General Climbing Discussion

Author	Havachatwithhexy...
The HEX 28-Oct-2005 11:42:48 AM	------------------- manacubus Online Now 28/10/2005 11:34:55 AM >Neil, I request your Ozy approach-shoe-free-climbing story... Not just now, Cube-rz ... a bizz-arr-love-triangle-scenario is taking centre-stage;-) ----------------------------------
The HEX 28-Oct-2005 11:57:53 AM	This one captures the essence a bit better ... but nice ta see all this on-line therapy has you laughing about it ,now, El Neilio... :-)) .............. Topic Date User Scariest climbing moments Thursday, 12 August 2004 , nmonteith '...Aiding pitch 5 or 6 of Ozymandias on the north wall of Buffalo and i decided to switch from aid to free mode to try and speed up the process. I was wearing runners not climbing shoes. I laybacked up some sort of expando flake and managed to kick out the wire I had placed at my feet. The previous bit of gear was a good 7m below that and suddenly i relaized that my Nike's don't grip onto granite like 5.10 rubber does! The feeling of being in a tenous layback move five pitches up Ozy in runners facing a 15m+ fall was totally freaky. I started sketching and shaking and seeing no gear nearby I managed to downclimb and whittle a replacment wire in using my feet and slump back onto my daisy chains. I promptly decided I wasn't going to try and free any more of this route and stayed in my aiders for the rest of the day...' -----------------------------------
The HEX 28-Oct-2005 12:13:42 PM	----------------------- nmonteith 28/10/2005 >On 23/10/2005 Sabu wrote: >>55kg !!! >>About 6ft >Your BMI: 17 >Below 18.5 = You are very underweight and possibly malnourished. >http://www.betterhealth.vic.gov.au Yes indeedy ... weight & height formulaz are VERY important ... Nguyen executioner revealed From: By Alan Shadrake October 28, 2005 '...Smiling executioner...Singapore's chief hangman Darshan Singh The hangman who will execute Australian drug trafficker Van Tuong Nguyen in Singapore has been revealed as a semi-retired 73-year-old grandfather. In a matter of weeks, Darshan Singh will place a rope around the 25-year-old's neck and say the words he has spoken to more than 850 condemned prisoners during his 46 years as Singapore's chief executioner. "I am going to send you to a better place than this. God bless you." Nguyen's hopes of escaping the gallows receded further yesterday when the Singaporean Government confirmed that it would not make an exception for the Australian. Mr Singh has officially retired from the prison service but is called upon to carry out executions, for which he receives a fee of $S400 ($312). The Australian can reveal today that the 73-year-old grandfather, who lives in a modest, government-owned apartment near the border with Malaysia, has been asked to execute Nguyen unless the Singapore Government gives an unprecedented last-minute reprieve. Mr Singh told The Australian yesterday that under the Official Secrets Act he was forbidden from speaking about his work. A colleague and close friend, who spoke on the condition of anonymity, told The Australian that Mr Singh wanted to give up his hangman's responsibilities and live quietly in retirement but the authorities were having trouble finding anyone to replace him. "He tried to train two would-be hangmen to replace him, a Malaysian and a Chinese, both in the prison service," the colleague said. "But when it came to pulling the lever for the real thing, they both froze and could not do it. "The Chinese guy, a prison officer, became so distraught he walked out immediately and resigned from the prison service altogether." Nguyen will meet Mr Singh a few days before he is executed and will be asked if he would like to donate his organs. On the day before his execution, Mr Singh will lead him to a set of scales close to his death-row cell to weigh him. * Mr Singh will use the Official Table of Drops, published by the British Home Office in 1913, to calculate the correct length of rope for the hanging.* On the day of Nguyen's execution, Mr Singh will be picked up by a government vehicle and driven to the prison, arriving at 2am local time (0400 AEST) to prepare the gallows. Shortly before 6am, he will handcuff Nguyen's hands behind his back and lead him on his final short walk to the gallows, just a few metres from the cell. Mr Singh joined the British colonial prison service in the mid-1950s after arriving from Malaysia. When the long-established British hangman Mr Seymour retired, Singh, then 27, volunteered for the job. He was attracted by the bonus payment for executions. Mr Singh is credited with being the only executioner in the world to single-handedly hang 18 men in one day -- three at a time. They had been convicted of murdering four prison officers during a riot on the penal island of Pulau Senang in 1963. He also hanged seven condemned men within 90 minutes a few years later. They had been convicted in what became known as the "gold bars murders", in which a merchant and two employees were killed during a robbery. One of the most controversial executions in his career was the 1991 hanging of a young Filipina maid, Flor Contemplacion, who was convicted of the murder of a co-worker, Delia Maga, and her four-year-old son, on what many believed was shaky evidence. He carries out the executions wearing simple casual clothes, often just a T-shirt, shorts, sports shoes and knee-length socks. To mark his 500th hanging four years ago, four of his former colleagues turned up at his home to celebrate the event with a couple of bottles of Chivas Regal. Mr Singh boasts that he has never botched an execution. "Mr Seymour taught him just how long the drop should be according to weight and height and exactly where the knot should be placed at the back of the neck," his colleague said. "Death has always come instantaneously and painlessly. In that split second, at precisely 6am, it's all over." :O -------------------
Onsight 28-Oct-2005 12:20:10 PM	That's "lovely" Hex, now where were we... On 28/10/2005 The HEX wrote: >" yeah ...' Hahaha. LOL.' ... to you too , Simey#1!!! ...................but >seriously ,mate ... when are ya gunna realise that this is really all about >me having a crush on... " *blush* Yes, well .... or maybe Simey is having trouble getting over having his finest hour onsighted by her. ............. cough ......... ............... giggle ..........
The HEX 28-Oct-2005 12:40:48 PM	------------------------- ----------------------- cherylann 28/10/2005 >I just completed my first El Cap route in Yosemite. It went great, except I left 3 RP >rivet hangers at an anchor. . . My partner was less than pleased. He informs me they >are virtually impossible to find in the US, are possibly no longer made and all other >brands cannot compare. I am trying to track down some replacements. I would like to >purchase at least 10. The best lead I've found is an old discussion on this forum from >2004. "Trent" seems to have the info I'm looking for but I don't see an email address to >contact him directly. Does anyone know who / where I can find info on purchasing >these RP rivet hangers? Thanks in advance for any help. http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=82754#msg82935 Hey Cube-rz ! ... Qurank getza mention ... -----------------------
The HEX 28-Oct-2005 12:51:42 PM	----------------------- >Yes, well .... or maybe Simey is having trouble getting over having his finest hour >onsighted by her. >............. cough ......... >............... giggle .......... "awwwww pleeeeze !!! ... yeah , call him again, hexy! ... awwnevamind ... CUBE-RZ !!! ... succinct quote required!, thank-you ..." >Is it still onsight if you live with the guy who popularlised the route worldwide? >(evil grin) " Hey !!! ... nevamind the evil grin ... me an Simey#1 , obviously have some ' issues' to sort-out............ on-line it would seem ..." ??????????????????????????????????????????????
The HEX 28-Oct-2005 12:58:30 PM	> Sabu Online Now 28/10/2005 12:28:10 PM >hmm i seem to have become the topic!! >im 17 couple months off 18. i don't know my actual height but i am around 6ft or just >under. and yes i am between 55 and 60 kgs. I am perfectly healthy (or consider >myself to be) so i doubt im malnourished and i have been skinny all my life. >i like my power to weight ratio and have no real need/want for getting considerably >stronger!! ... >real need/want for getting considerably... ... more fashion conscious;-) ------------------------------------------
The HEX 28-Oct-2005 1:03:32 PM	-------------------------------- >Weather shoudl be perect in November... ...typed Neil with near-frozen-fingers... ---------------------------------
The HEX 28-Oct-2005 1:25:00 PM	------------------------------------------------ On 28/10/2005 Onsight wrote: >her... Hereza nutha one 4 the girls ... >10/27/05 - Steph Davis has become the first woman to free El Cap's Salathe Wall (VI >5.13b/c)... -------------------------------------------------
The HEX 28-Oct-2005 6:30:40 PM	----------------------- > Nick Kaz >HAHA Jiminy thats gold! I'm shure hex will love that graphic! ...We can spare a byte for the tape-worm over here... that defiantly makes it a thread-worm, now:P ...looks like itz just crawled out the rear end of an addax ... sorry 'Jim' ... Learnt some new words , too ... kilobyte megabyte gigabyte terabyte petabyte exabyte zettabyte yottabyte -----------------------------------
The HEX 28-Oct-2005 6:47:13 PM	-------------------------- Crossdresser 28/10/2005 >- is that because you already climb 30+ - given your weight+height - or is it because >you don't have the energy to do any training off a diet of 2 celery sticks?... Around the time that Mark Moorhead was climbing Cobwebs(26 hehehe) and assorted other sandbags ... ppl were amazed that he never seemed to eat much ... he would occasionally be seen munching on a celery-stick or a head of lettuce ... but that was about it ... the blur-ry myth developed that he was trying to emaciate his fellow competitors/copycat-admirers... while at the same time sneaking-off to his tent to pig-out on all sorts of high-energy-goodies ... ------------------------------------------
The HEX 28-Oct-2005 6:57:21 PM	On 28/10/2005 manacubus wrote: >Damn I should have just asked HEX, the part human, part robot climbing-related >search engine. Howbizarre ... On 28/10/2005 manacubus wrote: >Damn I should have just asked HEX, the part human, part robot climbing-related >search engine. On 28/10/2005 manacubus wrote: >Damn I should have just asked HEX, the part human, part rob...ot climbing-related >search eng...ine. the a href="http:www.chockstone.org/Forum/Forum.asp >ction=Display&ForumID=1&Message=29419">part human, part robot climbing-related >search enginea>. ------------------------------------------------------------------- On 28/10/2005 manacubus wrote: >Damn I should have just asked HEX, the part human, part robot climbing-related >search engine trying to work out how Cube-rz does this !!!. ------------------------------------------------------------------- On 28/10/2005 manacubus wrote: >Damn I should have just asked HEX, the The HEX. --------------------------------------------------------- On 28/10/2005 manacubus wrote: >Damn I should have just asked HEXfor some luv ....
The HEX 29-Oct-2005 6:31:06 PM	--------------------------- * doing the JCP * ... " Hi JCP on-line now !!! " --------------------------- '...Schneider, Leary Send Freerider Sean Leary and Steve Schneider made a free-ascent of Freerider (VI 5.12d) on El Capitan over three days in early October. The two swapped leads up to Sous le Toit ledge, and then Leary led the remaining 5.12 pitches. The second followed each pitch free. Leary fell only once on the route, while leading the 5.12+ Huber variation below the Block, and then redpointed the pitch on his next try. Schneider took falls on the three 5.12 pitches on the final day but returned to the belay each time to free the pitch, including reversing the 5.12 traverse where the Freerider variation leaves the Salathé Wall. Leary had worked on Freerider before, including a near one-day ascent last year, but Schneider had never done the variation. This was Leary’s first El Cap free route and the third for Schneider, which adds him to a very select club: Only Tommy Caldwell, Yuji Hirayama and the Huber brothers have also done three or more Grade VI El Cap free routes. In addition to Freerider, Schneider has freed El Niño and Golden Gate, and also pioneered the majority of the free-climbing on Lurking Fear, the West Buttress and Excalibur...' The thingz ya gotta do, to be in da club these dayz ... --------------------------
The HEX 29-Oct-2005 6:33:22 PM	---------------------- cherylann 28/10/2005 10:39:18 PM >Thanks everyone, for the great information - and so fast!! You guys are awesome... No.therejustbored:P ----------------------
The HEX 29-Oct-2005 6:45:10 PM	-------------------- Kerrotorre >We really don't need body police! I don't make comments about people's body size >because it's what's inside that counts and I have taught my child not to use the >term 'fat' to describe people... Well, that makes you a body police- ... um...*struggling thru the politically-correct-barbed-wire*... -person, does it not ... >it's what's inside that counts... " ... well if you think that offal is important, then yeah, 'it's what's inside that counts '..." Claudia Shiffer.......... when being harrassed by bland, aging, female journalists ... ----------------------------
The HEX 29-Oct-2005 7:16:25 PM	>--------------------------- >* doing the JCP * ... " Hi JCP on-line now !!! " >--------------------------- " ...are you... AREYOUTALKIN'TOME,HEX?? ... yeah,urtalkin'tome ... " ----------------------------------
The HEX 29-Oct-2005 8:13:42 PM	------------------------------- Pant loader Author Message superbum Adrenaline Junkie Location: Bishop, CA! 385 posts added since 18 Sep 2002 Offline Posted: Sun Oct 02, 2005 1:23 am >So, I've been living on the road for about three years now, working seasonally at a >summer camp in Idaho on a ropes course, and climbing all over the west during the >rest of the year. I Love this life and have been blessed to be able to climb and live in >so many cool areas. >But the time has come (I think...) to settle a bit. I have picked Bishop, CA (for reasons >expressed in other threads...) as my new home for the time being. >So, here I am, used to climbing when I want and as much as I want. Now, I have to >get used to a full time job, just to pay for food, rent and car Insurance. >So...to all you dirtbags turned domestic, HOW DID YOU COPE? Has your skill taken >a dive? Can you still take long road trips? What job did you get? I am moving in a >week to get a place and a job and I am a bit sketched, like I'm going to the doctor to >get a kidney removed or something... Hmmmmmm ... ' I can relate to that ... ' ... thinks those who have sat around an Arapiles campfire , late at night ... mesmerized by the flickering, colourful flames .......with the Bluffs glazed in soft moon-light ......... the distant snapping of carabiners, as someoneinatent prepares for their mission-ascent first thing in the morning ................... the quiet, rural-road leading to Nati .....Horsham .........Melb ...no...NO!!!.... stop...... the flickering, colourful flames ... ...aaaahhhhhhhh ... --------------------------------------
The HEX 29-Oct-2005 8:22:03 PM	------------------------------- Author Ever wanted to go to World Cup? Hide Topic climbingjac 29/10/2005 >It didn't take long for the wall to spit people off. Gulp. When girl # 3 was on the wall, I >was seated on a chair behind the wall where I tied in. My belayer and spotter were >there. They did some polite nodding... ok, no English then. No problem. The >commentator said my name, "Australie" and a bunch of other words I didn't >understand. Very intimidating. I sat there with my hands behind my back in my >chalkbag and breathed slowly. I could see the shadow of girl # 3 being lowered to the >ground. Looks like she got a few clips up, which is encouraging, or intimidating as the >case may be. Then my belayer raised his eyebrows and nodded at me and it was time >to go. I started shaking....' ...but suddenly my brain registered that old mantra... >Luv HEX:-)) ... and my whole body/mind'n'soul just went "WOOHOOOO !!!" ... nothing could stop me now ... >Stay tuned for the next exciting chapter which will be posted in 5 or 6 hours...
mousey 29-Oct-2005 9:14:27 PM	hexybaby#2 you gotta be someone i know, you know way too much about me dude, 'carm-on...who are ya??
Sabu 29-Oct-2005 10:10:33 PM	ahahahahahahah, look reeeeeaaaal hard out ur window at the gumtree 50m away from ur house......yesss thats right theres someone sitting in that tree......yesss thats right....thats "THE HEX" ba-ba-baaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa!!

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