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11-May-2005 2:45:36 PM
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******************************************BUMP ! I'm baaa-aaaaack ...
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Ronny
11/05/2005
>Surely 'onsight' is a word which has no meaning other than the extent of beta >known about the route. The three options pretty much being no knowledge >("onsight"), second hand knowledge ("flash") or first hand knowledge >("redpoint")
Open your mind to intuitive-cosmic-universal-knowledge, grass-hopper --- your left-hemisphere is limiting your climbing performance ...
>how far do we take the elevtion of the word "onsight" to mean more than a >single word can? its pointless to do this. "onsight" relates to beta - and only >beta. if you want to know more, say more.
>James
Me thinx you actually mean to say '...if you want to know more, ASK more ...'
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beefy
11/05/2005
>dont argue with him - he's a lawyer ...
Lawyer shmawer ... Johnny Howard's a lawyer by trade 'in 'e ? ...
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11-May-2005 6:42:20 PM
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Iser
11/05/2005
>I'm also thinking of a trip to the Blueys. I hear, however, that it's tuff to hook up with >climbers, as there's no pines-like area, and lots of Sydneysiders just go for >daytrips, seeing as its close to home. Is this accurate?
>If I go, it'll most likely be partnerless, and in June/July. Any advice?
Sod the Blueyz in June/July, Batman --- head to pristine Frog Buttress ! ... you will be able to climb real rock all day & then fly with the fruit-batz all night ...
The cracks are pretty smooth, but take lots of tape to minimise broken skin if you are climbing with strangerz ...
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12-May-2005 9:08:21 AM
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Frog is just coming into season now. The weather is cooling down perfectly. Grant and Duncan will be hopping on Pokomo And The Girls In The Valley. They`ve just ticked The Lords Prayer and Brown Corduroy Trousers. The good thing is I`ve got it all on tape and lotsa digy stills. Those guys are tearing up the cliff.
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12-May-2005 2:33:18 PM
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Well howbout posting just one super-classic-Froggy-inspirational-piccy-still here Philby ...
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nmonteith
12/05/2005
>The mod squad won't be censoring peoples opinions. There is plenty of >rumours on this website already...
Hooraaaaayyyyy !!!
Onsight
12/05/2005
>Agreed. That's a crap thing to suggest Tel...
Not really ... itz opened-up & generated good discourse ... Telby is suggesting, not accusing ...
...................................
Piccy of Neilo on War of Aggression :
I seeya Neilo ! ...
Shakin' that asssssssss !!!
Shakin' that asssssssss !!!
Shakin' that asssssssss !!!
DON'T TOUCH ME HEXY !!!
Luv HEX & somefunkydudeiveforgottenthenameof ...
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12-May-2005 4:52:26 PM
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Happy to oblige there hexy me old China.
Duncan Steel on Barb Wire Canoe 25
Ceck out the larger version here
Duncan bridging at the start of the crux on Brown Corduroy Trousers 28
To view the larger version go here
Duncan bridging once again on The Lords Prayer 27
Once again the original can be viewed here
All of the above are Frog classics and they were all done on small wires mostly, no bolts on these hard men climbs.
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12-May-2005 10:32:49 PM
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does the Prayer still have manky pins?? (frosty popped one a few years ago).
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13-May-2005 7:30:33 AM
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Nope no pins on the Prayer. The crux is protected by way of three number two RPs in an equalised nest all clipped to one carabiner on a quickdraw, it is a thing of beauty.
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13-May-2005 8:45:23 AM
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On 13/05/2005 Phil Box wrote:
>Nope no pins on the Prayer. The crux is protected by way of three number
>two RPs in an equalised nest all clipped to one carabiner on a quickdraw,
>it is a thing of beauty.
... So where is the photo of it then Phil? :)
I'd hang it up on the shed wall (with my other climbing piccies) if you posted it !
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13-May-2005 12:11:20 PM
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I`ve only got a short piece of video showing it. Next time I`ll take a close up pic of that nest of RPs.
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14-May-2005 12:21:18 PM
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^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
COOOOOOOOOOOOOOOL
vvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvv
Thanx Philby:-))
Luv HEXYBABY:-))
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14-May-2005 12:39:19 PM
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'...Ed Viesturs has completed his 16-year quest to be the first American to climb all 14 of the world’s 8,000-meter peaks. Viesturs summited 26,545-foot Annapurna, the world’s 10th-highest peak, via the North Face, the route followed by the French when they made the first ascent in 1950.
Viesturs climbed his first 8,000-meter peak, Kangchenjunga, in 1989, three years after Reinhold Messner became the first man to climb all 14. Altogether, Viesturs has reached more than 20 8,000-meter summits (including six trips up Mount Everest), but Annapurna, statistically among the most dangerous of the Himalayan giants, had eluded him on two previous expeditions, in 2000 and 2002.
This season, Viesturs and his long-time climbing partner, Veikka Gustafsson from Finland, once again adopted the approach favored by many elite peak baggers. They warmed up in April on Cho Oyu, where Gustafsson reached the 26,750-foot summit but Viesturs turned back to assist photographer Jimmy Chin, who was stricken with altitude sickness. (Viesturs had already climbed Cho Oyu twice, the first time in 1994.) Viesturs and Gustafasson rested briefly in Kathmandu and then helicoptered to Annapurna basecamp. Fully acclimatized by their time on Cho Oyu, the two climbed to Camp 3 on Annapurna just a week after arriving at the base. High winds pinned them there, at around 23,000 feet, for three long nights, but finally a break in the worst wind allowed them to plod to the top along with several Italian climbers, who had earlier prepared much of the route.
Viesturs is often faulted by elite alpinists for choosing the easiest routes on 8,000-meter peaks and for not advancing climbing style. The 45-year-old from Seattle, who is married with three children, has steadfastly stuck to his mantra that, “Getting up is optional; getting down is not.” Still, although Viesturs is the 12th man to climb all of the 8,000-meter giants, according to www.adventurestats.com, he is only the sixth man to climb all of them without supplemental oxygen. And he has answered the charge that dogs some 8,000-meter peak baggers by refusing to count secondary summits; he returned to both Broad Peak and Shishapangma after previously climbing to the summit area of each in order to ensure that he reached the true highest point...'
...............
Andrew Lock will soon follow with the first Aussie-all-14 ...
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14-May-2005 12:49:05 PM
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Can everyone please agitate Mike for the Carrrigan interview , please ...
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14-May-2005 1:37:29 PM
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ShinToe Warrior
13/05/2005
>Tim McCartney-Snape has already done sea level to Everest summit. Not sure if >anyone could be arsed starting at the red sea or where-ever...
Timz 1990 ascent started at the Bay of Bengal, on a lovely little beach, from whence he collected some cute sea-shells to take to the summit ; quite a as-the-bee-flyz route was required to get to base camp due to geo-political-jew-ris-dick-shunz ...very noble concept-journey to be sure,to be sure ... HOWEVER ... Göranz ascent is probably justa beezdik better ...
'...2002 ... Swedish adventurer Göran Kropp was killed ... when he fell while rock climbing. Kropp is best known for riding his bicycle from Sweden to Mount Everest, climbing it solo and unsupported, and then riding back home...'
Crossing the Volga river at Volgograd (nee Stalingrad) probably counts as near-enuf to sea-level ...
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16-May-2005 11:41:53 AM
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Just ta whet your appetite some more.
Original pic here.
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16-May-2005 2:37:27 PM
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AndifyacarntmakittoQld ...
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Topic Date User
winter mountaineering!!! ; 11/03/2005; nmonteith :
>Pic below is of Jono Schimdt on typical Blue Lake terrain - photo JohnK
>
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16-May-2005 2:52:57 PM
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Topic Date User
Bouldering in Melbourne Friday, 1 April 2005 , nmonteith :
>Burnley will be finished just in time for winter = 16 hour darkness, pouring rain and 5'C >temps. I can't wait :-(
>This winter will be a real test for Melbourne climbers. Without a good boudlering spot >we will all wither away to pale ghosts i fear...
Pasty-white-bot--bot might become fashionable yet ... hehehe;-)
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16-May-2005 3:50:46 PM
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Tel
16/05/2005
>I have removed the post the were publicly on this thread...
Say wha' ?? ... you ' sound ' like you've just been to the dentist an' goth a vwerwy nmnumb mbouth ... or maybe you need to back-off on the syntax-performance-enhancement-drugz ...
>There is little I can do to retract what was said.... I do aplogise to all
>tel
Tel ya what --- you go and sit on the cyber-naughty-mat until Hexy is convinced you're not a lilly-liver-yellow-belly...
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Something to help you re-focus that confused-little mind of youz, Tel ...
>Black Magic, Crumbly, Sydney:
http://www.mitchleblanc.com/images/rand/05-05-16/black_magic.wmv
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16-May-2005 4:22:15 PM
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BadBrad of the Isles
16/05/2005
'...Well if anyones interested was talking to a sports psyche major at uni toady and she explained that overtraining isnt just about the head game or overtaxing the body. Apparetnly one can be mentally and physically fresh (well feeling fresh) and yet your central nervous system can be impaired (less efficient) in its ability to recruit, send and communicate with various muscle fibres.
Invariably happens that this occurs after performing similar repeated activites/ movements over a short space of time (doesnt give enough time for your wiring to adapt to a higher level of refinement and neuromuscular efficiency) and is compounded by intensity level.
Interestingly she also mentioned that this invariably coincides with increased performance compared to before performance was started to be affected after a break off (provided its not too long) as the CNS reorganises itself to perform activities more efficiently - yaaay!...'
You will also find that a chiropractic-realignment(you can learn to do this to yourself, by yourself...)of the spine will also fine-tune your CNS ... worxwonderz ...
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16-May-2005 7:13:45 PM
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climbau
16/05/2005
'...On 16/05/2005 njd wrote:
>what motivates you to climb?
The fact that I don't have to deal with the general populace that place value on the unimportant things in life. And I love the opportunities that I get to explore, explore the textures and smells and feelings of the rock, nature and myself
> how do you feel before, during and after a climb?
Before: Nervous, yet excited. Will I be able to quiet my mind enough to get to the top, what moves will I learn/discover, am I strong enough and technical enough to get there safely and in good style?
During: I'm either really focused/absorbed to the point where I forget about the rope and the people around me, Or I am really struggling to keep control of the situation - mentally and physically.
After: Dissapointed, bordering on depressed. I hate the drive home (I'd be better off spending the time climbing/sleeping/housework) it is a real anti-climax to the day. If I have had a bad day on the rock (i.e Not won the challenges of the mind) I can be ready to quit and sell my gear. But hey! What the f*** else would I do???
>do you prefer to climb in a gym or in the open? (a place like araps)
Much prefer climbing outdoors, preferrably at the uncrowded places. If I have to line up for a climb, then I go elsewhere. Even if it is some crappy, chossy, mosquito ridden cess pit.
>why?
Because I hate people coming up to me and saying "Hey man, you should be pulling the crux this way...blubbedy dook, blubbedy dah.". Sometimes it is good to have a chat about these things to others, buit not whilst I'm on the climb. Also, people make me excessively nervous - I don't know why...'
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Telz going in(sane) & Climbauz coming out ...
Climbau --- you're really crying/screaming into the void with this one, son ... I strongly believe most of that negativity can be solved with a motor-bike-with-side-car & a dog ...
Luv HEX ...
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16-May-2005 7:17:23 PM
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chris
17/02/2005
>I can't wait until Australian climbing is a Baxter-free zone!
Might not be much longer:O
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