in the structure >of the ice and some time later the mushroom keeled over. The net result >is that all four sides are now overhanging and the formation has not been >climbed since 1992...' >................ >Bloody photogs ... > >--------------------------------------- >Cerro Torre 2005... > >http://mcsa.org.za/cpg/displayimage.php?album=24&pos=11 >................. >Looks OK now ... > >-------------------------------------- Therefore this implyz that Lindblade, Parsons and Fantini have climbed the Compressor route ... but no-one has yet made the first Australian ascent of Cerro Torre ...
The HEX 27-Nov-2005 6:13:24 PM	---------------------------- Simey >Chouinard's influence in the sixties and seventies and what climbing protection was >already available... http://www.needlesports.com/nutsmuseum/nutsmuseum.htm ----------------------------
The HEX 27-Nov-2005 6:17:49 PM	------------------------ Sabu 27/11/2005 11:40:08 AM >On 26/11/2005 prb wrote: >>Trouble is, it was a lights-out fall and I have amnesia >>starting from perhaps a minute before the event. That's interesting - maybe >>it takes about that long for the brain to biochemically encode a memory. >it's called the period of consolidation, where a memory has to undergo consolidation >for 30 minutes until the memory can pass into Long Term memory from Short term >Memory. it's based on the theory that the neurons need to adapt or change to allow >the memory to be stored. >with people who have suffered from head trauma for watever reason, the consolidation >is interupted and the memory lost. hence why in many of these cases wat you were >doing before you had the near death experience is somewhat vague if not completely >forgotten... ............................... Topic Date User The singularly most dangerous thing ... Tuesday, 25 October 2005 At 5:52:22 PM Sabu >On 25/10/2005 manacubus wrote: >>I wrote that much and then I realised - I don't remember anything more! >>I have no memory of what I did after that point. I know I didn't fall. >>I must have managed to get a single wire in and then sketch my way to the >>top but I have absolutely no memory of it, and yet the fear of that moment >>is burned clearly into my mind >repression!! :) ............................. Sabu --- solly for calling you a >paste-y-faced little psych-student... ur psycho-technical contributionz are etc,etc,etc ... Sabu " errr I think ur now externalising symptoms of guilt, hexy ;-) ... " ---------------------------
The HEX 27-Nov-2005 6:32:54 PM	-------------------- Simey >I suspect there is no guaranteed 'safe' way to fall off run-out slabs... Turning around and running is not recommended by hexy ... much better to turn around and ' dive' down the slab , hands raised , feet up , cricket-crotch-protector for da boyz , and heavy duty motor cycle jacket , zipped-up... Wooooooo Hooooooo !!! :D just be ready for the jolt at the bottom of the rope , when it swings you round 180 degreez ... ----------------------------
The HEX 27-Nov-2005 6:34:05 PM	-------------------------- Topic Date User Alrob rips it up Sunday, 27 November 2005 At 2:10:35 PM phil_nev >Big Al robertson has kicked of his summer season with a monster of a weekend in the >gramps. He started by ticking his first 27, Angular perspective pitch 1 on friday after >work. He backed that ascent off with a 2nd shot tick of skullthugery (26) the next >morning, then bouldering his seccond V8 (Raceeater) that afternoon).] >Watch this space for more news on this up an coming superstar..... ...................... On 21/11/2005 The HEX wrote: >--------------------------- >JCP >Online Now >20/11/2005 >10:19:20 PM > >>ill be there end of january, all of march, climbing/photoing every day > > > > >Alberts Tomb has 3 options : >1) Sport : Grade 27 fridge-hugging... >2) Aid : Expanding-tied-off-knife-blades-crack... >3) Just the right amount of slack ... > >Something for you to psych-up for Mousey ... take Alrob with you ... he >was dreaming about Slap Dancer a while ago ... might bring him out of his >wasted-youth-phase... ............................ The fruitz of hex therapy ... just the thought of this 27 seems to have done da trick ... WELL DONE ALROBBO !!! ;-)) ----------------------------
The HEX 27-Nov-2005 6:55:56 PM	------------------------ CragX >Sometimes it's difficult to see the bolts that you are climbing to on a slab route. It can >help if you put your face against the rock and look at the "horizon" for clues where the >bolts might be... ?? ----------------------
The HEX 27-Nov-2005 7:15:17 PM	------------------ mousey Online Now 27/11/2005 6:55:48 PM >heya jack!! >im josh, remember me? :P >talk to paul meharg, georgie or mark a...i think you actually met them yesterday?? >they were the guys on bernie (the traversing thing on the left of main wall) >ill send ya their # if ya want? Awwwwright !!! --- yeah I remember you, dude !!! ... you were that funny little bugger running around taking photos in the nude !?! ... thanx for getting my gf 'pre-heated' ... she was absolutely turned-on by those cute little plats you've managed to craft into ya pubes ! ... # ? ... yeah that would be good ! ... and canya send me a copy of that photo you took of me sh#tting in that bumbly's climbing-helmut ... WHAT A LARFFF !!! ... that'll teach him to take it off when the Jack is on the weedywhack !!! :D Cheerz , Jacko --------------------------
The HEX 27-Nov-2005 7:26:10 PM	---------------------------- Agencies to test bird flu plans From: AAP November 27, 2005 '...AUSTRALIA'S first major test of its preparation for an avian flu pandemic will be conducted this week. Exercise Eleusis will run between November 29 and December 1 and will involve some 1,000 people from the Federal and State governments, agriculture and health departments and the agriculture industry. Agriculture Minister Peter McGauran and Health Minister Tony Abbott said the exercise was an important component of Australia's preparedness. Mr McGauran said the exercise would employ a hypothetical scenario to test how well agriculture and health departments could work with industry to identify, contain and eradicate an animal disease outbreak. "This is an opportunity to identify areas where we can continue to improve our emergency response systems," he said in a statement. "The exercise has generated huge interest from overseas and Australia stands ready to share what we learn from the simulation with all countries." Mr Abbott said the exercise scenario included hypothetical cases of people contracting avian influenza. "All Australian health authorities are participating and this is an opportunity to test our emergency response plans," ...' > Adski --- holding ur nose is prolly an inadequate ' emergency response plan ' ... ----------------------------
The HEX 27-Nov-2005 7:41:39 PM	On 18/10/2005 The HEX wrote: >------------------------------------- >One Day Hero >17/10/2005 >6:29:59 PM > >>...I was wondering if anyone if you're out there...has some tips on recovering >a back >injury to stop it reoccuring? I've had it diagnosed by a sports >doctor as "Acute >costovertebral joint sprain T10". >>It was a crunching sensation in the spine followed by a few days of that >"something's >out of place" feeling, muscle tightening and mediumish pain... >>ta, damian > >>if you're out there... ..................... >Earth to hexy ! ............................... receiving u damey ... > >The key thing here is the ' muscle tightening ' ........ the muscles keep >forcing the old injury & the new injury to stay in an awkward position >... the spine to maintain itz now kinky alignment ... very important now >to get lots of massage;-) ... on the entire length of the spinal muscles >... in-co-junction with gentle chiro-manipulation , to ease things back >into place ... the more mall-u-able-flexible muscles will then support >the re-aligned spine(including of course the CNS) ... avoid heavy trad-racks >for a while & be very careful when jumping-down even short distances while >bouldering ... > >>crunching sensation ... > >Could be looking at early stages of osteo, here, bro ... go havabonedensitycheck >... > >Oh,yeah ... and stay off ya treadly for a while ... the hunched possy >will only etc,etc,etc > >Cheers , Dr The HEX:-)) ................... steve Online Now 27/11/2005 >Heavy D sure made light work of at least one tiapan test piece... .................... >The fruitz of hex therapy ... just the thought of this 27 seems to have done da trick ... >WELL DONE ALROBBO !!! ;-)) & WELL DONE DAMO !!! ------------------------------- Topic Date User Havachatwithhexy... Tuesday, 18 October 2005 At 2:11:36 PM One Day Hero >who'd have guessed? a leaf of wisdom floating on an ocean of bullshit! >I'll follow your advice as best I can, thanks doctor Thehex ... " NEXT !!! " ;-)) ------------------------------
The HEX 27-Nov-2005 7:50:06 PM	---------------------- BundyBear Online Now 27/11/2005 7:44:29 PM >On 24/11/2005 Goodvibes wrote: >>Yeah Bundy, and Katoomba is a great place to live if you want to surf, >>close to some great surfing breaks on the South and central coast. >Katoomba is too way too far from the Glen and the Waves. Yeahbut, you can combine the two by risking drowning while canyon-ing :D ----------------------------
The HEX 27-Nov-2005 8:08:07 PM	---------------------- >near death experiences (well, falling..) Many moonz ago , The HEX decided to do a spate of soloing at Arapiles ... up left from the Pines some where, there is a short narror gully with a big chockstone at the bottom ... ya crawl/climb up thru a tunnel/hole under the chockstone/boulder and on the right wall there is a grade 16 ... Maximus ? ... I dunno ... anyone ? ... anyway the crux is near the top ... I found myself attached to this slightly over-hanging wall ready to finish the crux and hence the top and victory ... I had two choices ... let go with one hand and chalk-up a sweaty right hand and risk the left hand hold snapping off, sending me backwards, onto the gully floor, down thru the chockstone hole and ... * official pens report : 'died by misadventure ' ...* or / ... go for it and risk slipping off while cranking on the sweaty hand ... I decided to chalk-up ... The blood-splattered view down thru the chockstone-hole remainz very clear to this day ... Sabu " errr this phenomenom is called ' post exitatory inhibition' , hexy :-) " Great ... whats the friggin climb called ... -------------------------- ----------------------------------
The HEX 27-Nov-2005 8:15:06 PM	-------------------- Mousey >my weekend= 578km, $75 in petrol, 2 dogs, 1 ghost, 0 ticks, 3 tins of tuna, several >big puddles, and a shitload of fun... Whatza 'ghost' ... ----------------------
mousey 27-Nov-2005 8:15:10 PM	>thanx for getting my gf 'pre-heated' no worries mate, next time ill try not to overcook her and burn ya meal.... > canya send me a copy of that photo you took of me sh#tting in that bumbly's climbing-helmut .. haha yeh that wsa a good one eh hexy,...so where am i snding them?
The HEX 27-Nov-2005 8:19:31 PM	Jack is back in his box , now :P
mousey 27-Nov-2005 8:39:38 PM	:D
The HEX 27-Nov-2005 11:47:23 PM	---------------------- Alrobbo >RAD times...drive back, stop at georges for fish and chips in ararat. listen to sarah >blasko and spiderbait... ... and feel much dissonance[ ask Sabu] , and body reverberates with ambivalence , because my first 27 woulda been sooooo much funkier , had I placed the 'draws on lead, not dog ... whats that about Mt Everest being only 6000 metres high when ya using bottled-oxy ... Slap Dancer, Alrob, Slap Dancer ... -----------------------------
mousey 28-Nov-2005 12:00:33 AM	isnt there a route somewhere called 'get a black dog up ya?' you should try that one hexy
alrob 28-Nov-2005 7:27:44 PM	On 27/11/2005 The HEX wrote: >---------------------- > >Slap Dancer, Alrob, Slap Dancer ... > >----------------------------- > > someday, hexy, someday ...

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