Chockstone Forum

      Sponsored By
      ROCK
   HARDWARE

Chockstone Photography

Australian Landscape Prints

Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

Author

Questions regarding routes, bolt and grades.

Jayford4321

23-Mar-2018
9:41:08 PM

On 23-Mar-2018 potex wrote:
>>Carrot bolts requiring the placing of a bolt-plate
>>should only be replaced with a glue in hangerless machine bolt.
>>
>>Source: VCC bolting policy found at https://vicclimb.org.au/downloads/
>>
>>Harvey
>
>What a retarded policy. Screw what the VCC says if the carrot is rusted
>and dangerous replace it with modern hardware like a ring bolt or fixed
>hanger. This hat tipping to "tradition" is rediculous.

On 18-Mar-2018 Douglas H wrote:
>Carrot bolts requiring the placing of a bolt-plate
>should only be replaced with a glue in hangerless machine bolt, except
>in situations where a hangerless bolt may be unsafe such as on an overhang
>or at a tenuous clip with a dangerous fall
>
>Source: VCC bolting policy found at https://vicclimb.org.au/downloads/
>
>Harvey

Oh yay! A bolting thread!

Y didnt U quote the rest of it potex?

post eddy; Ay potex , Y U delete Ur answer post bout tha rest being noise?


IdratherbeclimbingM9

25-Mar-2018
1:25:35 PM

Posted some photos as an update to my first page post on this thread...

bigchris; Check out your recent Typhon in background of a Caligula shot; plus have a look at Emperor (tagged as route 3, ie the huge chimney-slot centre-left on the North Wall where the 'dots' go in and exit higher)... If you want to repeat history, then it was the first route to ascend the main part of the North Wall, after Comet Ramp, ... which ended up being a recce for doing it.


Dane

25-Mar-2018
6:05:13 PM

>What a retarded policy. Screw what the VCC says if the carrot is rusted
>and dangerous replace it with modern hardware like a ring bolt or fixed
>hanger. This hat tipping to "tradition" is rediculous.

Oh grow a spine.
The dumbing down of climbing to entertain the gym bunnies is getting ridiculous. Leave us some fun off-widths and thrutches with carrots. Not everything needs to be an overbolted clip up.
If the bolts were placed on lead, then you can balance for the few seconds it takes to fit a hanger, otherwise you have no place on the route in the first place.


bigchris

25-Mar-2018
6:18:29 PM

On 25-Mar-2018 IdratherbeclimbingM9 wrote:
>Posted some photos as an update to my first page post on this thread...
>
>bigchris; Check out your recent Typhon in background of a Caligula shot;

That's a super cool.picture!

>plus have a look at Emperor (tagged as route 3, ie the huge chimney-slot
>centre-left on the North Wall where the 'dots' go in and exit higher)...
>If you want to repeat history, then it was the first route to ascend the
>main part of the North Wall, after Comet Ramp, ... which ended up being
>a recce for doing it.

What's a recce?

dalai

25-Mar-2018
7:30:18 PM

On 25-Mar-2018 bigchris wrote:
>What's a recce?

It is the informal for reconnaissance.


Duang Daunk

26-Mar-2018
8:13:54 AM

Pretty dapper climbing clobber and a suave expression there BA bro. Definitely a contender for ousting the pre-war mikl in the knitted vest shot put up recently.
How's your left ankle these days?

27-Mar-2018
7:38:53 AM

On 26-Mar-2018 Duang Daunk wrote:

>Pretty dapper climbing clobber and a suave expression there BA bro. Definitely
>a contender for ousting the pre-war mikl in the knitted vest shot put up
>recently.

The photo was taken in the pre-plastic clothing era where wool was about the only thing that could keep you warm when it was wet.

>How's your left ankle these days?

The ankle is fine but the top of my right is buggered (after breaking a few years back).

A further thought about those 2 bolts, the bottom bolt was probably placed so we could place the top one


bigchris

27-Mar-2018
12:10:53 PM

>A further thought about those 2 bolts, the bottom bolt
>was probably placed so we could place the top one

Yep, thats what it appears! I shall sort it out this weekend! :)


IdratherbeclimbingM9

28-Mar-2018
12:31:35 PM

On 27-Mar-2018 bigchris wrote re BA comment;
>>A further thought about those 2 bolts, the bottom bolt
>>was probably placed so we could place the top one
>
>Yep, thats what it appears! I shall sort it out this weekend! :)

Re “Sort it out”...
How exactly?

BA as first ascentionist has suggested replacing the aiding bolts, particularly the top one that might also be used as pro, however it seems from your comments that it won’t do much to keep a climber off the deck and further that you feel it interferes with free-climbing it, at least in the manner that you repeated it.

At risk of being contentious, I suggest that if they are aid bolts leave them alone, as it’s likely that they still meet that need!
Anything further amounts to a retrobolt, considering the style it was put up, subsequently freed, and repeated ad infinitum for a long period till thrutching fell out of vogue.

When the wheel turns full circle those that want an original experience (including you currently?), won’t thank you if you sanitise it.

And to hark back to your original question re tatt; yes remove it as kieranl suggested.

potex wrote:
>This hat tipping to "tradition" is rediculous.

Why?


gordoste

28-Mar-2018
1:25:16 PM

potex wrote:
>This hat tipping to "tradition" is rediculous.

If you are truly desperate for a bolted offwidth, I really don't think anyone would bother going to the effort of chopping them if you did a half-decent job and stayed away from popular routes. But keep in mind it would make you look pretty lame if you need ring bolts to do what was done 50 years ago in hiking boots and flannel.

If you are serious that tradition is ridiculous, have a think about whether bolting Wizard Of Ice or Electra would be sensible and then pull your head in.

Jayford4321

28-Mar-2018
5:58:32 PM

On 28-Mar-2018 gordoste wrote:
>If you are truly desperate for a bolted offwidth, I really don't think
>anyone would bother going to the effort of chopping them if you did a half-decent
>job and stayed away from popular routes.

i dunno bout that , Bcos odius (a high member of Dangerouser Cliffs Australia) , is pretty unpredictable.
Him or his peeps have chopped stuff at Buff B4 an popular izn't a criteria for wrecktifying retros . . .


bigchris

28-Mar-2018
6:49:16 PM

>When the wheel turns full circle those that want an original experience
>(including you currently?), won’t thank you if you sanitise it.

So I'm gonna chop the two aid bolts, put one brand new fixed hanger in place. I've freed the whole climb already. I'm just doing a service at my cost for the betterment of the rock climbing community.

The bottom section where the bolts are located, is unprotected, hence the aid bolts. I'll chop the rusty shit bolts that are 50+ years old. I'll only replace the top one as that's all is needed to keep you off of the deck with an attentive belayer. It doesn't need to be ever aided again, it's an easy section to free (for me).

I won't place any bolts in the chimney/offwidth as there is none in their to replace and I don't retro bolt climbs. BA has previously stated that the first bolt was only placed so they could get the second one in.

I feel as if you have the wrong idea about me Rod! :D :D

If people are gonna whinge, I just won't do it, or ill do it next time and won't tell anyone. Once again, a nice shiny bolt may encourage someone else to climb it, rather than no one ever again.


rodw

29-Mar-2018
3:57:46 AM

On 28-Mar-2018 bigchris wrote:
>If people are gonna whinge, I just won't do it, or ill do it next time
>and won't tell anyone.

Once you get a consensus can we also fly you over Palestine and Israel so you can get one there too....which IMHO is a much easier job than getting one on here.

mikllaw

29-Mar-2018
5:33:28 AM

Yes, doing new routes is less contentious. There should be plenty of roof offwidth cracks at Buffalo with feet-first-fury action. optional bolts, chockstones, or big $ pro


ajfclark

29-Mar-2018
5:33:50 AM

On 29-Mar-2018 rodw wrote:
>>Once you get a consensus can we also fly you over Palestine and Israel so you can get one there too....which IMHO is a much easier job than getting one on here.

The only thing two climbers can agree on is that a third is doing it wrong?


gordoste

29-Mar-2018
7:06:05 AM

On 28-Mar-2018 gnaguts wrote:
>i dunno bout that , Bcos odius (a high member of Dangerouser Cliffs Australia)
>, is pretty unpredictable.
>Him or his peeps have chopped stuff at Buff B4 an popular izn't a criteria
>for wrecktifying retros . . .

If they'd actually been to Buffalo and climbed some of these style of routes they'd pretty soon realise that bolting easy offwidths is a huge waste of time. They've obviously got some kind of chip on their shoulder and want to challenge any type of authority, even when "tradition" is really just common sense.


Miguel75

29-Mar-2018
7:09:16 AM

On 29-Mar-2018 rodw wrote:
>On 28-Mar-2018 bigchris wrote:
>>If people are gonna whinge, I just won't do it, or ill do it next time
>>and won't tell anyone.
>
>Once you get a consensus can we also fly you over Palestine and Israel
>so you can get one there too....which IMHO is a much easier job than getting
>one on here.

Haha, Philly will get it sorted;)


Macciza

29-Mar-2018
8:16:41 AM

What a retarded comment .. Screw what potex says ... if it was a carrot replace it with a glue-in hangerless bolt (it is Buffalo after all) ... This arse flapping to ‘modernity’ is ridiculous, mediocre and a just a little plain pathetic imho...

The Rock Robster

29-Mar-2018
11:32:58 AM

On 29-Mar-2018 ajfclark wrote:
>The only thing two climbers can agree on is that a third is doing it wrong?

I disagree.

On-topic though - replace the bolts. Personally I'd rather you replace them with hangerless glue-ins because we're Australians, not cowards, but whatever. First ascentionist has the last say though, not you. If they decide not to rebolt, and you go up and do it anyway, I will buy a grinder just to chop them myself if I have to.

Oh and make sure to chop the old carrots if rebolting is the agreed upon course of action, and patch the holes a bit.

kieranl

29-Mar-2018
1:21:50 PM

On 29-Mar-2018 The Rock Robster wrote:
>
>On-topic though - replace the bolts. Personally I'd rather you replace
>them with hangerless glue-ins because we're Australians, not cowards, but
>whatever. First ascentionist has the last say though, not you. If they
>decide not to rebolt, and you go up and do it anyway, I will buy a grinder
>just to chop them myself if I have to.
>

This is getting ridiculous. Threatening to chop the replacement of a crappy old carrot? Did you read earlier in the thread where BA (from the FA) said "Since they were aid bolts maybe just replace one of them with something bomber to use as pro." ? Why do people feel the need to blow something up out of all proportion?

There are 47 messages in this topic.