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Training grip strength

marvinjns

4-Sep-2023
6:45:04 PM

Just got off a 2 hr sesh yesterday, I'm a relatively new climbing enjoyer. Any suggestions on how to improve my grip strength? I heard there are a few drill-free products that you can mount onto your door to do precisely that, any recommended brands in mind? thanks in advance

E. Wells

5-Sep-2023
4:56:57 PM

If you have nothing to hang a fingerboard from (awesome woodies as an example of a brand) you can make or purchase something and attach it to a heavy weight on the ground. If your doorway has an 18mm architrave you could borrow a bradding gun and add a few extra nails then hang off that. Just put a little putty over holes , sand it back and paint it and your landlord would never know. The strength is in the hand resisting opening, rather than actually any applied grip and typically comes with time so tbh just keep having sessions and allow a few years to let your tendons adapt.

phillipivan

5-Sep-2023
5:51:55 PM

https://www.druidholds.com/product/door-frame-hanger/3?cp=true&sa=true&sbp=false&q=false

Door frame hanger, made in Melbourne.

dan_b

5-Sep-2023
5:54:51 PM

On 4-Sep-2023 marvinjns wrote:
>Just got off a 2 hr sesh yesterday, I'm a relatively new climbing enjoyer.
>Any suggestions on how to improve my grip strength? I heard there are a
>few drill-free products that you can mount onto your door to do precisely
>that, any recommended brands in mind? thanks in advance

Can you make the gym 2-3 times a week? Just do that for a few years

One Day Hero

6-Sep-2023
10:42:39 AM

On 5-Sep-2023 dan_b wrote:
>Can you make the gym 2-3 times a week? Just do that for >a few years

Can you quit your job, abandon your significant other, go live in the dirt and climb rocks 5 days a week? Just do that for a few years.

dan_b

6-Sep-2023
11:10:38 AM

Preferable, but he said he wants to get strong

One Day Hero

6-Sep-2023
6:43:21 PM

On 6-Sep-2023 dan_b wrote:
>Preferable, but he said he wants to get strong

Well yeah, but the dude has been climbing for five minutes and thinks that strong and good are the same thing.

E. Wells

7-Sep-2023
12:26:58 PM

Despite the use of the word enjoyment, Isnt this just a set up for that droid thing? Cool craftsmanship there. Prefer an architrave myself but credit where its due that thing looks wild.

IdratherbeclimbingM9

8-Sep-2023
1:02:06 PM

On 6-Sep-2023 One Day Hero wrote:
>On 6-Sep-2023 dan_b wrote:
>>Preferable, but he said he wants to get strong
>
>Well yeah, but the dude has been climbing for five minutes and thinks
>that strong and good are the same thing.

Are you saying that they’re not?
Bugga. I’ve been doing it wrong all these years!
Heh, heh, heh.
;-)

As a result of my recent experience I’ve reevaluated some of my ideology and come to the conclusion that yes technique is hugely important and will get you up many things, but when it absolutely comes down to it then there is no substitute for strength.

No matter how much knowledge, technique and attitude one has, if the body says no, then it’s not going to happen!

Caveat: I haven’t and will never climb as hard as you, but have managed to get to some outrageous places anyway despite my lack of hard climber ability.
:-)

PS; since my onset of AML, I haven’t got back on rock for a number of reasons, chiefly my lack of immunity and unwillingness to risk getting cuts/scratches that will lead to infections in my case, though the time is coming when I can once again abuse my skin by fondling rock.

One Day Hero

8-Sep-2023
8:41:30 PM

On 8-Sep-2023 IdratherbeclimbingM9 wrote:
>As a result of my recent experience I’ve reevaluated some of my ideology
>and come to the conclusion that yes technique is hugely important and will
>get you up many things, but when it absolutely comes down to it then there
>is no substitute for strength.
>
I think Tony Yaniro had the best version of that concept; "Without sufficient power there will be nothing to endure"

But the flip side is that if power is the only thing you have, you'll waste it all long before you arrive at the part of the climb where it might be useful.

In my experience, most young dudes get pretty strong within the first two years of their climbing and are then held back by poor technique and lack of power endurance for as long as it takes to realise more power isn't going to solve everything. Some people never learn. Obviously there are outliers for whom this isn't true.

PeterW

9-Sep-2023
9:10:49 AM

I always liked Peter Treby's comment from nearly 50 years ago.

"Technique is having enough strength to hang around and work out the moves."

ajfclark

14-Sep-2023
9:44:57 AM

On 6-Sep-2023 One Day Hero wrote:
>Can you quit your job, abandon your significant other, go live in the dirt and climb rocks 5 days a week? Just do that for a few years.

Or move to the Wimmera and give up climbing?

There are 12 messages in this topic.