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7-Oct-2005 3:35:00 PM
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Bob Saki
Online Now
7/10/2005
3:20:47 PM
>On 7/10/2005 BadBrad Of The Isles wrote:
>>Having a total stranger belay you is like wacking off left handed - it
>>just doesnt feel right.
>some would say the left hand is like a new woman!!!! untrained yet eager!
And slightly epileptic ....................................or so I'm told:P
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7-Oct-2005 3:48:21 PM
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Kerrotorre
7/10/2005
>But these are issues that bother me as person new to climbing and interested in doing >more so thanks for bringing it up. I don't think there's any simple solution though...
Use the search-function, grass-hopper --- there is much for you to munch on ...
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7-Oct-2005 3:55:26 PM
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Rosie
7/10/2005
>I reckon you'd be hard-pressed to find a complete loony-tune psycho murderer who >would scout through a local climbing forum to find their next victim...
*Hmmmm...rubs chin thoughtfully...*... I dunno,babe --- 'Piggy' came close...
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7-Oct-2005 4:06:56 PM
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kerrotorre
Online Now
7/10/2005
3:52:50 PM
>Yes nmonteith. And I heard Mr Milat liked rock climbing!!!!!!!!
>just kidding but it's reasonable to assume that he was into some kind of sport and had >friends who thought he was a lovely man.
>And there you go again.......you're so trusting!!!!!!!!!!! You trust the gym gear, the gym >owners..............now all the climbers...........!
Don't you worry about Neilo , Kerro --- he carryz a can of Mace in his chalk-bag ...
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7-Oct-2005 4:16:57 PM
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tdn
7/10/2005
>The point of my post is whether they are a safe belayer or not. In pure climbng terms >I'd rather have a "complete loony-tune psycho murderer" who belays properly than one >of a "nice bunch of people" who were useless and might drop me.
AaaaHaHaHaHAAAAAAAAAAAAA !!!
So how does Simon Yates fit into all this ...
:D
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7-Oct-2005 4:29:57 PM
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Kerrotorre
7/10/2005
>yes there's aren't a lot of psycho murderers around but there are other dangers apart >from being murdered by a psycopath and why wouldn't weirdos scout through a >climbing forum when there's such trusting young people around who are willing to >meet them at the end of a dirt road???
>>Maybe RSVP would be a better place to do that.
>Maybe but it's the same thing in reality.
>
" The same thing in reality,eh , Kerro ... have you been a naughty boy, at the end of some dirt track ?...hmmmm?...is there something ur REALLY trying to tell us ?... I'm aaaaaallllll eeeeeaaaaarrrrrssssss..."
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7-Oct-2005 4:37:01 PM
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DaCrux
7/10/2005
>Maybe you should live in a bubble?
But then you'd suffercate...
hehehe !
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7-Oct-2005 4:55:35 PM
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On 19/01/2005 manacubus wrote:
>"Hexy when I say you gone git yo-self off-a dat damn 'puter, you best do
>it bwaa !!! "
Yeah,yeah,alright,imoutahereBUMP!!!**********************************************
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>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Hexy makes a boozy-Friday-night-infa-red-blue-tooth-connection to CS...
<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<
On 19/12/2003 nmonteith wrote:
>Is this the line??? (in red)
YEP
>
M9iswhereitsat ... 9 as in nein ... because you will never do the route ...hehehe...
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7-Oct-2005 6:52:11 PM
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Never say never in the game we call climbing TH meol'troll, as the young ones (& some older ones with determination), are apt to prove what some take for granted as wrong ...
Thanxforthagraphicsretrodredgeupofnm's ...
:~)
Following on in The Hexs encouragement …
CONGRATULATIONS JCP; ON JOINING THE 1000 POSTS CLUB*.
>1002 posts. Started 54 new topics, 948 replies. 0 Media Reviews
(*6 now).
Nmonteith 3329
(A5)/M8/M9iswhereitsat 1693
Dalai 1416
The Hex (& et al id/s) 1259 ('hex' 13 posts; Hex-TROLL ' 177 posts; 'HEX' 999 posts; ‘The Hex’ 70 posts & still going) …
Rich 1231
JCP 1002
Jiminy cricket
>so whattayareckon M8, faux-Hex better than no Hex?
Steph
>I'm awaiting M8's verdict. Where is he anyway???
I heard the old bugger has gone, or changed his name or something ...
http://www.chockstone.org/Forum/Forum.asp?Action=Display&ForumID=1&MessageID=28189
The Hex said M8 is
>Sulking.
,,, Hardly ! Just moving on (a little) with the times after being inspired by various recent events of TH make-over and new Buff Guide rumour.
>Addax --- make sure you THINK before you go taking cheap-shotz at ya mate The HEX
?
Conditional luv again??
... or just aggressive affection ???
The Hex 06/10/05
>... a certain two-way-cyber-retro-flirty-thing happened ...
Richard 07/07/04
>Do you think its strange how its possible to have a discussion within a posting, rather than postings within a discussion?
The Hex replies …
>---------------------------------
>I rekcon it's pretty funky,dude ! --- me & A5 did quite a bit not long ago --- we have to be careful >tho --- it can gain a bit of 'an affair ' vibe --- ya know wha' I mean ?...smoochy,smoochy... >snigger !
>-------------------------------
Richard
>The funny thing is. from the outside, no-one knows there are posts which are getting updated. >That does make it feel sneaky / private. >Sometimes I haven't been sure if you have realy been having a go at A5, or just making a bit of a joke. >It's not hard to get some people off side !!
More retrogold …
VCC New Routes Page Updates Thursday, 29 July 2004 At 2:42:48 PM A5iswhereitsat wrote:
>Welcome Richard Arrowhead to the 7/7 retroclub. >It will test your onsight memory as several concurrent sessions can run simultaneously and replies can be all over the shop. >Post checking (pun intended) becomes de rigour ...
>The 2 timing bitch in the red dress is to be watched though. >Both you and I have lost out to manacubus lately ...
>>H-T having a go @ me?
>I dont care/mind. >(Am old enough to cope!)
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nmonteith 29-07-04
>what the? i don't understand this post at all!
nmonteith 30-04-04
>Many people agree with your sentiments - the SVC forum is not a sport climbers chat room.
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7-Oct-2005 7:06:46 PM
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On 6/10/2005 The HEX wrote:
>Dear lurking Eddy Frillypants... I can feel ur looping-orbit doing the
>occasional Chockstone-fly-by ..............*deepspace ambient vibes begin
>to register*.............
>>SHUT IT hexy !!!
>Arrrrrr--- there you are Nick ... I MEAN !!! ... Eddy ..................
>I found this for you ... the global-new-wave seem to be tuning into the
>Messneristic philosophyz that you crave for so much.............Don't be
>too harsh on Simey#1 --- he has atoned for his moment of depraved-drill-bit-inspiration,
>by contributing to Gerryz-Tassy-Road-Trip extravaganza, which will leed
>many a neo-grasshopper to the semi-puritan influence of the great Robert
>McMahon ...
>
>........................................
>Re: New 5.13a Free Route on the Yosemite Falls Wall Sep 16, 2005, 01:28pm
>PST
>Author:
>Minerals
>
>Social climber
>From: The Deli
>>Great jobs, guys! And thanks for not drilling on any of the routes up
>there! It’s nice to >see an example of good style and respect for existing
>routes in this day and age. I >can’t believe that my fixed heads from 6
>years ago held whippers! Damn! Free >climbing with old fixed heads for
>pro? Now that’s proud!
>..................................
>
>Yes indeed ,Eddy ! ... Proud as an early-morning throbba!!!
>:D
>
>You know what, mate ? --- I reckon the best, newest, mostest-futuristicists
>thing that could happen with Australian climbing right now , would be the
>fantastic/spectacula freeing of HBz Copperhead Road ... and I'm even happy
>to let a yank do it for 'us' ... *Eddyz orbit takes him behind Europa and
>transmission fades out ...*
>
Yes indeed for adventure climbing.
And indeed also, that Edward frillyparts (thanx mikl) still exists as '.' in the user profiles, ...
... he even read a PM that I sent to '.' not long back to confirm it.
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Momentus NEWS ...
I heard on the grapevine that Copperhead Road is graded M9 in the new Buffalo Guide.
If this is the case it is excellent news indeed, as it shows that the Ewbank open-ended grading system works well, ,,, this especially overdue for aid climbs in order to stop them becoming compressed in the top end.
As a mark of RESPECT and admiration for the route; Malcolm Matheson (HB), its 1st ascentionist (solo); and Kevin Lindorf for putting it out there (ie M9) in the new guide; I am now going to change my user ID to M9iswhereitsat (from M8iswhereitsat), so as to reflect this logical (& common sensical), step forward.
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7-Oct-2005 7:17:16 PM
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i thought it was a bit soft for M9...i mean i might not be the best person to ask since i onsight solo freed it, so i only got a quick look at the placements as i zoomed past
is there any m9's in existence in aus?
i remember at last years NYE party at Elmars there was some crazy bearded dinosaur who was raving to me about this crazy thing he did at malatia point...as i was trying to cut myself a bit off the french bread stick he couldnt shutup about it! :P 25 moves on beaks in sand with no leave behind gear was supposed to be the crux, he trid to tell me m10...is there such a hting?ahhh whocares im having dinner...BYE!
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7-Oct-2005 7:36:57 PM
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On 7/10/2005 JCP wrote:
>is there any m9's in existence in aus?
I am told that Copperhead Road is graded M9 in the new Buffalo Guide.
>he trid to tell me m10...is there such a hting?
Probably, ... but not written up yet.
It is an OPEN-ended scale, so theoretically there is no limit.
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7-Oct-2005 10:37:33 PM
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hmmm...say M8, where were you on NYE?
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8-Oct-2005 8:54:18 AM
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On 7/10/2005 cheeky young JCP wrote:
>hmmm...say M8, where were you on NYE?
Part way up soloing Lord Gumtree at Buffalo.
... & as you can now discern, ... definitely not a party animal.
>he couldnt shutup about it!
Anyone who has done M10 should be forgiven their inability to shut up about it.
To be worthy of that grade it would be way out there scary, ... and have lasting residual effects ... To survive & tell the tale would be a worthy achievement.
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Interesting how the stats jumped upon Hexs return; was running on about 350 posts per week but jumped to 500-ish ...
The Hex is obviously good for business ...
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8-Oct-2005 12:32:27 PM
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Hello RatMan on-line now...hehehe:D
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8-Oct-2005 12:43:52 PM
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PreferKnitting
8/10/2005
>Kerro: I've started knitting a long sleeve for you jumper.. but alas, I forgot to ask you what >colour it should be!
" Make it red so no-one gets suspicious when he wanders back to the road-head ... Mwuhahahahaaaaaaaa..."
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8-Oct-2005 12:56:01 PM
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>
Topic Date User
Copperhead Road (A4+) repeated Wednesday, 17 December 2003 At 10:54:23 AM nmonteith
'...Gareth Llewellin (QLD) and Shaggy (USA) repeated Malcolm Matheson's testpiece aid route, Copperhead Road (A4) on Mt Buffalo's North Wall last week. The crux pitch is 50m+ of very dicy hook and bad copperhead (mashie) placements with only a few bits of good gear along the way. Gareth described being six sky hooks out from a string of mashies and having to trust very small and insecure mashies in an overhang to continue. This is a very bold ascent with possible 30m+ fall potenital most of the way up the climb. The route is considered one of the hardest and most dangeorus in the country. Gareth and Shaggy are very experianced aid climbers with numerous hard first ascents in Australia and overseas...'
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On 15 March 2005 A5M8(hez been down-graded)-Troll wrote:
'...Below is a cut-n-paste of an earlier posting of mine to this forum to help out & I have already forwarded this to Kevin Lindorff for VCC to use in the new guide.
I would be extremely disappointed if the Buffalo guide was to be expressed in A grades instead of M grades, and I know of more than a few others who would feel the same way, though they don't necessarily frequent this forum.
~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~
I have been giving the Aid Grade conversions some thought and have come up with the following if anyone is interested.
USA Australian
A0 = M1
A1 = M1
A2 = M2
A2+ = M3
A3 = M4
A3+ = M5
A4 = M6
A4+ = M7
A5 = M8
A6 = M9 (theoretical)
Feedback (pro or con) welcome.
~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~
I would suggest amending the above list in the new guide by putting the Australian grade column first then the USA one !...'
...........................
Yeah,yeah, nevermindthequibblez,4legz, Neil makes no mention of the belay-pieces ripping out in the event of a fall ; therefore (thus--- to use Jacz fav word) Copperhead Road is A5 max (according to tha American definition of A6---see Beyer etal,blah,blah) ; therefore/thus...
>A5 = M8
...& therefore/thus...
...itz no more than M8,eh...awwww A?...
... I'll have to get Sabu to check the logic of all this:P
HOWEVER !!! --- my friendly-Friday-eve-jibe was intended to motivate your tse-tse-ridden-carcass up CHR --- it seems to be working ... where will u b nye this year ...
?????????????????????????????????
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8-Oct-2005 1:19:31 PM
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" Hello Kerro on-line now ... come an' havachatoverherewithhexy if ya want/dare ... The HEX really IS a nice-cyber-dude;-) ; don't be too scared of me --- I'm just The HEXz henchman ..."
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Hello JCP on-line now --- I was impressed to read ur FFA of CHR
:P
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8-Oct-2005 1:31:40 PM
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oweng
7/10/2005
>New Hex is to Hex-troll as Countdown Revolution was to Countdown...
Listen Dog-face !!! (to use the Iggy Pop expression he sprayed at Molly on a Countdown episode... can you please ask ur twin-head-mate , Jon New-mat to get that Tassy portal back on-line again... Cheers...
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8-Oct-2005 1:44:38 PM
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A5M8-Troll wrote (with one hand on the key-board & the other under the desk...)
>As a mark of RESPECT and admiration for the route...
If ur fair-dinkum, dude, then howabout throwing INTEGRITY into da mix, and go and abseil down A3 Sport Climb , and fill in the drill holes ... The Gorge will have a much better ambience ... Clouded Queen etal ? ... "Earth to Geoff Little !!!...? ..."
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