General Climbing Discussion

Author	Havachatwithhexy...
LittleMac 4-Apr-2005 1:01:06 PM	Is Rock Mag the place to do it? With the amount of bullshit that seems to go in there these days (in reference to the ad to story ratio) I have become a sporadic rather then avid reader of this magazine.
HEX 4-Apr-2005 1:07:23 PM	Hmmmm ... interesting times ahead at Wild Publications ... Megan H did the editorial in Wild this time ...
HEX 4-Apr-2005 6:42:25 PM	------------------------------- '...imintheairport-on-a-shitty-pay-computer-that-doesnt-have-a-space-bar....it-wont-let-me-log-onto-chockstone-so-can-you-please-post-an-update-for-me|? just-say-that-terry-sent--LOAD-of-more-v3's&-v4's-and-i-manged-a-send-of-tuppi-master....and-rohan-is-just-being-annoying!....be-back-in-a-couple-days-and-ill-post-the-proper-thing. cheers-mate,, Josh --->well we had to drop off the car at 12noon today butour flight doesnt leave until 5:50am tomorrow so we're stuck in the airport dickin around- at least i found a computer that lets me loginto chockstone and has a functioning space bar!! so far me and terry have been playing hacky sack, poker, hunting the terminal for hotties, talkin to some cool irish dudes who are showing us card tricks that dont work and rollin spliffs in front of the security. we've also been taking bets on what stupidity rohan is up to now...he got bored of doing rows of cartwheels down the terminal until he fell over and has aparently gone off to flirt with cafe waitresses and boulder on the kiddy playsets upstairs. we're gonna set up camp here tonight, but im pretyt low on dosh and these internet things chomp down gold like candy. ill put in a full report for the last couple of days when i get home- only 1 minute 18 seconds left and im broke- and its gonna take a fair bit of typing to try attempt justice to the lastfew amazing days. over and out, JC...' ......................... Classic short-story !! ... wonder if security will accept rohan's explaination that the white-stuff in the bag is "...just chalk, offisirrr !! " ... ---------------------------------
HEX 4-Apr-2005 6:43:35 PM	------------------------------ Phil Box 4/04/2005 >From the pics I`ve seen there would be no danger of any of them tripping over the >edge... The summit of Everest is the ' table-top ' , jutting-out at the right-side of pic ... The Kangshung Glacier is ( 'almost' ) directly below ... some 10,000ft ...Mick Burke probably took the biggest whipper in climbing history, when he stepped thru the summit-ridge-cornice, in 1975 ... ........................ The largest face/wall in the world ( above sea level...) is the 13,000ft South Face of Nanga Parbat (Reinhold&Gunter Messner, 1970 )... ------------------------------
HEX 4-Apr-2005 7:20:24 PM	--------------------------------- phil_nev : >According to www.8a.nu, Lee cossey has repeated grey area (33). >Nice one Lee. ................... >050402 Grey Area Diamond Falls awesome 2 moves ** .................. '...awesome 2 moves ...' ?? --- is that all thats left ?? --- whatz Ben been up to now !!:P ------------------------------
HEX 4-Apr-2005 7:24:56 PM	--------------------------------- LittleMac 4/04/2005 >So the notorious death block has finally gone. Many a time I have looked at the bloc >and thought, just a little shove........... Glad to hear that it wasn't a deliberate act, but >am also glad to hear that it is gone. >Good to hear that you and everyone else at the cliff survived the incident. ................................. Dennis Kemp / Birdman of Alkatraz, Memorial Post ... ................................
HEX 4-Apr-2005 7:48:59 PM	--------------------------------- alrob 4/04/2005 '...nah, i think its good. its easing me into the shock of adult life, as i leave the teenage world of boozing, chicks, loud music and school behind, for less boozing, wishing for more chicks, but still loud music, however its in my car as i drive off to work at 6:45 5-6 days a week......i even vaguely remember talking about giving this 'climbing caper' up not so long ago......but i think i came too not long after, and began going through those crux moves on diazapam......all was better for a while...' A very poignant-piece indeed, Alrob ! ... very Miklesque ... itz interesting to see that the post-Kim-Carrigan-generation is also ( potentially ) becoming lost in ' reality ' ... -----------------------------------------
HEX 4-Apr-2005 8:39:24 PM	--------------------------------- jcp 4/04/2005 >also check out www.udini.com...the last photo on the page (the one of cragieburn hut >with the 10.5 fisheye) has me rohan and terry in the pic! yay we're famous!! see ya >later all!!!!! love ya... Yeah, right --- and I can just make-out Elvis Presley lurking in the corner next to youz ... or is that our intrepid-jet-setting Damey ... Damos 4/04/2005 >Well, well, well, >I sneak away for a cross Tasman climbing raid and... --------------------------------
HEX 4-Apr-2005 9:11:10 PM	>and... ...and we wish you'd post more often, Damey ! We know you lost the plot posing as Bourge ... But you really have so much to offer, now that the French-dude has been confined to the mourge... We really miss your advice about sheilaz, & short-stories soaked in endorphins ... The new-generation are arriving, but Sabu,Steph & LittleMac are raw-little-cyber-orphanz... Your guidance is needed ! I'm trying my best ... to fill the void where our wisdomz collided ! But itz getting much harder, to live where our cyber-luv departed ... Oooooohhhh Damey !!! I don't post this lightly or in jest ... Luv HEX :-((( ----------------------------
HEX 5-Apr-2005 4:59:31 PM	<--- well, maybe just a little bit ....................................hehehe ! ------------------------------------- Monday, April 4, 2005 by Jon Nermut >3rd Ascent of the Great Flake, Frenchmans >Garn Cooper and Gerry Narcowicz have done the Great Flake at Frenchmans, >possibly only the 3rd ascent. The crux (22) was the 10' roof but Gerry said most of it >was over 18 with not so good protection and they took 12 hours, which is quite a while for such >an experienced crew. Must be quite an outing. He said it was a great climb... Ist Ascent : Kim Carrigan & Evelyn Lees (USA) , circa 1982 2nd Ascent : Phil Bigg etal --- had an epic in the rain ..., circa 1986 There's an excellent TR , by Kim, somewhere in da mags ... apparently one of his most satisfying routes ever ... & take at least 10 tube chocks with ya ... ...& a parachute --- the East Face (which finishes right at the summit) was BASE jumped in the 1990s ... if you don't manage to land on the heli-pad next to the hut, you will probably find your self shishkabobbed on a celery-top-pine:D -------------------------------------
HEX 5-Apr-2005 6:20:59 PM	--------------------------------- Little Mac : >many of his routes involved practical solos. often people wouldn't (or couldn't) follow >his routes so he simply didn't place much (or any) gear. And some of the routes were >wasily protected as well (ie Thunder Crack)... Blogger Josh Janes on www.Camp4 : >Yesterday I did a 5.10- called "Thundercrack," an incredible overhanging line that was >a long standing aid route until the young american Henry Barber showed up at >Arapiles: In front of a crowd of onlookers he free climbed through the crux placing a >lone runner around a horn for protection, then asked the crowd if anyone wanted to >second the climb. When no one stepped forward he casually kicked the runner loose >and effectively soloed to the top... I wish I had been there to watch the expressions on >the Aussie's faces... ........................ :O :D :-) :-( :-/ :-{} ;-) ......................... :~( cheeky yank with broken nose .............hehehe ! ------------------------------
HEX 5-Apr-2005 9:18:32 PM	------------------------------- mic 4/04/2005 >The boomerang will definitely be a challenge. I hope these guys have considered that >helicopters can't fly over an elevation of low to mid 6000 mtrs. Surely the lack of air & >lift would make it difficult if not impossible for a boomerang to fly at all ???? On daze like this, the jet-stream-winds would probably have ya boomarang carried all the way to Bay-jing ! ... An SBS doco recently showed migratory geese using these high altitude winds to speed-up their journey --- BBBBBRRRRRRrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr !!! ................................ Check this out ... the shadow of Mount Everest at dawn ... luuuuvly ... photo:Ed Viesturs ------------------------------------------------
HEX 5-Apr-2005 9:53:16 PM	------------------------------- Topic Date User greatest OZ climber. Tuesday, 5 April 2005, swissCRACKERS : >i was tryin to think you know.... >i was thinking who is the greatest OZy climber of all time?¿ >mikl? kimy?.anyone?¿ >all time greatest you know. i rkon mikl is up there thats forsure. mikl law 5/04/2005 >Now what about the belay at the end of the traverse. I didn't like the rattly jigsaw that >everyone uses and put gear in around the arete (almost in Euridice). Am I being >paranoid? No Mikl --- you're not being paranoid ... but fretting about the inz'n'outz of Gr12z at Arapiles certainly putz you at risk of scatching yourself off the greatest-Ozy-climber-list ... ... has Mikl even climbed Ozy ? :P ---------------------------------------
HEX 6-Apr-2005 11:51:49 AM	------------------------------ dalai 6/04/2005 >On 6/04/2005 BA wrote: >>It involves Dick Smith ... It will >>be interesting to see how he got approval, maybe being 'famous' is part >>of the criteria for a permit. >or money? Yes, I'm sure the authorities would find his money very Temptin ... --------------------------------
dalai 6-Apr-2005 12:09:16 PM	Amazing how easily money can cut through red tape...
HEX 6-Apr-2005 1:44:19 PM	------------------------ '...Thirteen-year-old Matt Fultz has redpointed Black Out (5.14a) in Logan Canyon, Utah. The Nampa, Idaho, student worked on the route for four days over his spring break before sending it on March 31, about a month and a half before his 14th birthday. Fultz had previously redpointed Monstermagnet (5.13d) at Leslie Gulch, Oregon. Last year, he won the USA Climbing Nationals in the 12-13 age group. Coloradan Daniel Woods was the first American to climb 5.14 before his 14th birthday. But the world standard setter for youthful redpointing is undoubtedly Adam Ondra, the Czech who climbed 5.14b before turning 12...' The future of climbing ? ... short, over-hung climbing walls at day-care-centres ... using the sand-pits for nice-soft-landings ... and also to soak-up all the excitement-driven pooz'n'weez ... -----------------------------
dalai 6-Apr-2005 1:55:03 PM	Then there is also David Lama (no relation) who has become the youngest member of the exclusive "8b+-onsight"-club by onsighting Bastilla at Misja Pec, Slovenia. David also managed to redpoint two 8c's. David is only 14 also.. as reported on 8a.nu As to climbing walls in day care. The kindergarten across from the campsite in Apt, France had Entreprise holds bolted onto an angled retaining wall and a solid sculptured limestone block in the play area. Come to think of it many schools both primary and secondary had a wall in France. Even the secondary college in Milley La Foret (in the middle of Fontainebleau) has a wall!!
HEX 6-Apr-2005 1:55:35 PM	Strewth !...maybe they can have even more fun by putting Sherbet-powder in their chalk-bags:-) --------------------------------- M8iswhereitsat 6/04/2005 >Re using dirt instead of chalk. There is probably quite a 'grain' of truth to this. I have >found whenever I end up climbing a chossy route and get dirty fingers as a result, that >my need for chalk is correspondingly less. >Maybe a suitable substitute exists. Sawdust perhaps? >Another thought for those who have started 'designer' threads; ... climbing >trousers/shorts with sewn in panels of towling or corduroy?... Interesting ideaz ... just make sure the sawdust isn't derived from MDF/MDS/treated-pine, etc ... Towling panels ? --- yeah I like this... as long as the colour is the same as the trousers... abit gay otherwise...maybe attach with 4corner velcro tabs for easy-regular-cleaning ...but anyway, I think Edward Frillypants has already got the patent on this..............................snigger... -------------------------------------
HEX 6-Apr-2005 2:24:09 PM	--------------------------- nmonteith 6/04/2005 >My advice - don't EVER joke with a airport security officer about ANYTHING. Your one >joke could get the entire airport shut down lickity split... Yes, very true ... and on that authoritarian note, itz time to vanish from this ' designer thread ' ............... hehehe ... BUMP*********************************************** **************************************************************************************** **************************************************************************************** ****************************************************************************************
Tel 6-Apr-2005 2:31:02 PM	On 6/04/2005 HEX wrote: >Strewth !...maybe they can have even more fun by putting Sherbet-powder >in their chalk-bags:-) >--------------------------------- ;-)

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