General Climbing Discussion

Author	Havachatwithhexy...
HEX 14-Jun-2005 2:12:28 PM	Hehehe ! Don't forget to take some kitty-litter with you, Steph... ;-) BUMP ! **************************************** ************************************************** ************************************************* ****************************************************
steph 14-Jun-2005 2:16:16 PM	eh eh eh nice. that could be a hygienic way of doing things come to think about it!?! for the record - i didnt just suggest that
HEX 14-Jun-2005 2:37:34 PM	***************************************** ***************************************** ***************************************** ********************BUMP ! Meanwhile, Hexy is concentrating on fixing a RURP, while top-stepping da etz, on a huge-mo'fa'-cyber-wall, when the inter-net-text-message comes thru ... >tmarsh...I think it stems from the route setters there failing to understand that the Oz >grading system is based on the overall grade of the route, not the grade of the hardest >move... AaaawwwwFFFFAAAAARRRRKKKK !!! *over-balances with shock* NNNNNN...NOOOOOOOOoooooooo !!! --- I thought this myth had been well&truly busted ??!! *Hexy topples-over-back-wards beyond the centre-of-gravity* SsssssHIT !!! *Hexy notices that the rope has fallen-away ala Mikl on BoyRacer...* AAAAAARRRRRRRGGGGGGHHHHHH !!! ... *THUMP!!!* ... UUUUUUUUGGGGGGHHHHHH !!! ... *BUMP !!!* ... ... ... *SPLAT !!!* .-{ ************************************************ ************************************************ ************************************************
HEX 14-Jun-2005 4:56:53 PM	**************************************** **************************************** **************************************** >...Something happened that has never happened to me before. It was as if I had let go >of everything around me, left my past behind me. On Separate Reality I climbed into a >different dimension... Thanx for that, Timbo --- you have brought The HEX back-from the cyber-dead ... -----------------------------
HEX 14-Jun-2005 4:59:52 PM	------------------------------- M8iswhereitsat Online Now 14/06/2005 >I find the same in aid. If you are not familiar with how 'hard' it is 'supposed' to be and >you control the head in managing to get up it, then the next grade comes more >easily... Ignoranceizbliss, grass-hopper... --------------------------------------
HEX 14-Jun-2005 5:12:30 PM	--------------------------------- cruze 14/06/2005 >Most of the climbs I do outside are not sequence specific. That is, moderately graded >climbs on "real" rock often have a million "intermediate" irregularities that people of >different shapes and sizes can use in different ways to achieve the same outcome. >There are, of course, exceptions to this and these are often descibed as "bouldery" >or "chuck a dyno to X". "Aaaaaawwwwwww this is soooooooooooooo gudd !!!" *in KylieMole voice* Beautiful theory-to-articulation, Cruze ... so true,so true ! A Chris Shepard quote, circa 1983 : " India(29) is really quite easy --- you only have a couple of holds to use and in one particular sequence ..." *I can hear Dalai loading a counter-opinion-torpedo ...* --------------------------------------
HEX 14-Jun-2005 5:41:08 PM	------------------------------------- brat 14/06/2005 >I always like the "thin edge of the wedge" argument. as though we're all incapable of >moderation. MMMmmmmmmm donuts! >Anything in the hands of an extremist or addictive personality can be trouble, luckily >climbing tends to promote slimmer physiques (with exceptions), why not assist nature >if eating half a dead cow or chook isn't your go! On 7/05/2004 Rich wrote: >On 7/05/2004 beefy wrote: >>ever seen a powerful cow?? >>everthing in moderation is the way to go. > >how bout this one.. > > Hmmmm.......'moderation' is oh-so relative ... *happily munching-away on Neilz 11th donut ...* --------------------------------
HEX 14-Jun-2005 5:53:39 PM	------------------------------------- M8 wrote : >*Moisturised baby wipes are a hygenic hand cleaning item to have after the event also. >~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ >going to do some searching and maybe edit this post. Standby ... Let Hexy give you a hand, old-fella , while ur searching-around in that awesome-Hexy-link,again;-) >Re: boater's DRY BAG as poop "toob" >Trad climber >From: Eagle River, AK >>Isn't it legal to piss off the walls? If so, just eat prunes and dried apricots and piss out >>of your ass ! AAAHHHHH !!! --- suchagreatidea !!! --- no wonder the yanks rule the world ... ---------------------------------- kieranl Online Now >I also had a friend who used the "hold on" option for days at a time on mountain trips. >If someone is using that strategy, make sure to beat them into the toilet when you >return - they will be in there for some time... Yeah...no shit ! hehehe ... butt seriously ... hehehe ... make sure you don't drive-off with-out them, cos they might in fact have a massive-bowell-constipation-blockage , not to mention toxic-shock-syndrome ala shielas who leave (ah-hem) tamponz in too long ... >they will be in there for some time... Don't let those words haunt you Kieran ... ----------------------------------- kieranl Online Now 14/06/2005 >For pee storage I believe you can use a substance that turns the pee to jelly, reducing >the risk of leakage. I just can't think where I saw that particular gem of info. Perhaps >M8 can enlighten us... NevefearTheHEXishere... >Regarding the question about small lumps of yellow jelly in the Babies nappy - a lot of >nappies appear to use a substance which absorbs a lot of liquid and in doing so turns >into a jelly like substance I suspect some of this is leaking into the inside of the nappy >a way of proving/disproving this Theory would be to try a different brand of nappy (I >have not noticed this happening with Snugglers or Huggies) or try using non >disposable Nappies >Richard Freeman ................................. >Thursday 30/4/98 I heard a lady comment on todays show about and crystal/jelly >appearing when her baby urinates. This happens to my 5 month old twins when we >use a cheaper brand disposable nappy. If they fall asleep before being able to change >them into a good nappy when we get them up in the morning the disposable is full and >a jelly/soft crystal like substance is all around thier genitals. This to me seems like >what ever substance they use to absorb the urine in them becomes over loaded and >then leeches out as a little extra something different, don't know if it is or not but you >can decide for yourself. Regards Dave >Dave Bolch Fascinating road ur putting us on, Kieran ... ------------------------------------
IdratherbeclimbingM9 14-Jun-2005 6:18:28 PM	You 'defiantly' fly quicker through cyberspace than I do Hex-Troll. Here I am searching and you already have the answers stencilled into the rice paper. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ >Meanwhile, Hexy is concentrating on fixing a RURP, while top-stepping da etz, Ahh c'mon H-T, ... you are not advocating using the cyber-hammer now are you? ... or is it only an M5/A3 sportclimb oh righteous one? :P ... Damud@dazuluwateringholeisblerriedeepagain ... ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ >Ya not wrong !! --- how did all this space get onto the post ?? Yep, seems like we are standing in it again, .... as ... ...everything ...gets ... taller ...
HEX 14-Jun-2005 6:27:03 PM	Hehehe ! ... The HEX moooooooooooooooves in ma-stear-re-ez-waaayz ! ------------------------------------- >Nowra Mansion - June 2005 >gallery pages: < 1 2 3 4 5 6 > 18 of 48 >Keep your hands and feet out - we still have three more days of climbing! Looks like a huge pod of dugongs, mating in balmy-tropical-waterz:P ------------------------------------- >... Damud@dazuluwateringholeisblerriedeepagain ... Ya not wrong !! --- how did all this space get onto the post ??
HEX 14-Jun-2005 7:00:31 PM	---------------------------------------- On 9/06/2005 steph wrote: >On 9/06/2005 Uncle Chester wrote: >>ventures (scouts for teens) , you can do what ever you want, you just >>organize it, its good fun, and you get to meet some babes....(oh yeeeaaaaah... >>chicky-babes!) > >you? babes?? no way..... you must learn not to confuse bush wombats with >women, Chester, or you're in for a nasty surprise... > And so are they !!! Steph --- I'm glad you didn't use the Aussie term 'bush pig' :P Chester --- you look like Arnie in Terminator 2... " iiiiiiii-neeeeed-a-vaaaay-caaaay-shuuuuuuun ..." --------------------------------------
HEX 14-Jun-2005 7:35:11 PM	------------------------------------- shmalec 7/06/2005 >Climbing is good. And many people think of it while they are at work all day. But I >wouldn't go choosing your career around it alone. Almost everyone spends more time >working than climbing so make sure you choose a career that is rewarding in itself. >Your climbing can easily be put to a quick end by an injury or some other thing. its >probably a good idea to keep your climbing as your own personal recreation rather >than doing it all day as a job. If you pick a career where each year you build on your >past experience then it will grow and change into something more stimulating each >year... Very,very good, Shmalec --- I like this smooth-talkin'-jive A LOT ... Good advice , not only for the Mousey, Steph, Sabu , Chester younguns , but also for the (now potentially-jaded-by-the-rat-race) GenerationXers, who are not only facing another 20-odd years to get to 'retirement', but who are also now being conditioned to accept that 'working' into their 70's & 80's , is not only a good thing because it may be the only way to pay the bills, with-out a pension ... but also because all of the political-correctness-structural-changes, instituted in the Australian culture , during the 1990's,*takes a deep breath&continues*,fascilitates the mind-set required to stay 'happy'(reasonably sane) in the general labour-market --- regardless of the proffession or time-structure ('life-style' flexibility) ... Very good advice, dude ... as long as ppl don't confuse 'stimulating' with novelty ... Cheers,HEX... -----------------------------
HEX 14-Jun-2005 7:51:50 PM	--------------------------------------- >THE AUSTRALIAN RE, RETRO-BOLTING OPEN FORUM Thursday, 8 April 2004 At >5:45:15 PM A5iswhereitsat >>Hex I am IMPRESSED. >>You do indeed move in mysterious ways. > " BYE4NOW !!! " Luv y'all, HEX:-)) ---------------------------------------------
HEX 16-Jun-2005 2:45:40 PM	-------------------------------- >nmonteith 2879 Havachatwithhexy 1377 Hehehe ... can someone clean that splatted-addax off the 'tracks , pleaze ! ... Watch-out Neilo --- that lightattheendofdatunnel, you can see, might be the distant summer of 2005/6 , or it might just be the Havachatwithhexy Frieght-train !!! ############################## toot ! ........ TOOOOOOOOOOOOOT !!!! >M8iswhereitsat 1373 YagettinlazywithyadailyquotaA8M5... :P -----------------------------
IdratherbeclimbingM9 16-Jun-2005 3:09:56 PM	Ohmysteriousone. Your cauldron is out of kilter. >Havachatwithhexy 1377 Is the number of replies to your column, which handsomely exceeds all others ... #posts however; HEX 974 hex-TROLL 177 hex-_TROLL 13 ------ = 1164 >M8iswhereitsat 1373 >YagettinlazywithyadailyquotaA8M5... Yatryingtocyberwindmeuporwhat? The daily quota ends up being what it is ... & so does the arithmatic! You will no doubt surpass this glasshopper fairly easily in the end, as I am enjoying slowing down to enjoy the moments as I get older .... ~"Winning isn't everything, but losing isn't anything"~ said Charlie Brown. (... besides nmonteith won long ago).
HEX 16-Jun-2005 6:26:34 PM	On 16/06/2005 M8iswhereitsat wrote: >Yatryingtocyberwindmeuporwhat? YEP !! :-)) ----------------------------------------
HEX 16-Jun-2005 6:27:26 PM	-------------------------------- mic 16/06/2005 >What does a grade 5.11d relate to in Aus grading? Stuck in UK >On 16/06/2005 mic wrote: >>What does a grade 5.11d relate to in Aus grading? >About 24. Louise: >...I'd flashed Separate Reality, it's not really 26 it's more like 24. Tales Of Power is more >like 26/27. I had one fall on Tales of Power, and didn't have any falls on Separate >Reality, I did it ground up placing all the pro on lead, but I had heard 4 years later >something about a German women called Andrea (I can't remember her second >name), claimed the first female ascents of these climbs, and I was like "hang on a sec >I did them back in 1980, what's going on?"...' Zak : >...some 200 meters above the river, horizontal, and we couldn’t do a single move. It >was like entering into a completely different world. Of course, other hard lines such as >Midnight Lightening had been climbed, in those days without crash pads, but although >we couldn’t climb this problem at least... Ha ! --- I wonder if Zak placed his crash-mat, 200 meters below SR :D -----------------------------------
HEX 16-Jun-2005 6:44:00 PM	-------------------------- JCP Online Now >whats wrong with chopping bolts?? Nothing ! --- if itz done properly ... --------------------------
HEX 16-Jun-2005 6:51:03 PM	On 14/06/2005 HEX wrote: >A Chris Shepard quote, circa 1983 : >" India(29) is really quite easy --- you only have a couple of holds to >use and in one particular sequence ..." >*I can hear Dalai loading a counter-opinion-torpedo ...* dalai 16/06/2005 >Quite a few of Arapiles harder routes for example tend to have bouldery cruxes and >good sections of climbing at a grade a fair bit easier (ie. India has a really nice lower >section at about 24-25, the couple move crux and more enjoyable and easier climbing >above. Just one better hold in the middle would produce a superb grade 26, rather than >the grade 28 it is) >PS I am not suggesting anyone go out and chip India, just using it as an example. Don' you toucha da India !! or Kimbo will rip intoya !!! ------------------------------------------
HEX 16-Jun-2005 7:00:02 PM	---------------------------------- dalai 16/06/2005 >I am talking about having climbs which are consistent for the grade. I have found these >style of routes more flowing and hence enjoyable rather a stroll with a couple of moves >totally out of character with the rest... ........................... Time to re-visit this gem, & sex-up the arguement a tad... simey 4/03/2005 >Yeah, it is a pity when one move is really out of keeping with a quality 5-pitch climb. I >would consider the creation of a hold on The Navigator to be less of a crime than the >chipped holds on Punks in the Gym, London Calling and Hit the Deck, but it would be >very difficult to achieve without it looking ugly. >You won't see me doing it. HEX 4/03/2005 '...Itz not about '...crime...' , sime --- itz about time --- the times in which climbing is now context-ed... The state and federal governments have a ' museum ' attitude to wilderness areas in tasmania --- this means that as long as there are large , comprehensively-represented&protected areas of bio/geo conservation, then it is ok to ' sacrifice ' excessive ' representations for the' good' of the broader community... The same applies with climbing --- there ARE massive numbers of climbs, representing all-styles&aspects of the climbing-culture, already firmly 'protected' by the various scenes , locals & ' common sense ' ... the 'time' in which we now find our-selves is inceasingly demanding a certain smoothness-in-continuity-of-experience from the suburban front-door ---> along smooth-well-maintained roads---> to the easy walk-in ---> to 'the bit we came all this way for' ---> and safely-smoothly home-again ... The neo-challenge these-days is to be able to dream-up the ideal climbing-trip & then execute it as smoothly as it is experienced when it drifts sexily around the mind while still in suburia ... the post-modern world is choked with political-correctness and presentz daily ' challenges' at every moment ... more than enough challenges to satisfy those who just want to pour-down the perfect milk-shake&savour the perfect Horsham-Oven-Door danish-pastry of-a-climb... ultimately we are talking about saturation-beta --- nothing left to experience but the ideal experience itzself ...no single grass-seed in the sock that ' spoiled ' that perfect bush-walk ; no single mosquito-bite that 'distracted' from that perfect sunset ; no single move '...out of keeping with a quality 5-pitch climb...' AAAAhhhhhhhhhh !!! --- these ugg-bootz feel SSSOOOOOoooo GOOOooood ....' nmonteith 4/03/2005 >legendary post mr hexy! 10/10 Thanx mate:-)) --------------------------------------------

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